Glad you got it worked out, but don't stop now. See if you can break those CAD bolts loose without twisting them off. If not, start soaking them with penetrating oil till you can.
You know you're gonna have to remove them sooner or later and you'll be ahead of the game. Those axle seals do a fair job of keeping the oil in, but not so good at keeping water and mud out of the CAD. They have a habit of rusting and cruding up, forcing you to remove and clean.
At least keep the thought in mind if you can't do it now.

 

glad you got it fixed. but you took an unnecessary risk by putting it all back together without testing the cad first. had it not worked, you would have had to take all that **** back apart to engage everything properly. all you had to do was start the truck (for vac) and test it on the jack stands.

do - spray the cad bolts several times with pb-blaster or other and let it soak in. as said, someday you'll have to fix the CAD or replace the axle seals. mine came off with no problem after a little pb-blaster. others in rusty climates report problems. the good news is that if they do break off, they are easy to drill out.

i recently replaced calipers, pads, and turned the rotors. i got best pricing from advanceautoparts.com, buy online and free shipping to home, with discount codes. you have to pay the core charge, but then its refunded when you return them to your local store (or return ship). rockauto has a little cheaper purchase price, but you have to pay shipping on the core return. i didn't order from rockauto due to excessive shipping charges both ways.

oreilys turns the rotors for $10 each, BUT - you have to have enough material to turn. my local place is a bit of pain, in that they stopped turning at minimum thickness (company policy) and didn't quite get them clean. just another couple of thousands would have finished it up. (a local shop would have just winked and finished the job). but even then, while not perfect, they were a lot better than the original grooved-up rotors, and a lot cheaper than buying new rotors.

Advance discount codes.
ES123 - $10 off 30, $20 off 50, $30 off 100
MFD11 - $20 off $60
A124 - $10 off 30, $25 off 70, $40 off 100 **this is the good one***
HUGE30 - $30 off 90
DEM7 - 20% off 100 + $50 coupon
BRKX - 25% off 100 for brakes

(discount does not apply to oils and a few other things)
anything in stock can be bought online (with discount) and picked up in store.
anything not in stock must be shipped to home, and must exceed $75 to get the free shipping.

 

Yeah I know I did, but honestly I felt comfortable and had a very good feeling everything was OK and lined up. After talking to you guys and reading how all that works several times something just told me to just torque everything down and toss the wheels on.

Before I did torque everything down I took the mechanics stethoscope and listened carefully in the CAD housing area and all sounded good, no strange noises.

Thanks for those codes. I'm going to see about just turning the rotors but I really need front calipers. Them things are done for. I hate it when pervious owners never take time to fix/maintain/and clean things..

I'll get those bolts sprayed down a few times. Like you guys said, only a matter of time

 

Check the oil level in the diff now that the work is done, it will be just a little low from leaking out into the diff tubes. Also as oil has leaked out of the pumpkin into the tube don't freak out thinking you need new seals in the diff, give it few days for the oil to drip out/dry up.

 

I had it apart for about a week (doing others things as well as joints and hubs) so I had a catch pan underneath the pass side and caught it all. about a 1/4qt leaked out all together. none came out the driver side as my garage floor is not level or even concrete so the pass side was lower then the driver side. I will definitely replace/top off the oil.

and good call, I will give it a few days, plus its raining out here so its all wet down there. i'll check it for the next few days.


now to investigate my trans slipping after 50mph, its getting worse so time to nip that in the butt. shifts good, just slipping after whatever comes last, o/d or tc lockup. mainly under light throttle (keeping steady speed).. gonna read thru the FSM and do some searching.

thanks again guys.

 

Same crap here but better than snow like most of Canada is getting lol Hunt up gdstock he has some very good advice on auto trannys.

 

lol..

yeah he is very good, him and a few others helped with some trans problems I was having w/my 98 Ram. worst case i'll for sure pick his brain, but I hate bothering ppl, so i'll try all I can and read what is out there first then resort to bothering him (and others)..

but last night I disconnected both batt cables and the valve body harness, park switch and speed sensor. cleaned the connectors and left it all off over night with the key ON and headlight switch on. hooked everything up and then the battery this morning and drove it about 20 miles and everything was good. so i'll give it a few days and go from there.