I don't believe you can use a timing light to check timing chain.

From what it sounds like your timing chain is off, because setting sync the way I described above should have made it run well, and from what you said, having to turn it away from the position seems to me like the timing chain is off.

 

find out whats missing. spark, or fuel. (injector pulse.) Not like I have never gotten a bad part right out of the box.

 

I was laying in bed and said the same thing!!! if im having to move the fuel sync in order to get it to run then something is off. but what i dont understand is how could i have messed it up? i remember taking it all apart, then i cranked engine over by hand till the dots were at 6-12. then i took off the old and put on the new... and they have keyways, so i mean how could i had got something wrong?
when i had the dots lined up, i know for a fact i didnt have it at tdc on compression stroke prob. i didnt check it cuz i read somewhere it didnt matter because of the keyways and all that, as long as you have the dots lined up. when i put it all back together afterwards it started right up and had no probs staying running. you can walk out there right now and the truck will start in under 1 sec.
*LIGHT BULB* earlier i didnt take the valve cover off when i put it at TDC, so i dunno if it was on the compression stroke, but i did take the cap off and the rotor was like an 1/8" or 1/4" past the #1 mark on the camshaft sensor... so i took the dizzy out to check the oil pump shaft and it was pretty much straight forward and back, it should of been skewed a little more towards the ac and #1 in my opinion... which if it would of been skewed like and 1/8 or 1/4" towards the ac like i think it should of been, then the rotor would of lined up perfectly with the number 1 on the cam sensor.
so is it possible when i reset the sync i did it with it a little off...like i said i started it after i reset it, and it fired off in about 1 sec like always, ran for 2 secs and died, i cranked it again and it fired right back off and it ran, and seemed fine, i drove maybe a mile before it all went to hell and i had to turn the dizzy to get it back to where i could get home.
let me know what yal think, i dont wanna tear it apart and look at the chain if i dont gotta, i mean if its keywayed and i had the dots lined up perfect which i know i did! then how can it be off? even if it wasnt at tdc at the time...and let me know what you think about the rotor being off that little bit, like i said i didnt take the valve cover off to make sure....which is prob where i ****ed up, i bet i was off one revolution...thanks guys, this has been driving me crazy for soooo long id love to get her fixed correctly.

 

ok guys so good news i had a helper this time and i took the valve cover off and stuck my thumb over the hole and got her to TDC o nthe compressions stroke for sure this time. the dizzy and rotor lined up perfectly! so i did the 30/30/30 trick and she fired right up and acted pretty good!

only bad thing is one of the mount holes for the cap to mount to the dizzy broke off, so i had to order a new dizzy. it comes with a new cam sensor and cap and rotor, so thats good.

but yes it ran and fired right up and stayed running i didnt have to adjust nothing this time. but it was a little rough, but it was because of the dizzy cap being a little loose on the side that broke, my helper pushed on it so it was down and tight and the roughness cleared right up, and when she let go, it came right back, so i know it will be fine when the new one gets here.

the real test will be when i try to drive up and over a hill with overdrive on though. but as far as i know right now, when she pushed the cap down and it cleared up, it felt very smooth!

so my questions is, could all this be caused by the original bad and loose chain throwin off the fuel sync? and when i put the new chain on the sync was still off? thanks for the help guys.

 

Yes the sync was probably off the whole time.

What a bad and loose chain does is throw valve timing off, and if that doesn't match the fuel sync everything goes wacko. With a bad chain you can't adjust sync to match no matter what.

 

got the new dizzy installed with the new cap,rotor,and cam sensor that all came as one assembly. i went ahead and put the new one in and then reset everything to TDC and did the 30-30-30 trick, and it appears all is FINALLY! well man, i knw thats what the prob. was but i never knew the little key trick to get it reset. thanks for the help.