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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:07 PM
  #11  
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Yeah I hit em and used a bit of heat.....some came out easy....4 broke. I'm sure the head peeps can get them out(hopefully).

Before I go any further, my concern is the 10 outside head bolts. Very rusted and in bad shape. 1 looks like its fused to the manifold and barely looks like a bolt head. The rest I literally chipped out rust to actually look like a bolt head

Let me know if this works. Real bad between the 2 and 4 plug.



If I cant get those out I would figure I'm basically screwed. Or if they break.

Any suggestions?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:20 PM
  #12  
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I don't think they will break on you but damn that is not going to be fun at all. Have standard and metric sockets on hand and just go at it. If this was mine, I would be looking hard at getting a long block. Do you have plans on getting the block head surfaces machined? I would think this is a must for what you have going on.

Best of luck bud and keep us informed as to what goes on.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:24 PM
  #13  
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You might try heating them up red with an oxy-acetylene torch to burn the crud off. I think I would just cut the bolt heads off with a torch and get them out after the heads are off.
 

Last edited by Arde; Nov 20, 2013 at 04:35 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #14  
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I'm with Merc on this. That head is all kinds of rusted and any machining they do to fix your issues, will still leave you with a badly rusted head. Check on pricing the whole job if you can, then check on getting a decent reman long block, or at the least reman heads.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #15  
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I wasn't planning on doing anything with the block..... I would imagine if the heads are good to go(BIG IF), the top of the block would be fine also.

Id just hate to heat up stuff to much as its aluminum. I guess I'll start with the easy looking ones ...lol.

Only heat I have is propane mini torch.

I might just have too look into a long block.....BUT this is sooo much fun.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:36 PM
  #16  
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I hope you're planning to pull the engine, and if not I highly recommend doing so.

Replace every bit of hardware, and when you do, just a super, super light coat of Anti-seize on every thread upon reassembly.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:43 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by stallion81
I wasn't planning on doing anything with the block..... I would imagine if the heads are good to go(BIG IF), the top of the block would be fine also.

Id just hate to heat up stuff to much as its aluminum. I guess I'll start with the easy looking ones ...lol.

Only heat I have is propane mini torch.

I might just have too look into a long block.....BUT this is sooo much fun.
The block and heads are iron, heat won't hurt them.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:43 PM
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The block and heads are iron, not aluminum. I never use heat on a motor/steering ever but thats me, either they will come out or they won't. If you do get the heads off there is a very high probability that they will be cracked between the valves so start looking for a new thicker casting heads.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 05:16 PM
  #19  
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Based upon the picture you posted, your engine is covered in rust like my original motor was. Mine was so bad that I decided to replace the whole engine instead of becoming frustrated with trying to unbolt parts off the rusted motor. My truck was originally used to plow snow and came with the factory snow plow option.

Replacing the engine in my truck was one of the best decisions I made and I can now work on the engine with ease. With the original engine, removing each valve cover, spark plug and exhaust manifold bolt was a royal pain due to rust.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 07:57 PM
  #20  
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Whats wrong with that guy =). Aluminum , under that 1/8 rust?

Well I got 8 for now, had to go grab some sockets. I should get the other 2.

Thanks for the help.
 
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