Oh, that makes sense. Good advice.

So, basically all I need to fire this thing up at this point is:
-A constant +12v to the ASD Relay that I have wired in
-PCM constant +12v (Cav 3, Rd/Wt @ PCM connector)
-Grounds (One for PCM / One bundle for sensors)
-Wire in fuel pump. Will be on seperate relay that is powered
by ASD relay. (Gn/Or, #57 @ PCM connector)
-Hook up O2 sensor (weld bung into right exhaust pipe)
-Plump Fuel Injection rated fuel line.

Things that I will do, but aren't needed to fire it up:
-Splice oil pressure sensor wire from '94 harness to '78 harness.
-Splice coolant temperature sensor wire from '94 to '78 harness.
-Wire in CEL as well as "Low Oil Pressure" warning light.
-Splice tach signal wire from '94 to '78 harness.

 

PCM doesn't care what gear it's in when starting. Starter circuit is completely independent of the PCM. Starter relay control is powered from the ignition switch, and grounds thru the park/neutral switch. In your case, you can run it thru the clutch safety switch, if ya want.

 

Park/Neutral is pin #30 of the PCM. I just tied that in with one of the no-longer-in-use sensor grounds. Former ground of a vehicle speed sensor, I believe.

 

Well, that figures. Right about the time I am getting close to EFI'ing my truck, something else happens. As usual... Headed to work the other day and all at once, my 4th gear synchro is shot. So, the efi swap is taking a ride in the back seat while I try to find a NV4500 to replace my now failing NV3500. I have a fellow DF'er helping me track one down, but if someone has a lead on a smoking deal of a trans, please let me know. I'm open to a NV4500 that needs a rebuild, for the right price.

 

Found a trans. Well, a fellow DF'er found one for me. Lots of miles on it, so I'll be rebuilding it before it goes in.

A few more of my EFI parts have trickled in through the mail:
New 02 sensor
New Crank Pos Sensor
Plenum Plate

Still hunting a good inline fuel pump.

Will be welding in my O2 bung today.
Installed my Oil warning light. (Not wired, because engine harness wont go in until the engine swap.)

I decided to hone my cylinders and re-ring my pistons as well as install new bearings. Figured I will gasket match my heads, since it's all apart anyway. Im doing the plenum fix before it goes in as well. I am going to put my 5.2 cam in my 5.9 because it is a little bit hotter. I know it isnt much of a gain, but I happen to have one already and I will have my engine apart for other reasons.

There is my update and I wanted to let you guys know that the project is still in motion!

 

Hey guys, quick question: I have my block (5.9 magnum) torn down, except for the rotating assembly. I want to plastiguage my bearings before I do, but I cant seem to find what my tolerances and torque specs should be. The search here did me no good, and google also failed me.

 

 

Your the man - Zman. Thanks! I downloaded the online book, but for some reason, my adobe isnt working.

 

Glad I could help.

 

So, I bought a new cylinder hone, and it came with what appears to be 220 or 240 grit stones on it. I was under the impression that you should hone a cylinder with 280 grit. Am I safe in assuming that the new hone would come equipped with stones that are suitable to the task they are designed for, or should I find some finer stones? By the way... All of my bearings have platigauged "in spec". I think Im just going to buy new bearings and not do any machine work. Thoughts?