Few questions....Is the camshaft diff from a 318 and 360? (I don't think so) my auto teacher is wondering because he's worried about them being diff. The other thing he's worried about is the fact I have a electronically controlled engine and thinks a diff cam,(RV) will screw with my engine. I just want a cam mostly for mileage and maybe some power but mostly mileage. I've seen a few threads with cams in them and I'm thinking about those cams but I'll call around and see what specs I should have for my taste. I'm just wondering if anybody can help me out with my two questions. Thanks

 

We don't have flat tappet camshafts....

http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/index.html

 

Thanks WK for that info! I have my own question, with cash being a issue sorta with this build and the cams I've seen on summit being low $300 themselves, then new lifters, and diff springs, is it better to just run the stock cam and get 1.7's HR than a diff cam?

 

IMO, to answer that question lies in what your end goal is. Some ppl just like to pop on the easy stuff (b/c they are mostly to the exterior of the motor), only to find out later it's got limitations. Therefore, they want moar. Look at your end goal and your realistic budget. Include for things that you will probably have to redo not just 2x maybe 3x b/c of errors or other circumstances.

How will you use the rig? What is your target outcome? e.g., hp/tq numbers, mpg, towing, multi use, toy use, etc.

I added to my inside first that was within the bounds of my state's emissions and other regulations. Stock sleeper with the potential to add the exterior candy later.

 

Ok gotcha...I'd like to do the cam swap now and not later when the motor is together but with cash restriction, unless something happens, I guess the 1.7's are the next closest thing. I'll wait and see what happens. Will those 1.7's mess with anything overall? I know they add more lift but i'm sure my teacher will argue with me on installing them since they aren't "stock"....

 

Skip the 1.7 idea and get a cam. You have a sct so no big deal about the pcm not liking it, you will need a custom tune from Hemifever. If you still would like to use RR's just get them in the 1.6 ratio there is still power to be had from using a RR just from the loss of parasitic drag from the stock rockers.

 

See the thing is Merc I don't have enough cash laying around to get the cam, new valvesprings, and lifters. That's why I was wondering about the 1.7's, not trying to argue here I'm just trying to get an idea of things before it's too late to make up my mind...or don't I need new lifters? Some of this stuff is new with me and I don't know it all.

 

Yes if your replacing your cam you need to replace the lifters. Are you rebuilding your 360 that you bought? If you are aren't you replacing the heads with some of the EQ heads we showed you? If you are then as long as you don't go crazy the springs that come with the heads are fine. If you tell them how much lift your looking to run they will put higher lift springs in place of the standard ones.

 

These are roller lifter's you don't "have" to change them but it is a good idea. It's not like a flat tappet cam/lifter where the must be a new and broken in together. If you shop around the cam will only cost you a little more than the RR's and there will be a much bigger gain from the cam then the RR's. Its a whole lot ezer to put the cam in now than later, I would do everything to put the cam in now, heck even delay something for a bit if you had to.

 

Can the cam be replaced without removing the distributor?
If he has to remove the distributor he will need to have fuel sync set by the dealer, or someone with the proper equipment.
Which can add to the cost of the cam if he doesn't have access to proper equipment.

Dave