abs and brake light - abs control module ?
Well, no need for Step 8, "shuttling" the valve got the ABS light off. The BRAKE light is still on though. Fluid looks borderline low. Don't have any. Gotta put rear axle seals in it this afternoon, I think. The backside of the tire is grimy, didn't bother feeling it, figure it out when I get the tire loose.
Thanks to this site and it's members again!
Thanks to this site and it's members again!
Well, no need for Step 8, "shuttling" the valve got the ABS light off. The BRAKE light is still on though. Fluid looks borderline low. Don't have any. Gotta put rear axle seals in it this afternoon, I think. The backside of the tire is grimy, didn't bother feeling it, figure it out when I get the tire loose.
Thanks to this site and it's members again!
Thanks to this site and it's members again!
I finally figured out my ABS/Brake light. I followed the service manual troubleshooting and this is what determined the problem:
RWAL DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES—TEST 6
RWAL DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES—TEST 6
This procedure starts with both the brake warning lamp illuminated and ABS warning lamp illuminated and RWAL diagnostics cannot be performed.
If you are able to retrieve a DTC from the CAB's memory, then perform RWAL DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES
TEST 1.
1
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. Disconnect the 14-way RWAL CAB connector.
Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
- Is the brake warning lamp illuminated?
YES
Perform step
2
NO
Perform step 8.
Step 2
Inspect the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.Is the fluid level correct?
YES
Perform step
3.
NO
Find and repair cause of leakage then perform the Verification Test.
Step 3
• Is the vehicle equipped with a diesel engine?
YES
Perform step 5.
NO
Perform step 4.
Step 4
Disconnect the harness connector from the differential pressure switchIs the brake warning lamp still illuminated?
YES
Repair the short to ground for the brake warning lamp circuit and perform the
Verification Test.
NO
The pressure differential switch has shuttled. Check the
brake system for air in the hydraulic circuit or possible mechanical
damage. Repair as necessary and then perform the Verification Test.
I'll stop pasting there because that is where I found the trouble.
I took the little switch out from the pressure differential block (connected to the master cylinder) and moved the shuttle 'thing' that was grounding the switch and making the light come on. I moved the The shuttle 'thing' with a dental pick. I think there is an easier way but it worked for me.
I'm happy that those darn lights are finally off.
Hope this helps.If you are able to retrieve a DTC from the CAB's memory, then perform RWAL DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES
TEST 1.
1
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. Disconnect the 14-way RWAL CAB connector.
Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
- Is the brake warning lamp illuminated?
YES
Perform step
2
NO
Perform step 8.
Step 2
Inspect the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.Is the fluid level correct?
YES
Perform step
3.
NO
Find and repair cause of leakage then perform the Verification Test.
Step 3
• Is the vehicle equipped with a diesel engine?
YES
Perform step 5.
NO
Perform step 4.
Step 4
Disconnect the harness connector from the differential pressure switchIs the brake warning lamp still illuminated?
YES
Repair the short to ground for the brake warning lamp circuit and perform the
Verification Test.
NO
The pressure differential switch has shuttled. Check the
brake system for air in the hydraulic circuit or possible mechanical
damage. Repair as necessary and then perform the Verification Test.
I'll stop pasting there because that is where I found the trouble.
I took the little switch out from the pressure differential block (connected to the master cylinder) and moved the shuttle 'thing' that was grounding the switch and making the light come on. I moved the The shuttle 'thing' with a dental pick. I think there is an easier way but it worked for me.
I'm happy that those darn lights are finally off.
Hello. I bought a 98 Ram 1500 5.9 about 5 months ago. A couple months ago, the ABS and Brake light would stay on when I started the truck after driving it sometimes. Never comes on if it sits overnight on first start. Brakes seem to work fine, new front rotors and pads, backs have a little life left (problem did exist before fronts replaced).
I have read on this and replaced the rear speed abs sensor and cleaned the connections into the abs control module. I tried to have the abs codes checked, but was told due to the age they were unable to read any. Recently had front axle seals replaced and the mechanic did a small amount of looking and thought the abs control module had a relay that was "sticky".
