how to fix these oil cooler line leaks
#13
12-14-2012, 10:46 AM
My advice: Take the line completely out, and plumb in a remote filter at the remaining termination points. The ATF flows from the hard line to the radiator -- don't get it backward or life will get interesting in a few miles.
The remote filter brings with it, internal to the filter, a check valve. It's a good thing to have, as it provides the anti-drainback function that keeps the torque converter from draining into the cooling system when the engine is off. Every now and then a guy who's deleted the factory anti-drainback check valve shows up complaining that his truck won't go into gear for about half a minute after a cold start, usually when the weather is on the cold side, and it's the absence of that check valve that causes it.
If you don't install the remote filter and just delete the valve, be sure to start the truck in Neutral and let it run for half a minute or so before selecting a gear. That allows time for the converter to fill and normal pressures to develop. Failing to do that will gain you torque converter stress and shed friction material in the pan... these 46R's are problematic enough already, no sense pushing it.
The remote filter brings with it, internal to the filter, a check valve. It's a good thing to have, as it provides the anti-drainback function that keeps the torque converter from draining into the cooling system when the engine is off. Every now and then a guy who's deleted the factory anti-drainback check valve shows up complaining that his truck won't go into gear for about half a minute after a cold start, usually when the weather is on the cold side, and it's the absence of that check valve that causes it.
If you don't install the remote filter and just delete the valve, be sure to start the truck in Neutral and let it run for half a minute or so before selecting a gear. That allows time for the converter to fill and normal pressures to develop. Failing to do that will gain you torque converter stress and shed friction material in the pan... these 46R's are problematic enough already, no sense pushing it.
#14
12-14-2012, 12:55 PM
#15
12-14-2012, 04:07 PM
Grand Champion
And because of the FIPK being in the way, photos are kinda pointless, too. But dvaughan comes to the rescue with photos here.
#16
12-14-2012, 05:42 PM
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Remote filter
Here is another pic. of one I installed a couple weeks ago. Did a search on ebay and found this one, Hayden 2106 for $35.95 shipped from Summit Racing, came with fittings, clamps but no filter. The same filter for the motor fits so that was a plus. Remove your plastic overflow jug for room to work plus I had the shroud off so that made it easier yet to make things fit.
Last edited by guzman; 01-27-2013 at 05:10 PM.
#17
12-14-2012, 11:03 PM
My advice: Take the line completely out, and plumb in a remote filter at the remaining termination points. The ATF flows from the hard line to the radiator -- don't get it backward or life will get interesting in a few miles.
The remote filter brings with it, internal to the filter, a check valve. It's a good thing to have, as it provides the anti-drainback function that keeps the torque converter from draining into the cooling system when the engine is off. Every now and then a guy who's deleted the factory anti-drainback check valve shows up complaining that his truck won't go into gear for about half a minute after a cold start, usually when the weather is on the cold side, and it's the absence of that check valve that causes it.
If you don't install the remote filter and just delete the valve, be sure to start the truck in Neutral and let it run for half a minute or so before selecting a gear. That allows time for the converter to fill and normal pressures to develop. Failing to do that will gain you torque converter stress and shed friction material in the pan... these 46R's are problematic enough already, no sense pushing it.
The remote filter brings with it, internal to the filter, a check valve. It's a good thing to have, as it provides the anti-drainback function that keeps the torque converter from draining into the cooling system when the engine is off. Every now and then a guy who's deleted the factory anti-drainback check valve shows up complaining that his truck won't go into gear for about half a minute after a cold start, usually when the weather is on the cold side, and it's the absence of that check valve that causes it.
If you don't install the remote filter and just delete the valve, be sure to start the truck in Neutral and let it run for half a minute or so before selecting a gear. That allows time for the converter to fill and normal pressures to develop. Failing to do that will gain you torque converter stress and shed friction material in the pan... these 46R's are problematic enough already, no sense pushing it.
Remote filter-like this one?
this just happens to be from summit, there are many other carriers and probably cheaper.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-7682/media/images
#18
12-14-2012, 11:05 PM
Here is another pic. of one I installed a couple weeks ago. Did a search on ebay and found this one, Hayden 2106 for $35.95 shipped from Summit Racing, came with fittings, clamps but no filter. The same filter for the motor fits so that was a plus. Remove your plastic overflow jug for room to work plus I had the shroud off so that made it easier yet to make things fit.
lol, i took to long
#19
12-14-2012, 11:47 PM
Grand Champion
That'll work. It'll just leave you with extra parts that probably no one wants.