in park I can't rev past 1600 rpm then it farts and pops and stalls replaced cap rotor wires plugs pick up coil fuel pump sawsalled off the cat and unplugged the o2 sensor pre cat and nothing worked replaced and now i can't even shift into drive it farts pops and backfires until i take my foot off the gas then it stalls.
2 days away from junking this truck and never buying dodge again PLEASE HELP!!!!!

 

I did look in the other thread then post those answers here.

 

I know there are other post out there like this but none have been solved

 

timing is good all marks aligned etc how do i check the fuel pressure have never done it yet i have a gauge for some reason pump is a duralast

 

Download the 2001 factory service manual from the FAQ's section.
It will explain how to check pressure.



Dave

 

thanks jarhead

 

Head over to the diy 2nd gen area and Dl the 2001 fsm page 1497

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL PUMP
PRESSURE TEST
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump
Capacity Test, Fuel Pressure Leak Down Test and Fuel
Pump Amperage Test found elsewhere in this group.
Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump
outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel
flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply
line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational.
It is also used to keep the fuel supply line
full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After
the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop
to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will
remain in fuel supply line between the check valve
and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has
dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle
(engine off) is a normal condition. When the electric
fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should
immediately (1–2 seconds) rise to specification.
All fuel systems are equipped with a fuel tank
module mounted, combination fuel filter/fuel pressure
regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is not controlled
by engine vacuum.

WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CONSTANT
FUEL PRESSURE EVEN WITH THE ENGINE
OFF. BEFORE DISCONNECTING FUEL LINE AT
FUEL RAIL, THIS PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED.
REFER TO THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
RELEASE PROCEDURE.

(1) Remove protective cap at fuel rail test port.
Connect the 0–414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge
(from gauge set 5069) to test port pressure fitting on
fuel rail (Fig. 11). The DRBt III Scan Tool along
with the PEP module, the 500 psi pressure
transducer, and the transducer-to-test port
adapter may also be used in place of the fuel
pressure gauge.

(2) Start and warm engine and note pressure
gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be 339 kPa 6 34
kPa (49.2 psi 6 5 psi) at idle.

(3) If engine runs, but pressure is below 44.2 psi,
check for a kinked fuel supply line somewhere
between fuel rail and fuel pump module. If line is not
kinked, but specifications for either the Fuel Pump
Capacity, Fuel Pump Amperage or Fuel Pressure
Leak Down Tests were not met, replace fuel pump
module assembly. Refer to Fuel Pump Module
Removal/Installation.

(4) If operating pressure is above 54.2 psi, electric
fuel pump is OK, but fuel pressure regulator is defective.
Replace fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator. Refer
to Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure Regulator Removal/Installation
for more information.

(5) Install protective cap to fuel rail test port.

 

Fuel Pressure is absolutely perfect needle reads about 50 psi at idle dont know how to check when it acts up because it wont stay running

 

any other suggestions I noticed if i feather the pedal after it runs rough i can get it to idle hence how i checked fuel pressure i'm so stumped its not the injectors either. Might be a for sale sign on it soon if not

 

Download the service manual as stated. With it and a cheap multimeter you can test most if not all the sensors. Coil replaced? Crank sensor replaced? You didn't remove or turn the distributor did you? What brand parts are you buying? (like the cam sensor). Did you remove the negative battery cable while replacing or cleaning sensors? Have you tried cleaning IAC and throttle body?