Man this truck is full of surprises, you try to fix one thing and it's never as easy as you see on YouTube or DIY.

So I'm trying to do my ball joints, because truck won't pass inspection, and I just started the drivers side, when I found out the bottom caliper bolt is rounded. It's so full of rust in there that it's done for. Now the problem is that I need to get it out. I'm trying vice grips but so far it only seems to slide. Any other ideas?

And the axle nut. Can I take out the steering knuckle while it's still together with the axle? Is it easy to put back on once it's done? I tried to unscrew the axle nut, but absolutely nothing. I don't have an impact gun, or else I think my life would be much easier atm.

 

So the inside of the bolt is rounded out? the allen key will no longer work. Pipe wrench maybe.

Yes you can take it out all in one piece.

 

axle nut - the hub bearing is bolted into the back of the steering knuckle with 3 12 point 14mm bolts. if you remove them, and IF the hub bearing will come out of the knuckle, then yes the hub bearing and axle will all come out together. however, sometimes the hub bearing gets rusted or seized into the knuckle and won't come out.

when reinserting the axle, note that you must GENTLY lift the end of the axle to get it over the seal, which is deep deep deep in the axle tube. if you just slam it in, the axle seal is easily damaged.

 

so im just gonna assume that I can't take anything off it. what happens if the hub won't come out of the knuckle?

 

If the caliper bolts are the same as 2WD, I can send you some for the price of postage. Drop me a PM if you're interested.

 

You need to be more determined than the hub. Chemicals are your friend. PB Blaster works pretty good. Spray it around the parting line where hub meets knuckle. Let it soak in for a bit. Some folks have had success with loosening the hub bolts, (but not removing them.) putting a socket and extension on one of the bolts, and then starting the engine, and using the power steering as a press to get it to break loose.

 

This works very well and fast, I don't even bother wasting my time doing it any other way now.

 

thanks for the help guys! it did work. Took a vice Grip after filing that bolt, and it worked. I ended up taking the whole hub with the axle attached, i checked inside and the seals are perfectly placed, no leaks.

now i ran into another problem.. my bottom ball joint is in there good. would heating it up work? i feel like i've been working forever on this truck, but sadly I can only do about 2 to 3 hours of work on it a day. and most of that time is spent realizing that I don't have the needed tools, and i have to run to the store and get them. oh the fail

 

Yes this is somewhat common. You will more than likely need a mini torch as one of those regular little handheld torch bottles prolly wont get it hot enough.

You must be carfull with the mini torch though. Try to heat the ball joint directly, if you get the steal that houses the ball joint to hot you can crack it and you will find yourself replacing another part.

 

alright so i will update this, in case somebody will search ball joints and read through the thread trying to figure out the same things as i did.

what i ended up doing was using vice grips and a breaker bar to get them to fall out. the ball joint service set I rented from Autozone was just done for. the edges were just rounded out and vice grips were the only way to get it to move.

i found this magnificent post online, where it said that it its a good idea to put your ball joints in the freezer overnight, so that you can make them have a tighter fit. I did just that, and before i put them in the freezer, they wouldn't go in. but after 24 hours, they went in about a quarter. I rented a new ball joint set from advance auto (this set was brand new, so i could fit a 22mm socket over it) and the ball joints went right in with no problem! now tomorrow I hope to finish reassembling my drivers side... then start on the other side.

but quick question, I have the moog balljoints, and i noticed the bottom stud to move pretty easy. its not like you flick it and it moves, but it moves without much effort. is that normal?