My Lift Question
#11
#12
With the top gun lift, you just call them and say you want coil springs instead of spacers...
And if you throw in those 2.5" spacers and aal's, you'll have to lengthen the steering components to match; trackbar, pitman arm, control arms, etc.
You can buy all the parts to change your diff gears (ring, pinion, carrier, install kit) but you need special tools and know what your doing.
And if you throw in those 2.5" spacers and aal's, you'll have to lengthen the steering components to match; trackbar, pitman arm, control arms, etc.
You can buy all the parts to change your diff gears (ring, pinion, carrier, install kit) but you need special tools and know what your doing.
#13
Alright cool, thanks Matt! I'll probably get TGC's lift then since it'll be the same parts as the RC kit but for cheaper. As long as they don't charge to switch from spacers to the springs.
I'll go ahead and do this lift then and do my spacers later. Would this kit make it sit level already though? I just don't like the nose diving look.
And where would I get all them parts to change the gearing? I'll probably get all the parts and take it somewhere to have that done.
I'll go ahead and do this lift then and do my spacers later. Would this kit make it sit level already though? I just don't like the nose diving look.
And where would I get all them parts to change the gearing? I'll probably get all the parts and take it somewhere to have that done.
#14
For a street driven truck, that doesn't see much towing, stacking blocks is "ok"... (but I won't say that I recommend it.) if you tow, or off-road your truck, stacking blocks gives the tires a longer lever arm to twist the rear springs, leads to things like wheel hop, stressed/broken springs, etc. So, if you plan to do any towing/off-roading, try and avoid stacking blocks in the rear.
#15
For a street driven truck, that doesn't see much towing, stacking blocks is "ok"... (but I won't say that I recommend it.) if you tow, or off-road your truck, stacking blocks gives the tires a longer lever arm to twist the rear springs, leads to things like wheel hop, stressed/broken springs, etc. So, if you plan to do any towing/off-roading, try and avoid stacking blocks in the rear.
#16
#17
I can't go too much more expensive with the budget I have though. I'll talk to them though and see how much more it would be to go that way though.
If it's too much, i'll just stick with the stacking blocks and maybe weld them together. I'll have to check the torque a lot too on them just to be safe.
If it's too much, i'll just stick with the stacking blocks and maybe weld them together. I'll have to check the torque a lot too on them just to be safe.
#19
Yeah I might just actually do that. But you wouldn't know if that kit will make my truck sit level would you? I don't want to have a nose-diver again.
I have the 2.5" spacers but I guess i'll have to get other stuff if I put that on with the 5" lift too.
I have the 2.5" spacers but I guess i'll have to get other stuff if I put that on with the 5" lift too.
#20
You could check with TGC but I highly doubt they'd trade a set of spacers for lift springs...i bet they'd tack on another $150. That's the reason that kit is so cheap...a spacer that tall is just crappy and severely limits flex. Most lifts kits are designed to level the truck, so you could just sell the 2.5" spacer. Like I told you in the other thread, if you want a 1" rake throw in a pro comp 13120 leaf while you've got the rear apart. Can't go wrong for $40.