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Still no brakes pressure

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  #11  
Old 11-06-2012 | 06:28 PM
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You need to bleed the brakes with the engine off and the booster bled off (a few presses of the pedal will release any vacuum). Once you have a good pedal then you can start it and trouble shoot your booster if needed.
 
  #12  
Old 11-06-2012 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Efrench1183
So, after buying a new brake line going from the front of the truck to the back distribution block i still have no brakes, here is what i am noticing,
when depressing the brakle pedal there is little pressure, at the halfway point there is a skip and then i hear the brake booster spring bounce or release and the pedal continues to the floor with no pressure.
Next while bleeding and it took a long time to do, i had very little fluid coming out of the rear wheel cylinders after they were bled.
i checked the one way valve and it is working properly only allowing air flow one way, and the hose is good shape.
Brake calipers, all lines even the rubber ones, wheels cylinders, and pads and shoes are brand new, even the brale fluid is brand new.
Could it be a bad brake booster?
I'm just trying to help a brother out. And biting my tounge..
IDK guys call my crazy (many do) but here it is word for word from the FSM "The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a a booster problem, first verify the power steering pump is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
*Check the power steering fluid level.
*Check the break fluid level
*Check all power steering hoses and lines for leaks and restrictions".
 
  #13  
Old 11-07-2012 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by It's Me Patt
I'm just trying to help a brother out. And biting my tounge..
IDK guys call my crazy (many do) but here it is word for word from the FSM "The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a a booster problem, first verify the power steering pump is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
*Check the power steering fluid level.
*Check the break fluid level
*Check all power steering hoses and lines for leaks and restrictions".

Sorry bro, that's only if you have an oil burner.
 
  #14  
Old 11-11-2012 | 06:10 PM
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So today I went out and messed around with the brakes, I went out and bought a new brake booster installed it and still have the same problem. Pumping the pedal builds not pressure with truck off, or with the truck on. The pedal still goes right to the floor.

Pulled front tires off and pumps brakes 4 times and held pedal to floor with breaker bar, and I am still able to spin the wheels with no friction. Pads have been replaces along with driver side caliper. The caliper does move when pressure is applied but doesn't seem to move enough to make a good grab on pads. For the rear I can get the drivers side to lock up when pedal is completely to the floor. Keep in mind that all lines have been replaced.
I also have the abs light and brake light on at all times, but if I disconnect it from the proportioning valve they go off.

I have noticed a small groove on the back side of the rotors but I don't think that should have a negative pressure affect on the rotors or cylinder.
I have spent hours on pushing and holding the brake pedal to bleed these lines and still have nothing.
 
  #15  
Old 11-11-2012 | 08:14 PM
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Sounds like proportioning valve may be jacked or not bled sufficiently.
 
  #16  
Old 11-14-2012 | 01:46 PM
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Valve nipple is in the up position not sunken position. I have been bleeding these brakes for hours with good flow coming out of each bleeder valve.
 
  #17  
Old 11-14-2012 | 02:09 PM
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Could still be the valve, but I'd look into the possibility of a bad MC.
 
  #18  
Old 11-14-2012 | 06:12 PM
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Master cylinder is brand new.
 
  #19  
Old 11-14-2012 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Efrench1183
Master cylinder is brand new.
So what, it still can be defective. And you did bench bleed it right?
 




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