2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

engine rebuild questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 08:44 PM
  #1  
dieselsuburban95's Avatar
dieselsuburban95
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Default engine rebuild questions

I have a 1995 dodge ram 4x4 with a 360 that has a tired engine. I want to put a little bit bigger cam than what cam stock. I don't want to have to change springs or have problems with the computer any info would be great thanks.
 
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 08:58 PM
  #2  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,394
Likes: 4,213
From: Clayton MI
Default

Several folks make cams that don't require higher lift... but, given that you describe the engine as "tired", you can bet that the valve springs in there are as well. Considering what you are going to spend on a cam, another 100 bucks or so for new springs would be a wise investment.

Look for cams that are 'computer friendly' and do NOT require reprogramming. (they are out there. ) As you have a 95, you options in that realm are extremely limited. Might also want to look for a mopar performance PCM. That will widen your cam choice somewhat, and will give a nice kick in and of itself.

If you are going to tear the engine down, be warned in advance that it is highly likely that your heads are cracked between the valve seats. (lousy castings from the factory.) Spending money on the stockers is a waste. There are better made castings available out there. (clearwater, and odessa.) You can probably figure around 600 for some stock replacements.

How many miles on your current motor? Fixed the plenum yet?
 
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 09:06 PM
  #3  
dieselsuburban95's Avatar
dieselsuburban95
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Default

There is 222000 or so miles on it I just bought it a year ago or so I havent done anything to it
 
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 09:11 PM
  #4  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,394
Likes: 4,213
From: Clayton MI
Default

Oh.

read the plenum sticky at the top of this forum first. Then, do a compression check, see what the numbers look like. (dry first, then wet)

If compression numbers are decent, you might be able to do a bit of work, and drive it a few thousand more miles before a rebuild is absolutely necessary.

By the way, Welcome to DF!
 
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 09:15 PM
  #5  
dieselsuburban95's Avatar
dieselsuburban95
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Default

Thanks for the welcome im ready for the rebuild it doesnt have the power it should and its got water disappearing the truck dont smoke and no leaks but I have to put water in about once a week and it leaks oil preaty bad
 
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 10:35 PM
  #6  
dieselsuburban95's Avatar
dieselsuburban95
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Default

I looked on e bay at the aluminum plenum is it just the plate or is it more it said it was $60 or so just curious
 
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 11:03 PM
  #7  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,394
Likes: 4,213
From: Clayton MI
Default

Plate and bolts. Get your gaskets locally.

The mystery coolant loss... yeah, familiar with that. I think it is one of the freeze plugs in the back of the motor. (cleverly concealed by the trans....) I have the same problem, but, not quite to as great of an extent. Freeze plugs in these motors are steel from the factory. They weren't real strategically placed, and get crap trapped against them, and they rust out, and start leaking. Generally only under pressure. Took quite a while before a couple of them started leaking enough I could actually FIND the leak.... Bypass hose from water pump to intake manifold is also famous for leaking..... coolant pools on top of the timing cover, so, you can't see it.... and it really doesn't drip that much. Such fun.

What kind of budget do you have for this particular project?
 
Reply
Old Nov 18, 2013 | 07:17 AM
  #8  
dieselsuburban95's Avatar
dieselsuburban95
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Default

Ok so the plate is what I need ive never been in to these trucks very far never had to I do know there is a lot of oil coming from the rear main and it could be water also im on a tight budget im just buying stuff as I go and when I get everything imgona pull it out I have a friend that will vat the block for me and make sure everything is ok with it he is also going to do a valve job for me I pretty much know what to do I just dont know what to replace im doing a cam (wether stock or a little over) timing chain oil pump water pump and of course rering kit
 
Reply
Old Nov 18, 2013 | 11:52 AM
  #9  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,394
Likes: 4,213
From: Clayton MI
Default

If you can swing it, you really should simply replace the heads. They were problematic when they were new.

Cam
Timing set.
Valve springs. (if you don't replace the heads)
Rings and bearings.
Oil pump.
gaskets and seals. (of course)
Anything else that looks questionable on disassembly.
 
Reply
Old Nov 18, 2013 | 03:26 PM
  #10  
dieselsuburban95's Avatar
dieselsuburban95
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Default

So I should do valve springs regardless
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:39 PM.