the engine sounds like a diesel when idling or low rpms after it warms up. when cold it sounds quiet and normal. the oil pressure when cold is about 60 and 35-40 when warmed up. when driving I cant here it at all. would this be main bearings and rod bearings.....both? if so what all do I need parts wise to fix this issue? it sounds like its coming from the bottom end close to the rear of the motor. should I plasti-gauge the bearings first then go buy the new ones. what should the correct gap be so I know what bearings to buy. all guidance is much appreciated. I went to 20-50w oil to get a little extra protection until I can fix this. 135k on the engine. a rebuilt 360 is just not an affordable option at this time. THANKS ALL

 

Put a mechanical gauge on it, and see what oil pressure is REALLY doing. If you have good pressure, and it still rattles, I would spend some time with a stethoscope and see if you can't isolate exactly where the noise is coming from.

 

Does it run normal or crappy when it makes the noise(s)after warm up?

 

Before you start freaking yourself out, start by tightening the exhaust manifold bolts and nuts, and feeling around the exhaust while it's idling for any hint of puffing through a leak point. An exhaust tick can sound a LOT like internal mechanical problems, and the fact that it goes away when the engine is hot makes sense since the tolerances of the manifolds on the block will tighten up with the heat.

Rule that out first, then start on internals. Rule of thumb, you want at least 10 PSI per 1000 RPM. If you're below that then you have cause to investigate and worry for sure.

But first, make sure it's not just the exhaust leaking.

 

I have that same issue on my 2001 Ram 1500 Sport w/ 5.9L GAS baby!
IT'S SUPER QUITE! @ the beginning then after the idle begins to drop down to 600 just before it does that it starts to slowly tick a gentle loud tick???? BUT not until its warmed up and your @ a stop light idling or something like that right???? Basically can't hear it while driving normal or hard on it ? I first thought it was cause I moved to another house and my drive way was inclined slightly which left my motor draining oil into the very bottom of oil pan and caused the pump to over work itself during initial start up??????? I've actually been waiting for some thread like this to fix the DAMN THANG! Now back to business....

I've done a valve job and went back and torqued them rockers twice now last time gave a lil extra just in case and they were alot quiter almost perfect so my guess is that whatever can get worn out in between the piston and rocker should be replaced to make sure your not opening a can of worms once you see something you didn't need to see nor want to..... lol..

I recently opened my tranny to replace my gov. pressure switch and purge or black switch in same manifold as gov. switch. along with the overdrive component.
I noticed that my kick down band was very loose like I could knock it up against the steel housing of the tranny and produce that exact noise!!!! I'll be damned!!!! So then I tried to adjust the rear band first and my torque wrench went to sh_t! and caused me to basically hope I got it right??? By placing it where it used to be KINDA I GUESS?

So I'm confused still about this being after I did a valve job and torqued the nuts on the top of rocker arms down to spec or a tad more being things get a lil wore out sometimes when you own a DODGE or BIG RED cause I'm constantly on it! YA BOY!
That actually took it away shortly but not either completely or permanently??? I've read in the repair manual downloads that the tranny does actually still spin while in park on these Dodge's but why would it wait till it warms up to start ticking slowly like that and so loud too! lol
I've been @ 15/40 w additives or 20/50 and a lil extra some some... for some time now and tired of it! DAMN it! Lets go Dodge forum...... "get her done!"


This is a loud tick not a knock that comes from the rear of motor down by the oil pan basically the pump area??? But why not on initial start up then??? why wait till my trucks at idle to began then? why would a tightening of rocker arms help or almost fix it then????
PLEASE HELP ASAP!!!!
Thanks to those who care much appreciatted to y'all!

 

Should we go down to 180 to hope the cooler motor doesn't tick that annoying calm but passive super loud tick....


Or assume its one of the 10 things that we read about causing similar noises..........valves,rocker arms, rods oil pump main bearings kickdown band or whatever it is???? PLEASE HELP!!!!

 

See if you can't isolate the noise some more. May be a lifter bleeding down when it gets warm... or any of a host of other things.

 

Or can it be one of the catalytic converters going out soon since I've got 140,000 on it! Maybe any of the 4 oxygen sensors cause I've recently got the 0161 code for rear bank 2 oxygen sensor and now today replacing them after being at junk yard all day yesterday thanks TRUCK AND VAN!!!! lots of Dodge parts there!!! ROWS OF THEM! To get upper ball joints and 4 tie rods.. This is becoming a full time job and very expensive? But, I love it kinda!?!

 

There has to be other Dodge ram owners who have experienced the same thing! Being I take care of my truck better than any one I've ever known except my Father Joe Bozym... Whats up Dad.....


Some one who has had similiar loud calm tick coming from rear bottom of motor area after but only after vehicle has warmed up not on initial start up???? very confusing to us novice mechanics who don't get paid to SWING THEIR PIMP HAND THAT'S WAY STRONG!.................

Pay it Forward if you have to man..................... come on down!

We are awaiting your advice chosen one! lol

 

Last but not least Sooper I think it happens when its warmed up bud not the reverse when happening when its cold or during initial start up cause mine happens after that idle drops under 700 during warm up and only during the time the vehicle is sitting and running and not moving??????????????