Howdy,

From a complete stop and then accelerating, my truck will "steer" to right very sharply. Like go in the ditch if you don't correct. At cruise, when the engine accelerates and puts torque on the steering components, same thing. Truck wanders around the road at steady speed.

I am suspect of tie rod ends, but after reading a bit, it could be anything. any input? Are steering component problems readily identified?

Additionally, if it is the tie rod ends, what is everyone's opinion about what brand to use. I have read a lot about the quality of Moog components, or the lack thereof. I replaced the ball joints a couple of years ago, and used Moog because I thought they were the best.

(i tried a forum search for info but really couldn't find what I was looking for. Sorry for duplicity if this has been thrashed to death already)

Thanks,
Mark

 

Moog is fine. As far as troubleshooting the components goes, you simply need to get under and check. Help from another person is pretty much required, this way they can rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look at ALL the components starting from where the shaft comes out of the firewall.
As far as suspension goes, you'll need to lift one side at a time to check ball joints, hub bearings , etc...

And welcome to DF.

 

+1

Also... check for a seized caliper.

I just replaced all the steeing components and went with MOOG. You can find stuff for half the price on eBay and Rock Auto... it's tempting but I decided against it.

Being that I have limited time on the new MOOG parts I can't comment on durabilty but just looking at the joints... they do appear to be "beefier" then stock.

 

I am no expert but I have seen this before. Your problem with pulling to the right only under acceleration could be related to the differantial moving a little. Check the leaf spring eye bushings and shackels. Also check the U bolts. Look at the spring and spring pad joint (where the differential sits on the spring) for any signs of movement. The head of the center spring bolt (bolt through the center of all the leaves of the spring) fits into a hole in the spring pad on the differential providing the correct location for it and the U bolts lock it in place. Sometime when work is done on the springs like an add a leaf or lift kit work the U bolts don't get tightened enough and the differential tries to move under acceleration. This eventually rounds the head off the sping center bolt allowing the differentila to move forward. This makes the rear out of line with the front causing it to pull one way or the other under acceleration. You said your's pulls right so if this is your problem it is probably the right side moveing forward under acceleration. If this is the cause of the pulling to the right you porbably have another problem causing the road wander.

 

Let me be more specific. From a stop, when accelerating, the steering wheel will turn right on it's own. Additionally, there just seems to be a little play in the steering wheel when i am driving down the road. I have never had any leaf spring or rear suspension work done on the truck.

Is it obvious when a component (e.g. tie rod end, Pittman arm, idler arm) is bad? Additionally, are there common steering problems with this vintage of truck?

Had to do yard work today. Will roll her into the shop tomorrow and report back.

Thanks,
Mark

 

Sorry I misunderstood thought it went to the right when ever you accelerate. ZMAN17 gave you good info to fine loose steering components. Follow his directions and you should find any problems. 2nd gen 4wd trucks have steering problem losts of threads to look at. But I haven't seen many for 2wd trucks. I'm sure lots of smart people will chine in and give advice.

 

I raised the front end off the ground and put the steering wheel in the locked position. Then I grabbed the wheel on the left/right outside edges and pushed/pulled. (Haynes manual says to do this to check TRE's and to use a dial caliper. If there is more than .108 movement, the TRE's are bad) My wheel was moving about 1/2 inch. I had my son manipulate the wheel while I lay underneath and I noticed all of the steering components (shaft to the steering gear, Pittman arm, connecting rod, idler arm, TRE's) moving at the same time. Next, I grabbed each component and pulled around on them them but could not determine if any one part was bad. They all seemed to be tight, with no visible signs of damage. With front end on the ground, I twisted the shaft that goes to steering gear. The steering wheel reacted proportionatelyto that twisting motion. Next I looked at the Pittman arm while my son gently moved the steering wheel back and forth. Using the outside of the steering wheel as a reference, it will move about 1 inch before the Pittman arm moves.

So, does this mean new steering gear, or simply an adjustment? I read the How To section for this. Seems simple enough, but getting to it seems tough. (Fan shroud looks like it is in the way)

Additionally, I had to have the front end raised off the ground in order for the steering wheel to lock. Had to spin it almost 180* to get it to lock. This struck me as odd, and have never noticed that before.

Hope this helps paint a picture of what I got going on.

Thanks,
Mark

 

You can try adjusting it , and yes it's a PITA. But to do it right you need to do the whole procedure, as in two adjustments and removal of the gear box. http://dodgeram.org/tech/mods/steeri...ear/Adjust.htm

As far as the steering wheel lock goes , that's normal for a Ram.

 

Z,

Thanks for the input. I saw that in the Service manual this morning. Man, what a lot of work. Of course, I have a Spanner wrench laying around for just such a job. Does anybody have that done? Goodnight, by the time you paid shop rates for that, you could buy a new one I would think.

I read the DIY on this subject. That guy did it with the gearbox still installed. Is that not ok, what are the dangers?

As an FYI, I called both Borgesen and Redhead today. If I understood correctly, Borgesen has taken a completely different body which is made by Delphi, and given it new/better engineering and parts. Redhead just rebuilds the same unit but uses bigger ball bearings. Really didn't want to throw another $500 at the 'ol pickup.

I'll try to follow up on the completion of this task.

Thanks,
Mark

 

it can be done in the truck, but, it certainly is a whole lot easier, and more accurate... with it in a vice. Sure, it takes a bit more effort, but, the end result will be better too.