97 2500 missfire during right turns?!?
#11
09-05-2012, 09:07 PM
Thank you for the link, I will check it out.
In regards to the plug issue... The part that has be confused is the fact that I have been running Autolite Plats for almost a year, and just about a month or two ago is when this misfire thing started... I just dont see how its related to the plugs... I will give it a shot when I have a couple spare bucks just to rule it out.
I have also ruled out the O2 sensors... disconnected them and still no change in the running / performance of the truck... Not sure if that is the best way to check them. I was told that if they are causing my truck to run too rich or lean the truck could either pre det or foul and receive no det at all.
Thanks for the info... Also, in regards to the computer, some mechanic told me that a faulty driver could cause this too... Can the computer be the problem?
In regards to the plug issue... The part that has be confused is the fact that I have been running Autolite Plats for almost a year, and just about a month or two ago is when this misfire thing started... I just dont see how its related to the plugs... I will give it a shot when I have a couple spare bucks just to rule it out.
I have also ruled out the O2 sensors... disconnected them and still no change in the running / performance of the truck... Not sure if that is the best way to check them. I was told that if they are causing my truck to run too rich or lean the truck could either pre det or foul and receive no det at all.
Thanks for the info... Also, in regards to the computer, some mechanic told me that a faulty driver could cause this too... Can the computer be the problem?
#12
09-07-2012, 06:24 PM
have not performed compression test since the issue is after warmup.
#13
09-07-2012, 06:25 PM
Nah... it's just the nature of bleeding edge problems. It's all dependent upon how tolerances stack together, really. The three hole quite often is alone in big dislike of plugs, and five and seven which most often cross-fire with bad routing. But at least there's some easily discernible logic in the five/seven cross fire.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...lug-wires.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...lug-wires.html
Performed the TSB, no change...
#14
09-07-2012, 06:26 PM
#15
09-08-2012, 03:23 PM
Disconnected the o2 sensor after warming the truck up and took it for a drive. No change.... Unfortunately the pohdunk town I live in doesnt rent Compression test kits nor have them in stock, so im sort of screwed until I can get it done...
I may have my quad sold monday so I will be able to get some stuff done soon I hope, I really need this damn truck running right!!
I may have my quad sold monday so I will be able to get some stuff done soon I hope, I really need this damn truck running right!!
#16
09-08-2012, 05:22 PM
Grand Champion
Since the compression test is on hold for the moment, I'd think it a good time to check the distributor rotor for wobble. It happens when a bushing the distributor shaft rides in gets worn. It can be somewhat difficult to detect unless it's really very far gone.
It's not uncommon (but isn't universal), when that bushing is shot, to see evidence inside the cap. The terminals opposite the miss will often be scored where the rotor drags, and the rotor will show signs of having drug across the terminals, too. If that scoring is in evidence you don't need to know anything else. If it isn't, then remove all of the spark plugs, the coil primary wires, and the distributor cap and spin the engine with the starter. If no wobble is obvious, then bump the engine a bit at a time, and at each point where it stops muscle the rotor by hand, pushing it outward at several compass points, to detect play in it. Ideally there will be no detectable play at all, though a few thousandths probably won't cause a miss.
Some erosion of the rotor and terminals is normal, since they see electrical arcing during normal operation because that's their purpose, but if you see scoring from mechanical contact on terminals as new as those you've got, it's a problem.
It's a pain in the backside with the location of our distributors to do these checks, but it's free and something that can be done while waiting on test equipment. What makes me suspect rotor wobble is that your problem started with a misfire on #4 that moved to firing-order adjacent #3 when you changed out the cap and rotor, and perhaps most importantly, the engine ordinarily doesn't know or care whether you're turning right, or left, or going straight. Though the distributor might be just fine, the more common causes of screwball misses have been eliminated by getting the most bestest plugs and proper wire routing in place.
It's not uncommon (but isn't universal), when that bushing is shot, to see evidence inside the cap. The terminals opposite the miss will often be scored where the rotor drags, and the rotor will show signs of having drug across the terminals, too. If that scoring is in evidence you don't need to know anything else. If it isn't, then remove all of the spark plugs, the coil primary wires, and the distributor cap and spin the engine with the starter. If no wobble is obvious, then bump the engine a bit at a time, and at each point where it stops muscle the rotor by hand, pushing it outward at several compass points, to detect play in it. Ideally there will be no detectable play at all, though a few thousandths probably won't cause a miss.
