i believe thats what they are i have a 1998 dodge ram 1500 2wd 5.9l laramie 160k miles

by the radiator

 

If you are leaking where the soft lines are crimped to the hard lines, replace that section with some trans cooler hose, and some hose clamps. Same goes for the quick connects.

Also, in your second pic, the line with the double-nut type thing is a check valve. Get rid of that. They tend to clog, and then your trans burns up.

 

HeyYou is what ppl have done (getting rid) by drilling it out? Or get a new line altogether?

 

I think most guys have just drilled it out from everything I have read.

 

How do you get it off to drill it out? Easily.

 

My way of removing it would be to cut it out and replace the line... But that is me...

 

I don't feel like dealing with that, I just wanna drill it out. lol

 

Well find someone who has done it and ask them.. I wouldnt want to risk having any kind of shavings in there..

 

That's true, I have thought of that. But since a bunch of others have done it with no ill effects I think it will just depend on how well it gets rinsed out.

 

My advice: Take the line completely out, and plumb in a remote filter at the remaining termination points. The ATF flows from the hard line to the radiator -- don't get it backward or life will get interesting in a few miles.

The remote filter brings with it, internal to the filter, a check valve. It's a good thing to have, as it provides the anti-drainback function that keeps the torque converter from draining into the cooling system when the engine is off. Every now and then a guy who's deleted the factory anti-drainback check valve shows up complaining that his truck won't go into gear for about half a minute after a cold start, usually when the weather is on the cold side, and it's the absence of that check valve that causes it.

If you don't install the remote filter and just delete the valve, be sure to start the truck in Neutral and let it run for half a minute or so before selecting a gear. That allows time for the converter to fill and normal pressures to develop. Failing to do that will gain you torque converter stress and shed friction material in the pan... these 46R's are problematic enough already, no sense pushing it.