ok would it be the same reading if i jacked the car up and ran it through the gears with axle free floating in air. also i do not have a 4x4 so no acccess but i have a big back window and some zipties to hold it all in place. thanks again i will let you know how it went. as much as i dislike computers sometimes it would be nice to just press a button and have a diagnosis. side note anyone know what asd relay does just found out my computer has like 6 codes all revolving around that.

 

if i pull drive shaft out will it still shift or am i just making matters worse at that point. just to clarify it would be for test only i do understand that you wont get out of drive way without one.

 

In all honesty, it sounds like your transmission is in need of some service. You should definitely drop the pan, change the fluid, change the filter, adjust the bands, and cross your fingers hoping that that will solve your issues, but it very well may be that the trans needs to be rebuilt yet those little things suggested could help.

Alot of places have used trannys for under 500 bucks with a short warranty if you are willing to do the work removing and reinstalling the trans should it not perform properly.

As to the strange sounds coming from the rear of your truck, I would say is the rear axle going out. The whirling sound is coming from your bearings most likely, and the click or clunk sound you are hearing is potentially attributed to the pinion shaft rattling against the pinion shaft lock bolt. When that lock bolt gets hit hard enough, it will shear (break off) and when it does, you will be losing an axle shaft along with the wheel attached to it since your truck, if it is a 1500, has semi floating axles.

You need to get a new rear axle before that happens. Junkyards should be able to supply you with one for around 300-500 with a warranty. Do this before you end up losing an axle shaft while driving down the road and having yourself an accident.

I know about this because I had that problem before. I had my rear end rebuilt and ended up spending around 1000 on the work only to have the rear end grenade on me driving down the freeway. Junkyards are by far better then rebuilders considering cost and quality. If you find a good donor truck or a decent low mileage unit from a yard, at least you'll have a good chance of getting something factory made that has never been molested for potentially less then half of the cost of having your original rebuilt which may not even be rebuildable depending on how worn out and tired of abuse it is...

 

The reading would be the same with the wheels off the ground. The ASD relay sends 12 volt signal to anything engine related needing keyed power. Coil, injectors, and alternator all come to mind right off hand. A wiring diagram consult would reveal the rest.

Also there's a trick I've learned for adjusting the front band. Since I deal with all sorts of different lever ratios (2.5, 2.9, 3.8, 4.2, 4.4, & 5.0) and some of their adjustments aren't listed because they're custom, I use a 3/8"gap tool. It was always recommended in the Sonnax super hold 2nd gear servo kit and I ignored it in my first few years of building these transmissions. Many headaches later with 2-3 flare or bind shifts and I started trying it. Low and behold perfect shifts nearly every time. Basically, find something that measures between .375-.400" and use it as a stop block between the lever and the servo pin. I usually pull on the lever by hand and try to pass the block between the end if the lever and pin, then adjust accordingly until it fits snug.

One last question, how tight did you go with the filter screws? They're supposed to be torqued to 37 inch pounds.

 

well I know its been a while but better late than never. no offense but I am really hoping you are wrong about my rear axle is there any way to diagnose before I start layaway at the junkyard. and for the torque on my filter I made em nice and tight with a torx hand screwdriver so that's probably close. but since I now know I will go ahead and break out in/lb torque wrench just to make sure they are up to par. and I am definitely going to use something to stop adj.screw for bands way better than my next plan (a measuring tape).I plugged my scanner in today and got 6 codes stored #1 dtc-43 spark ignition control circuit problem #2 dtc-42 asd relay circuit problem #3 dtc-47 battery voltage sensing circuit problem voltage too low #4dtc-21 02 sensor shorted too voltage signal too high#5 asd circuit problem again #6 dtc-47 battery problem again. my emission status is red and scanner shows cel / mil light on but its not, and its not burned out but the low wash is always on because of missing hose could he have just rewired the lights and then cut hose so it looks good.it just passed smog too. I also noticed as I was chasing a truck (that I watched do a hit and run) until he ended up side first into a concrete wall but in those few miles my truck didn't seem to have any issues at w.o.t even making corners it seemed to pick right back up into proper gear and shift appropriately. is there anything electrical at all that could affect tranny because I am suspiscious of the brake lights that have their own power straight from battery to em. also there are 3 electrical sensors on my tranny im gonna guess line pressure (by tv cable), governor (tailshaft ext housing), maybe connector for sensors in the transmission(round w/3 pins couple few inches behind tv cable ),they are all on drivers side. and the tailshaft just don't look right it has two holes in it that makes me think im missing crossmember and mount or something or have wrong transmission. anyways thank you guys very much I appreciate your time and all the information I can get.

 

Jack up the rear end, drop the driveshaft. Spin things by hand. If you have a bearing going, you should be able to feel it. Things should turn smoothly, might require a bit of effort though. If anything feels sticky, notchy, or crunchy, you have an issue.

I think you need to readjust the bands..... I don't recall which one deals with reverse... is that the front one?? (that would be nice...) If the rear band deals with forward gears, that one can be adjusted without dropping the pan.

 

The one by the shift linkage is park/neutral safety switch.

The one about half way back, is a three wire connector for TCC and O/D solenoids.

One at the very back is speed sensor.

 

Reverse and manual low are handled by the rear band. The front band is used in second gear.

 

So much for that thought.

 

ok i will re re re adjust to be safe but reverse is working great now 1-2 is good 2-3 is problem child along with 4 and lock up. i finally found a oil pressure gauge harder than i thought to find and im pretty sure i put in the wrong spot there was a screw passengerfront by cat. i unscrewed it and put in gauge hope its not too important of screw but the readings wouldnt read until 30 mph then it seemed to be close to psi=mph but was wrather erratic back and forth and if i gassed it it would drop hard and wen i pulled up to park it stayed at 30 for a few seconds then dropped to 0. if that means anything. i wil try and do it properly. theres also a connector in between return line for oil cooler and another one somewhere i forgot. i will add drain plug adjust bands tv cable re seal tailshaft and retest. then test rearend. then when it all failsi will just part it out. probably couldnt do it with good conscience i will just park for a while and save pennies. i will post update soon. also the wire to brake lights from battery was half broken rubbing on chasis so i fixed and will see if any codes changed.