I pulled a module from a 98 Ram (5.2) from local salvage (all they had for Ram in that year) but when comparing the white label values they are different than mine. So, my questions:
1. Are there differt control modules? Maybe a 2 wheel and 4 wheel?
2. If I can find the module with same label, can I simply just unplug my current module and swap them out, leaving battery disconnected for 30 minutes after replacement, or do I need to do more than this? Are there other years of Ram or possibly Dakota or Durango that would use same module?
3. Any other thoughts on what may cause this behavior?
Thanks for any input/advice!
I have read on this and replaced the rear speed abs sensor and cleaned the connections into the abs control module. I tried to have the abs codes checked, but was told due to the age they were unable to read any. Recently had front axle seals replaced and the mechanic did a small amount of looking and thought the abs control module had a relay that was "sticky".
I pulled a module from a 98 Ram (5.2) from local salvage (all they had for Ram in that year) but when comparing the white label values they are different than mine. So, my questions:
1. Are there differt control modules? Maybe a 2 wheel and 4 wheel?
2. If I can find the module with same label, can I simply just unplug my current module and swap them out, leaving battery disconnected for 30 minutes after replacement, or do I need to do more than this? Are there other years of Ram or possibly Dakota or Durango that would use same module?
3. Any other thoughts on what may cause this behavior?
Thanks for any input/advice!
a lot of the break failer has been caused by combination valve and or proportion vavle will set and cut pressure or hold pressures on front or back brakes while driving . seal in real will go bad on axile and calipers also.
I finally figured out my ABS/Brake light. I followed the service manual troubleshooting and this is what determined the problem:
RWAL DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES—TEST 6
RWAL DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES—TEST 6
This procedure starts with both the brake warning
lamp illuminated and ABS warning lamp illuminated and RWAL diagnostics cannot be performed.
If you are able to retrieve a DTC from the CAB's memory, then perform RWAL DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES
TEST 1.
TEST 1.
1
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position.
Disconnect the 14-way RWAL CAB connector.
Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
- Is the brake warning lamp illuminated?
YES
Perform step
Perform step
2
NO
Perform step 8.
Perform step 8.
Step 2
Inspect the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.
Is the fluid level correct?
YES
Perform step
Perform step
3.
NO
Find and repair cause of leakage then perform the Verification Test.
Find and repair cause of leakage then perform the Verification Test.
Step 3
• Is the vehicle equipped with a diesel engine?
YES
Perform step 5.
Perform step 5.
NO
Perform step 4.
Perform step 4.
Step 4
Disconnect the harness connector from the differential pressure switch
Hope this helps.
Is the brake warning lamp still illuminated?
YES
Repair the short to ground for the brake warning lamp circuit and perform the
Verification Test.
Repair the short to ground for the brake warning lamp circuit and perform the
Verification Test.
NO
The pressure differential switch has shuttled. Check the
brake system for air in the hydraulic circuit or possible mechanical
damage. Repair as necessary and then perform the Verification Test.
The pressure differential switch has shuttled. Check the
brake system for air in the hydraulic circuit or possible mechanical
damage. Repair as necessary and then perform the Verification Test.
I'll stop pasting there because that is where I found the trouble.
I took the little switch out from the pressure differential block (connected to the master cylinder) and moved the shuttle 'thing' that was grounding the switch and making the light come on. I moved the The shuttle 'thing' with a dental pick. I think there is an easier way but it worked for me.
I'm happy that those darn lights are finally off.
I took the little switch out from the pressure differential block (connected to the master cylinder) and moved the shuttle 'thing' that was grounding the switch and making the light come on. I moved the The shuttle 'thing' with a dental pick. I think there is an easier way but it worked for me.
I'm happy that those darn lights are finally off.
Hope this helps.
Also, to confirm, should the parking brake be set during this test? I did it with the parking brake on first then off.