Some erosion of the rotor and terminals is normal, since they see electrical arcing during normal operation because that's their purpose, but if you see scoring from mechanical contact on terminals as new as those you've got, it's a problem.
It's a pain in the backside with the location of our distributors to do these checks, but it's free and something that can be done while waiting on test equipment. What makes me suspect rotor wobble is that your problem started with a misfire on #4 that moved to firing-order adjacent #3 when you changed out the cap and rotor, and perhaps most importantly, the engine ordinarily doesn't know or care whether you're turning right, or left, or going straight. Though the distributor might be just fine, the more common causes of screwball misses have been eliminated by getting the most bestest plugs and proper wire routing in place.
#17
09-08-2012, 07:01 PM
Since the compression test is on hold for the moment, I'd think it a good time to check the distributor rotor for wobble. It happens when a bushing the distributor shaft rides in gets worn. It can be somewhat difficult to detect unless it's really very far gone.
It's not uncommon (but isn't universal), when that bushing is shot, to see evidence inside the cap. The terminals opposite the miss will often be scored where the rotor drags, and the rotor will show signs of having drug across the terminals, too. If that scoring is in evidence you don't need to know anything else. If it isn't, then remove all of the spark plugs, the coil primary wires, and the distributor cap and spin the engine with the starter. If no wobble is obvious, then bump the engine a bit at a time, and at each point where it stops muscle the rotor by hand, pushing it outward at several compass points, to detect play in it. Ideally there will be no detectable play at all, though a few thousandths probably won't cause a miss.
Some erosion of the rotor and terminals is normal, since they see electrical arcing during normal operation because that's their purpose, but if you see scoring from mechanical contact on terminals as new as those you've got, it's a problem.
It's a pain in the backside with the location of our distributors to do these checks, but it's free and something that can be done while waiting on test equipment. What makes me suspect rotor wobble is that your problem started with a misfire on #4 that moved to firing-order adjacent #3 when you changed out the cap and rotor, and perhaps most importantly, the engine ordinarily doesn't know or care whether you're turning right, or left, or going straight. Though the distributor might be just fine, the more common causes of screwball misses have been eliminated by getting the most bestest plugs and proper wire routing in place.
It's not uncommon (but isn't universal), when that bushing is shot, to see evidence inside the cap. The terminals opposite the miss will often be scored where the rotor drags, and the rotor will show signs of having drug across the terminals, too. If that scoring is in evidence you don't need to know anything else. If it isn't, then remove all of the spark plugs, the coil primary wires, and the distributor cap and spin the engine with the starter. If no wobble is obvious, then bump the engine a bit at a time, and at each point where it stops muscle the rotor by hand, pushing it outward at several compass points, to detect play in it. Ideally there will be no detectable play at all, though a few thousandths probably won't cause a miss.
Some erosion of the rotor and terminals is normal, since they see electrical arcing during normal operation because that's their purpose, but if you see scoring from mechanical contact on terminals as new as those you've got, it's a problem.
It's a pain in the backside with the location of our distributors to do these checks, but it's free and something that can be done while waiting on test equipment. What makes me suspect rotor wobble is that your problem started with a misfire on #4 that moved to firing-order adjacent #3 when you changed out the cap and rotor, and perhaps most importantly, the engine ordinarily doesn't know or care whether you're turning right, or left, or going straight. Though the distributor might be just fine, the more common causes of screwball misses have been eliminated by getting the most bestest plugs and proper wire routing in place.
#18
09-12-2012, 10:58 PM
I did notice that on the cyl 3 spark plug it seemed to have a little oil on it? also, the porcelin seemed to have dark spots which looked like oil stains. it looked nothing like the others. The others were white and clean.
thanks for your time.
#20
09-12-2012, 11:10 PM
Grand Champion
If your PCV valve is on that bank, then it's the most likely culprit. If the valve's not on that side the more expensive stuff is suspect.