Steering problems and components questions
#31
The stub shaft is a D-shaped spline. None of my 12 point sockets really fit. I can cram a 17mm 12 point on there, but I hate doing that as it will booger up the teeth of the splines. I need a 17.5 lol! (or the $70 socket from Miller)
I didn't know there was a 1/4 to 3/8 (small getting bigger) adapter. Gonna go look for one of those right now.
I messed around with the steering gear in the vice and adjusted it till I could get the Over-Center torque set where I had to use both bare hands to turn it. Then rotated the shaft 180*, and from there I could turn shaft with one bare hand. Point being, I now have the Over-Center Rotating torque set slightly higher than the Preload Rotating torque. Is it 2-6 in-lbs more? I have no freaking idea. Additionally, I am "screwed in" about 2 5/8s turns from "all the way out" on the adjuster screw. Does that sound like a lot to anyone with experience with this? Point being, if it sounds like my steering gear is shot, I don't want to put this one back on.
Thanks,
Mark
I didn't know there was a 1/4 to 3/8 (small getting bigger) adapter. Gonna go look for one of those right now.
I messed around with the steering gear in the vice and adjusted it till I could get the Over-Center torque set where I had to use both bare hands to turn it. Then rotated the shaft 180*, and from there I could turn shaft with one bare hand. Point being, I now have the Over-Center Rotating torque set slightly higher than the Preload Rotating torque. Is it 2-6 in-lbs more? I have no freaking idea. Additionally, I am "screwed in" about 2 5/8s turns from "all the way out" on the adjuster screw. Does that sound like a lot to anyone with experience with this? Point being, if it sounds like my steering gear is shot, I don't want to put this one back on.
Thanks,
Mark
#32
I figured out last night that if I lay a piece of .030 MIG welding wire in one of the valleys of the spline on the stub shaft, that I can then use a 18mm socket and manipulate the stub shaft. So I ordered a 0-60 in-lb torque wrench today.
Additionally, I talked to Bryce at Redhead Steering Gears today. His opinion was that if I had to screw the adjuster screw in by as much as I did, my gear is pretty much shot. Upon hearing that, I went ahead and ordered a rebuilt steering gear from them. I will still try and make a DIY outta this for anyone that wants to try it.
As a FYI, visited another dealership today and they said they don't have anyone who would know how to do this task (adjusting the Over-Center torque) either.
Additionally, I talked to Bryce at Redhead Steering Gears today. His opinion was that if I had to screw the adjuster screw in by as much as I did, my gear is pretty much shot. Upon hearing that, I went ahead and ordered a rebuilt steering gear from them. I will still try and make a DIY outta this for anyone that wants to try it.
As a FYI, visited another dealership today and they said they don't have anyone who would know how to do this task (adjusting the Over-Center torque) either.
Last edited by aggiejet; 04-01-2013 at 04:31 PM.
#33
I got the rebuilt Red Head installed on the truck but now my steering wheel is about 90* off. i.e. To drive straight down the road, the part of the steering wheel that is normally at 9 o'clock (cruise control on/off paddle) is now at 6 o'clock. On the bright side, the truck drives a lot better.
My steering wheel would not lock straight ahead when I took the old steering gear off, but I made sure it didn't move around a lot when I had it unhooked from the steering gear.
I am really stumped about how to fix this. Anybody have any suggestions?
My steering wheel would not lock straight ahead when I took the old steering gear off, but I made sure it didn't move around a lot when I had it unhooked from the steering gear.
I am really stumped about how to fix this. Anybody have any suggestions?
#34
#35
Does it turn the same number of rotations at steering wheel from center to left and then from center to right? If not, then may have to remove pitman arm and possibly shaft and recenter. Alignment can compensate for small amount, but that would be heck of tie rod adjustment to get 90 degrees out.
#36
Does it turn the same number of rotations at steering wheel from center to left and then from center to right? If not, then may have to remove pitman arm and possibly shaft and recenter. Alignment can compensate for small amount, but that would be heck of tie rod adjustment to get 90 degrees out.
I will attempt a more detailed explanation. This is pretty hard to describe.
The steering shaft clamp that connects to stub shaft of steering gear (SG) is flat on one side. It goes on one way. The Pitman arm shaft that comes out of the SG has "flats" every 90* that match up with the Pitman arm. Therefore, the Pitman arm goes on at exactly one place, with no fine adjustments available.
The following is what I envision if I try to fix this. I haven't tried this but I tried everything else yesterday to no avail, so I am down to this. If I park the truck with the wheels straight ahead, the steering wheel is rotated 90* to the left. So if I pull the Pitman arm off and then turn the steering wheel 90* to the right, the steering wheel and SG will be centered. Here's the hard part. When I put the Pitman arm on the shaft of the SG, the ball joint stud on the other end of the Pitman arm does not line up with the hole in the center link.
I tore the rubber boot arm the ball joint of the OEM Pitman arm taking it off. The threaded portion of the ball joint is bent. I think that is significant, and why I can't get everything to line up.
I'm off to the barn to try this. Let me know if you need pictures. I will eventually post all this as a DIY when I'm done. If I ever get done.
Thanks,
Mark
#38
To center the SG will require a 1/4 turn of the stub shaft. With the old SG in a vice and the pitman arm attached,, I have measured that a 1/4 of the stub shaft will move the ball joint stud (BJS) about 1/2 inch. The full travel of the ball stud is about 8 inches, four inches from center.
What I did yesterday is close to what you describe, however I only disconnected the BSJ from the center link. Then when I centered the SG, the BSJ won"t line up with the hole in the center link, to which you attach the BSJ through.
If I do as you describe, I could put the BSJ thru the hole in the center link but now the flats/ridges won't line up on the pitman shaft and it cannot be seated.
I am attaching a picture of the original pitman arm BSJ. Notice how bent it is. I think this is a major problem. It was forced together at the factory
Last edited by aggiejet; 04-08-2013 at 04:08 PM.
#40
Ok , just looked at pic and read the sig. So it's a 2wd, very possible there are more key ways on the steering shaft on a 2wd . sorry. Either way. if it's 90 out, the arm needs to be removed and the box need's to be centered, and the spline's need to be cleaned up so the arm will go on in the correct orientation.