Gotta make sure the sensor is not rubbing on the flex plate. It will cause damage. Make sure they are both the same length also.

 

yeah we're good to go on length and all.

i got the new one in tonight and made sure i had the rubber seal seated right and slid the new sensor in. went in nicely, hardest part was running the harness up to the connector. fired her up and didnt hear anything hitting/rubbing so i think its good to go.

i will see what happens tomorrow.

 

I must have gotten you mixed up with someone else, because I thought you were going to school at UW-Stevens Point which is 30 miles from me and I see that you live in Ohio. I live in Wisconsin, Sorry about the mix up sometimes I'm drunk when I come on here lol.

As for the bolts looking rusty, I meant that as the intake was never taken off, the bolts should be fine unless a previous dummy torqued them too much which doesn't look like it happened. Do not worry yourself about the intake bolts lol I live in Wisconsin, rust is what things do up here via the salt on the roads during the winter and sometimes rainy spring & fall weather and I have yet to break an intake bolt on any of the 6 360 Magnum motors I've removed & installed the plenum/intake on. Can it happen? yes if its sitting in a swamp for 3 years never being used or exposed to something harsh, but not very likely. If it were exhaust manifolds we were talking about I'd be only slightly worried and even at that unless they look completely crusty like something growing off of the Titanic's bow I would even reuse them unless I had time & extra cash laying around just for the fun of it to spend. Its not something that would stop me in the least, and if you do break one off, one bolt with a broken head won't stop an intake from sealing no matter where it is on the intake. This fear is generally overstated and is just that...fear.

If you're worried about the intake bolts breaking, run your truck for like 10 minutes prior to taking it apart so that the residual heat from the engine will make taking the bolts out easier, plus if its cold out, the engine heat will keep you warm. Just loosen the intake bolts a bit then wait for the engine to cool down depending on how hot it got from running in that time. I've used this method a few times to remove stubborn oil pan drain bolts. You should be able to get at most of the intake bolts to loosen them a few turns just to be sure they will come out.

 

haha not a problem Josh. i dont think ill have any troubles when i do pull it off. i will use the heated method before i try to unbolt it. i might wait till after winter to do it, if i keep it that is.

gonna head out here in a bit and let it get to temp and see what happens when i throw it in reverse. i think i am going to install my remote filter in the trans return line and remove the check valve as well. before i sent my 97 explorer to the scrap yard i removed the external filter i installed on it, might as well get use out of it.

 

Well the stalling in reverse has stopped. I will keep monitoring it and reply if it happens again.

I do believe i have a pressure problem tho, it is only in reverse and will go away after it is driven for a bit. Im going to delete the check valve, install my external trans filter and possibly run this can of kooler klean thru the trans cooler(s). I have the one in the Rad and a cooler behind the Rad from what i can see.

Which cooler does the fluid run thru first?

 

Goes thru radiator first, then to aux cooler in front of radiator (behind condenser) if the aux cooler is stock anyway......

 

thats what i thought. ok thanks. and yes it is the stock aux cooler.

 

just thought i'd give a quick update since its been a few weeks and many cold mornings since installing the new crank sensor, the stalling in reverse has not returned.

of course i will keep a eye on things and do my everyday warm up to "test it". if it returns i will post back. if not, well everythings still going good.

so it seems that the cure for the stalling in reverse only when brought up to temp on the first start up was due to a bad crank sensor, could have also been helped by how it was installed. either way, that was the "fix". Hope this might help someone else down the road.

 

Just wanted to let you know about the sensor, I just replaced mine on my 01 Dodge Ram Conversion Van 1500 5.2, my old One looked the same as your old one with the groove and holes in the borrón. This they are original ?
I read your whole story hoping it would help me ? Mine to after warm up stalls, But any time when warm ? I replaced wires,cap,rotor,IAC , TPS, Crankshaft sensor, T stat, water pump, cleaned TB, and found when it stalls. My relays click , no coses , But some times i get No Bus. Ran a instrument gauge check to see if all my gauge were working due to the No Bus I got some times and all good. I checked all my sensors for 5v and good grounds, batt and alternator are good. So i did the connector wiggle test at my PCM and found that by doing the wiggle test that the PCM side of the connectors when wiggled only after its warm would stall it . So I am going to replace my PCM this week. Thinking that something loose in side like the circuit board or something ?
On these vana having the PCM on the firewall above the alternator , T stat and hoses is not a good place. I am thinking of moving it, there is a wire harness they make to extend the PCM wires so you can move it, they run about $145 for the arneses.
I am glad you got yours going, I will find out this Week if the PCM works for me ?