2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

how to fix these oil cooler line leaks

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 13, 2012 | 01:54 PM
  #11  
gertie240's Avatar
gertie240
Captain
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 556
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio,Texas
Default

you need to use a line disconnect tool to get it apart
 
Reply
Old Dec 14, 2012 | 10:17 AM
  #12  
fastz28's Avatar
fastz28
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Default

so when i replace the lines would i have have to replace the metal pipe lines that are attached the the rubber hoses?
 
Reply
Old Dec 14, 2012 | 10:46 AM
  #13  
Gary-L's Avatar
Gary-L
Legend
Veteran: Navy
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
Default

Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
My advice: Take the line completely out, and plumb in a remote filter at the remaining termination points. The ATF flows from the hard line to the radiator -- don't get it backward or life will get interesting in a few miles.

The remote filter brings with it, internal to the filter, a check valve. It's a good thing to have, as it provides the anti-drainback function that keeps the torque converter from draining into the cooling system when the engine is off. Every now and then a guy who's deleted the factory anti-drainback check valve shows up complaining that his truck won't go into gear for about half a minute after a cold start, usually when the weather is on the cold side, and it's the absence of that check valve that causes it.

If you don't install the remote filter and just delete the valve, be sure to start the truck in Neutral and let it run for half a minute or so before selecting a gear. That allows time for the converter to fill and normal pressures to develop. Failing to do that will gain you torque converter stress and shed friction material in the pan... these 46R's are problematic enough already, no sense pushing it.
Do you have one of these remote filter setups on your truck? If so, I'd like to see pictures of the setup along with specs for the materials needed.
 
Reply
Old Dec 14, 2012 | 12:55 PM
  #14  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,475
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
Default

Originally Posted by fastz28
so when i replace the lines would i have have to replace the metal pipe lines that are attached the the rubber hoses?
Not if they aren't causing trouble.
 
Reply
Old Dec 14, 2012 | 04:07 PM
  #15  
UnregisteredUser's Avatar
UnregisteredUser
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 5,011
Likes: 6
From: Meeker, CO
Default

Originally Posted by VWandDodge
Do you have one of these remote filter setups on your truck? If so, I'd like to see pictures of the setup along with specs for the materials needed.
I've got one, the Derale kit that's available from many places -- I ordered mine along with my transmission from PATC. The kit, five feet or so of trans cooler line, and a few screws/washers/lock washers/nuts were all that was required. I mounted it on the passenger fender well. I'd like to say that it's easy to get at there, but with the heat shield for the FIPK in the way it's a bit of a bother.

And because of the FIPK being in the way, photos are kinda pointless, too. But dvaughan comes to the rescue with photos here.
 
Reply
Old Dec 14, 2012 | 05:42 PM
  #16  
guzman's Avatar
guzman
Professional
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Default Remote filter

Here is another pic. of one I installed a couple weeks ago. Did a search on ebay and found this one, Hayden 2106 for $35.95 shipped from Summit Racing, came with fittings, clamps but no filter. The same filter for the motor fits so that was a plus. Remove your plastic overflow jug for room to work plus I had the shroud off so that made it easier yet to make things fit.
 

Last edited by guzman; Jan 27, 2013 at 05:10 PM.
Reply
Old Dec 14, 2012 | 11:03 PM
  #17  
baileysoffroad's Avatar
baileysoffroad
Veteran
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
My advice: Take the line completely out, and plumb in a remote filter at the remaining termination points. The ATF flows from the hard line to the radiator -- don't get it backward or life will get interesting in a few miles.

The remote filter brings with it, internal to the filter, a check valve. It's a good thing to have, as it provides the anti-drainback function that keeps the torque converter from draining into the cooling system when the engine is off. Every now and then a guy who's deleted the factory anti-drainback check valve shows up complaining that his truck won't go into gear for about half a minute after a cold start, usually when the weather is on the cold side, and it's the absence of that check valve that causes it.

If you don't install the remote filter and just delete the valve, be sure to start the truck in Neutral and let it run for half a minute or so before selecting a gear. That allows time for the converter to fill and normal pressures to develop. Failing to do that will gain you torque converter stress and shed friction material in the pan... these 46R's are problematic enough already, no sense pushing it.
So bottom line then is we should change what we got but be sure to something in?

Remote filter-like this one?



this just happens to be from summit, there are many other carriers and probably cheaper.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-7682/media/images
 
Reply
Old Dec 14, 2012 | 11:05 PM
  #18  
baileysoffroad's Avatar
baileysoffroad
Veteran
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by guzman
Here is another pic. of one I installed a couple weeks ago. Did a search on ebay and found this one, Hayden 2106 for $35.95 shipped from Summit Racing, came with fittings, clamps but no filter. The same filter for the motor fits so that was a plus. Remove your plastic overflow jug for room to work plus I had the shroud off so that made it easier yet to make things fit.

lol, i took to long
 
Reply
Old Dec 14, 2012 | 11:47 PM
  #19  
UnregisteredUser's Avatar
UnregisteredUser
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 5,011
Likes: 6
From: Meeker, CO
Default

Originally Posted by baileysoffroad
So bottom line then is we should change what we got but be sure to something in?
There's no sense letting the converter drain -- it's tough on them to run them only partially full, shocking the vanes when they go from air to liquid. And if one day you really need to get from cold start to moving in a helluva hurry, you won't be able to. That would suck if someone you care about needed to get to the ER in a hurry.

Originally Posted by baileysoffroad
Remote filter-like this one?

That'll work. It'll just leave you with extra parts that probably no one wants.
 
Reply
Old Mar 2, 2013 | 02:33 PM
  #20  
fastz28's Avatar
fastz28
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Default

how do you take the these lines off to replace them?
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:40 AM.