That depends on the ramp angle and the water level, not all ramps are the same. I have seen people with water up the the bottom of the rockers. Some out here do have a hitch on the front and launch that way as well lol.

Anti seize no don't use it this is wrong for the job at hand. I have switched over to a ceramic grease for all my brake lubricant.

 

I use the Sil-Glide stuff. Works great, doesn't harden, doesn't attract dirt as badly as some others I have used.

 

I use moly grease on all my break hardware and hubs.

And for the record, rotors don't warp. It's either DTV, or uneven friction material transferred from incomplete bedding or crappy pads.

 

Yes they do. DTV and "Warp" are simply two terms for the same basic effect. Pedal pulsation. "DTV" may be the more "correct" term.... but, that's just mincing words.

 

Cast iron rotors do not warp. And DTV doesn't happen after the fact. It's machined that way. And it's not mincing words, it's applying a completely wrong (and half ***) term to a runout problem.

The pedal pulsation is mostly from friction spotting anyway. DTV causes more of a "steering" feel to me.

 

Well. Thats interesting. I lost count of the number of iron rotors I have turned because of a pedal pulsation, and low and behold, they were indeed warped.

Are you stating this from knowledge? Experience? Something you learned in an engineering class? What? Because quite frankly, you are wrong. Rotors warp. I have seen literally hundreds of cases of them. It isn't because they were machined that way from the factory, it isn't because of sitting wrong on a shelf. Its from use. Or abuse, as the case may be. Overheat them, and they WILL warp.

Now, I will grant you, I have gotten rotors that needed to be trued right off the shelf. THAT is a factory, or sitting on the shelf issue. Got to the point that I would take a couple thousandths off new rotors before I ever installed them. Got tired of them coming back for pedal pulsation.

If you are getting a steering pull from braking, very seldom have I seen changing or turning the rotors solve that. (except on GM L bodies in the early 90's.....)

 

I've turned a lot of rotors, and sure, a lot of them have runout. I used to believe rotors would warp when I saw this. But unless you've measured runout on these rotors before installation, you have no idea what caused the runout. Machined that way? Uneven wheel/hub torque? Shoddy break-in?

Pads also leave deposits called cementite on the rotor face that caused decreased wear in that spot. This is distinctly different than the cast iron warping. Brake pads cannot get to the temperature needed to permanently distort rotors by heat.

You may know a lot about brakes (takes over 10,000 hours to become an expert, BTW), but context and specific word meanings are not your forte. Warping is not what is happening. Uneven friction material transfer, DTV, or cementite buildup is happening.

For those who haven't seen everything that automotive brakes have to offer, do some reading on it. People a lot smarter than me have determined this, I'm just trying to spread some knowledge. I should have known better, there's always someone who swears the opposite. Oh well. Carry on.

 

Alright. Did some light reading..... LOTS of information out there in the world on this particular topic, some better than others. Some of the articles from the leading experts were some of the worst written I have seen in some time. Misuse of terms, poor punctuation, etc... but, that's beside the point.

Anyway. You are indeed correct. Rotors don't 'warp' in the strictest technical meaning of the word. You end up with uneven deposits of brake material on the rotor surface, giving thickness variations in the swept area of the rotor. (which most folks, including most technicians, call "warp", be it right or wrong....) So, you end up with the correct solution to fix it, even though the term used to describe is technically incorrect.

Now, on PADS that were severely overheated (apparently, it isn't possible to overheat a rotor, at least, without using a torch....), you can end up with 'pad imprinting' at least, (the pad leaving its outline on the rotor, which is where material has been deposited, which will give a pulsation eventually) or, the formation of the aforementioned cementite, where the carbon from the pads actually bonds with the iron in the rotors..... This leaves a 'hard spot', that has different wear, and heat transfer, characteristics, than the rest of the rotor, and eventually WILL cause pedal pulsation, as the rotor will now wear unevenly. (once again, giving varying thickness that is referred to was "warp", even though, technically, it isn't.) Only correction for that is replacement.

Given that this 'mis-useage' of the term has been around as long as drum brakes have been in service...... it's probably pointless to attempt to convince folks to call it what it really is..... lateral runout. "Warped" is much easier, and conveys the point. Which is all we really care about. Right?

Are we having fun yet?

Given that most folks, including most technicians, don't take the time to properly bed in the pads, it is quite likely that we will continue to see these issues. At least, until someone comes up with a better way to slow a vehicle. (don't hold your breath. )