Well the diagnostics I got from the shop and their dodge man was that the fuel trim both long and short trim are good and it is not setting a misfire code. The harmonic balancer looks like it's been replaced by PO. Probably chasing this vibration also. Does it with the serp belt off. Guess the only good thing is, I didn't have to pay for this diagnosis.

Would it be normal for the porcelain by the electrode to still be clean and white after 1500 to 2000 miles or should there be a light ash color? Maybe coil not producing good spark?

 

Coil checked out ok with ohm resistance. 1 ohm 2 small pins and 13,900 ohm from connector pin to top terminal. Will check injectors next. Idle seem to get more jittery after using seafoam through booster hose.???

 

Idle getting weird after seafoam would likely be the carbon burning off in the chambers.

 

Got a riddle for y'all. Hooked a good scan tool to my 01 today and it's showing misfires like crazy on 2,4,6 and every once in awhile on 1 and 3. Mostly it's #2 the most. If raise rpm's up little to like 1200rpm, then the misfires totally go away.

I've put champion spark plugs back in, once there finger tight I can't even get 1/8 of turn with ratchet, except #8. Did cap n rotor, both o2 sensors, replaced cat put a stock muffler on,new dealer PCV , new Belden wires. Put stock air hat on.

I'm taking it to shop saturday morn for further diagnostic's and fix. What would make it misfire only at idle? Oh and the tps showed 0 when it should have been 3 to 5 percent, don't know if that extrapolates into voltage on scan tool. Any thoughts?

 

How are the cap, rotor, plug wires? Got good connections on your injectors? Hows the plenum? Done a compression or leakdown test?

 

all new see above. compression numbers were all in the 180 /185, lowest was #7 at 177psi. haven't done leakdown yet. Doesn't use any oil or coolant.
Misfires at idle only whether it's warm or not. Doesn't ping or rattle under load at all and use 87 octane.

 

I don't think I saw any mention of inspecting sensors (idle air control, intake air charge, tps). Sometimes they may visually look ok, yet they fall out of tolerance. Remember, disconnecting any sensor or replacement, make sure negative on battery is disconnected first.

Also, your cap and rotor could be ok since new, but the sensor there (cam position sensor) might be awry. I only mention that with assumption all the other sensors are "good" and you saying wires routed correctly.

 

Has a new IAC from dealer. The tps is suspect, but mainly the misfires are on the even bank cylinders... I do have a factory tps ,scavenged from my totaled 01 that ran really good. It's going to a shop tomorrow morning that has the equipment and know how, so those other sensors will get a closer look then. Will let you know what they find and appreciate your comments.

 

Another thing I've noticed is there is no "pssst" sound when releasing the gas cap. I don't know how that would equate into light misfires on 2,4 and 6 cylinders and every once in awhile, 1 and 3. And then they they disappear at 1200 rpm's and up! There has been no CEL or any codes from on board diagnostic with the key thing. Hoping for a cure tomorrow and be able to pass on the info on to help someone else down the road.

 

I found an old TSB. But with I know, I would replace both cylinder heads. This has been a common problem with the 3.9,5.2 and the 5.9 engines after 70k. The cylinder heads will have a small crack between the valves causing the misfire. only at an idle. Also the fan belt tensioner is suppose to move a little. If it didn't move, the tensioner would be frozen.

NO: 18-48-98
SUBJECT: Ignition System Cross Fire/Secondary Ignition Wire Induction
DATE: Dec. 30, 1998
NOTE: THIS INFORMATION APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L, 5.2L, OR 5.9L ENGINE.
AB MODELS WILL BE ADDED LATER (NEW PARTS REQUIRED).


SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicles may exhibit one or more of the following:

Spark knock complaints when the vehicle is under load.
Various single cylinder misfire (1, 3, 7), especially 5 and/or 8.
Surge in 4th gear with the Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC) engaged (around 45 mph).
Perceived torque converter EMCC engagement/disengagement around 45 mph.
DIAGNOSIS:
Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS/MDS 2) or the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRB IIIŽ) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures Manual, verify all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If other than mentioned Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin. If no DTC’s are present or if the above symptoms/conditions have been described by the customer, perform the Repair Procedure.

NOTE: THIS REROUTING PROCEDURE SHOULD BE PERFORMED BEFORE ANY OTHER MISFIRE, SURGE, OR SPARK KNOCK REPAIRS ARE ATTEMPTED.

PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty Part No. Description
3 56028186 Clip, Single Wire
2 06503441 Clip, Wire To Hose (5.2L & 5.9L)
1 04364375 Convolute, 10 ft Roll


REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves rerouting the coil wire for all engines listed and rerouting the 4, 5, 7, and 8 plug wires for the 5.2/5.9L applications to minimize induction effects.

NOTE: IF WIRES MUST CROSS DURING THE REROUTE PROCEDURE, THEY MUST CROSS AT A 90O ANGLE.

5.2L AND 5.9L ENGINE PROCEDURES
Coil Wire Routing (Figure 1 and Figure 2)
Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap coil wire tower terminal.
Remove the coil wire from the rear five-wire clip, the center three-wire clip, and the front one-wire clip located along the lower side of the right valve cover.
Install three (3) one-wire clips p/n 56028186 along the top and front of the valve cover. Use the studs of the valve cover retaining bolts (Figure 1).
NOTE: SOME APPLICATIONS MAY ONLY HAVE STUD LOCATIONS FOR 3 OF THE ONE-WIRE CLIPS.

Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
Install the coil wire into the one-wire clips. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Cut the ignition wire convolute p/n 04364375 into three lengths 203 mm (8 in.), 101.5 mm (4 in.), and 82.5 mm (3.25 in.).
Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the one-wire clips. Install the 82.5 mm (3.25 in.) section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the 203 mm (8 in.) and the 101.5 mm (4 in.) sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold, in front of the oil pressure switch (Figure 2).
NOTE: THE COIL WIRE MUST BE A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) INCH AWAY FROM ANY OTHER IGNITION WIRES. THIS MAY REQUIRE THAT THE COIL WIRE BE ROUTED UNDER VACUUM AND/OR WIRE HARNESSES IN THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil wire tower terminal.
Position the original piece of coil wire convolute so it protects the wire against chafing with components at the rear of the engine.
No. 8 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Figure 3)
Remove the No. 8 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap tower terminal.
Remove the No. 8 cylinder plug wire from the five-wire clip located at the lower rear of the valve cover.
Route the No. 8 cylinder plug wire over the rear quarter of the right valve cover (Figure 3).
Position the original piece convolute from the No. 8 cylinder plug wire to prevent chafing at the right valve cover and with other engine components.
Secure the No. 8 cylinder plug wire and its convolute in place with the hose to wire clip p/n 06503441. The small end of the clip is positioned over the convolute. The large end of the clip is fastened to a heater hose (A/C line on ZJ models).
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 8 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS SECURE AND AWAY FROM THE COIL WIRE AND THE NO. 4 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE. MAKE CERTAIN IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN AND CONTACT THE CYLINDER HEAD AND/OR EXHAUST COMPONENTS.

Install the No. 8 cylinder plug wire to its distributor cap terminal.
No. 4 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Figure 4 and Figure 5)
Remove the No. 4 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap terminal.
At the three-wire clip (located at the center of the lower side of the right valve cover), keep the two wires from crossing and chafing each other. Position the No. 2 cylinder plug wire in the top wire slot and the No. 4 cylinder plug wire in the bottom wire slot. Leave the middle wire slot empty (Figure 5).
At the five-wire clip (located at the right rear lower side of the valve cover), keep the plug wires from crossing and chafing each other. Position the No. 4 cylinder plug wire in a slot that will obtain the maximum amount of distance allowable from the No. 8 cylinder plug wire (Figure 6). Remove any slack in the No. 4 cylinder plug wire between the three-wire and the five-wire clips.
NOTE: EARLIER MODEL FIVE-WIRE CLIPS LOOK SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT BUT THE SAME WIRING LAYOUT APPLIES.

Route the No. 4 cylinder plug wire behind the transmission dipstick tube and heater hoses. On ZJ models this may not be possible due to the location of the bulkhead.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT THE NO. 4 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS, AT LEAST ONE INCH, AWAY FROM THE NO. 8 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE.

Install the No. 4 cylinder plug wire to its distributor cap terminal (Figure 7).
No. 7 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Figure 8 and Figure 9)
Verify that the No. 7 cylinder plug wire crosses over the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the No. 3 and the No. 6 tower terminals (Figure 8). This is the original wire routing for 1998 and prior model years.
For 1999 M.Y. vehicles the No. 7 cylinder plug wire was shortened. Reroute the No. 7 cylinder plug wire so that it crosses the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the No. 6 and the No. 5 tower terminals (Figure 9).
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 7 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS, AT LEAST ONE INCH, AWAY FROM THE NO. 5 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE.

No. 5 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Figure 10)
Remove the No. 5 cylinder plug wire from its distributor cap terminal.
Remove the No. 5 cylinder plug wire from the five-wire clip located at the lower rear of the left valve cover.
Route the No. 5 cylinder plug wire over the left valve cover and in front of the breather tube elbow.
Position the original convolute from the No. 5 cylinder plug wire to prevent chafing against the valve cover and any engine components. Secure the small end of the hose to wire clip p/n 06503441 over the convolute. Secure the large end of the hose to wire clip to the breather hose.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 5 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS SECURE AND AWAY FROM THE NO. 7 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE. MAKE CERTAIN IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN AND CONTACT THE CYLINDER HEAD AND/OR EXHAUST COMPONENTS.

3.9L ENGINE
Coil Wire Routing (Figure 11 and Figure 12)
Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap tower terminal.
Remove the coil wire from the right rear five-wire clip, the center three wire clip and the front one-wire clip on the right valve cover.
Install three (3) one-wire clips p/n 56028186 along the top and front of the valve cover studs (Figure 11).
Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
Install the coil wire into the one-wire clips. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wireis loose from the valve cover (before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Cut the ignition wire convolute p/n 04364375 into three lengths. Two (2) at 101.5 mm (4 in.), and one (1) at 82.5 mm (3.25 in.).
Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the one-wire clips. Install the 82.5 mm (3.25 in.) section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the two 101.5 mm (4 in.) sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold, in front of the oil pressure switch (Figure 12).
NOTE: THE COIL WIRE MUST BE A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) INCH AWAY FROM ANY OTHER IGNITION WIRES. THIS MAY REQUIRE THAT THE COIL WIRE BE ROUTED UNDER VACUUM AND/OR WIRE HARNESSES IN THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil wire tower terminal.
Position the original piece of coil wire convolute so it protects the wire against chafing with components at the rear of the engine.