By the way, copper champions (just replaced them again to avail), no DTC's since, no stored codes when I checked them today...

 

Wonder if you have an ignition module going bad...... does it feel like you are dropping some cylinders when it is gutless?

 

I'd thought about that... It definitely has a miss, and it smells like gas. I'm gonna change the oil this week, I'm concerned that I may have a leaking injector... but it holds rail pressure when the truck has been sitting. I shut it down and left it for like 20 minutes then depressed the schrader valve on the rail and it still had pressure and was full of fuel. But... It was like 40 degrees this morning and it took me 3 bouts of cranking 10-15 seconds to get it started this morning.. Once it started it ran better than it has lately, not well, but better. Seems like a fuel issue to me but I'm not positive at this point. I've been positive what was wrong with it so many times and so far I've been wrong every time.

 

If you can find modules in a junkyard nearby, should be able to get them nice and cheap. Try swapping out the one that runs four cylinders first, as I suspect that is the one that is failing.

Of course, could be a coil pack too..... Are you getting any misfire codes?

 

The 99's the module and coil pack are one unit... no external ignition module. I sourced a valve cover leak on the driver side this morning when checking the oil... Not enough to drip on the ground, and the oil isn't low. Could a vacuum leak cause these symptoms? I unhooked the CCV and created the vacuum leak in the intake, caused the idle to speed up. When I cap the opening in the intake truck runs just like it has. When I kick the throttle under the hood it backfires though the intake... ?

 

I would recommend to have a scanner hooked up and take a look at the data. Like are the crank and cam in sync. And see which cylinders are misfiring.

 

I know its been forever, my apologies, been super busy with school and stuff! Just wanted to update this thread for those searching. Bought a 1986 toyota 4 banger to drive in the interim and couple weekends ago got out the compression tester and ran the v10, lowest was 115 up to 140... mostly consistent +/- 10 PSI except the one low cylinder... All good. Pulled the valve covers, bolt on the cylinder 10 exhaust valve rocker was sheared off! Took me about 2 hours to get the bolt out (really tough angle to get the drill in there), then a 5/16 x 1 1/2 grade 8 bolt (65 cents) and got it put back together, it's a brand new truck! It pulls hard (hauled a big load of firewood last weekend) it pulls harder than my 7.3 PSD did stock! Averaging ~10 MPG daily driving city, up from about 7.5 before. Idles smooth, runs out good, cruises very smooth (sans the super out of balance and cupped Cooper STT's LOL). Need to replace one more 02 sensor (it was repeatedly fouling the left bank one, I assume because of the imbalance of exhaust gases with the cylinder 10 valve not opening). So, if you're having similar issues with your v10, pull the valve covers and check your rocker bolts, especially if they're those tiny 5/16 ones! I've got about 450 miles on it without problems so far, if it breaks again I'm switching to 3/8 studs.

 

Awesome! Glad ya got it fixed, and it wasn't 'too bad' of a repair.