Hello everybody,

I have a small problem with my brakes on my 1995 RAM 1500 5.2L V8.

It does brake, but not as hard as I think it should. My parking brake and rear brakes did not work good. So I replaced met complete rear brakes with new, shoes, hardware kit, adjuster and wheel cylinder. After all replaced, my parking brake is back working and I think the normal brakes are working also.

At the front I replaced my pads with heavy duty ones, caliper overhaul, and greased all points as shown in my manual. we replaced the master cylinder and some brake lines. After all work done we bled the complete system (even more then once).

Now I hoped to be smashed through my front window when braking. But nothing from that. It does have a bit more braking power when braking from a higher speed.
I understand it is a heavier vehicle then a normal car, but I really feel it should brake better.

What can I try more??? All help is appreciated

 

Upgrade your front calipers to the LD 3/4 guys, and quality pads.

Upgrade your rear wheel cylinders (which you just replaced.....) with pieces for a 3/4 chevy of the same year. Both are direct bolt-ons, that dramatically increase braking performance.

 

Thanks for the advise. Do you know where I can buy those?

 

An auto parts store maybe ?

 

My 1995 4 WD, 5.9 L RAM has its ABS and Brake lights on full time. My fluid is low and I noticed a leak from the left rear wheel...would this effect the ABS light being on?

Also, I plan to replace the left wheel (either the line or whatever is causing the leak)...but my experience with the front system, getting the rotor off, started out with hours of banging with a small sledge with no results...then a mechanic friend advised I use the sledge on the edge of the housing just over the axle...it worked first time...

IS THIS the same type of problem to expect with removing the rear housing???

Thanks

Downdraft

 

Yes a leaking brake line can turn on the abs light. To remove the drum housing you need to adjust the shoes inward (away from the drum housing) and then shock the housing (not the backing plate) with a hammer until it is easy enough to pull off. It may be so stuck on they're that you're gonna have to borrow and air hammer/compressor to shock the housing.

But.. If the previous owner recently removed it, it should just slide off once the shoes are moved in.

 

Clean the parts with a wire wheel and use anti-sieze when you put it back together, makes it a lot easier for next time.

 

Thanks for your inputs.
Just wondering...I haven't crawled under to see just what has caused the leakage, but if it is the brake piping to the wheel cylinder, is that a lengthy pipe, and where does it originate?

Also. I'm assuming I will have to bleed the system after replacing parts...???

 

If the fluid is running down your tire, it's probably the wheel cylinder leaking. Best to replace both sides at the same time as they both have the same mileage on them. Only take one side apart at a time so you have one for reference if needed.
If it is the brake line leaking, it's only about 18" long. It runs from a junction block bolted on top of the axle in front of the shock absorber.
And, yes, any time you break the fittings on the brake system you need to bleed them to get any air out that may have gotten in.

 

ARDE...and MATT NICKERSON

Thanks for a perfect description and instructions...you guys should be "put on payroll" by the "forum" given your skills...I purchased ole "Large Marge" when I decided to build a new home for my wife...she has given me good service and I haven't the heart to replace her with a younger one (I'm referring to my RAM, not my wife)...I'm in my 80s and the beauty of a RAM is an ole fart like me can crawl under her easily without a jack when checking for leaks...so I'll stick with her rather than a new one...I use ole "Large Marge" to help me tend to my grape vineyard hauling grape to be turned into wine...here's to you two...

I thank you, and so does the ole gal (i.e. my RAM)

gjm
(downdraft)