I'm gonna start a new thread about top end removal for all my annoying ?'s. Hopefully you guys can answer some of them. I think I'm gonna go all the way to the block with everything, maybe not the oil pan....maybe. I'm a carpenter not a mechanic so please bear with me(I can wrench on everything, just never did engine besides carbs valve covers and exhausts) . I'm searching the forum and using the downloaded PDF truck manual. Might grab a haynes =).

1st question. Intake manifold bolts, 10 out, front 2 snapped. Thats 3 so far as 1 broke in the TB, but figured I easy out it after manifold removal. It appears that the manifold is not threaded. Is this correct. Seams like it would be easier to get the bolts out after the manifold slides over them.

Does this seem feasible, if so are there any pry points to get the manifold broke loose? Also can I pull the cap and wires after? Seams more accessible that way.

Thanks. 5.9L gas in a 2001 Ram 2500 4x4.

 

Don't use an easy out. If you can't get them with a vise grip drill them out.

 

To answer your question, remove all of the bolts that secure the intake to the heads and block and the manifold can be removed. I would advise removing all of the spark plug wires, the fuel line, injectors the alternator, and the rest of the accessory drive pulleys. From there, it may be necessary to tap the intake with a rubber mallet a few times to get any sealant to break.

Once the intake is removed then the distributor can be accessed.

 

Eveything is off the truck besides the TB(1 bolt broke). Fuel line is off, but I left the rails on. I'll pull the wires. Can I pull the manifold with the D cap on? Nice place for the Dist I might add.

Thats what I was gonna use(vice grips and PB or heat on block) if I can slide the manifold over the 2 broken front bolts. They broke off about a 1/4" down in the manifold.

This truck was a plow truck and musta been sittin a while. Its only got 100K, but its oxidized and rusted all over the engine. Ive only had it a month(1K miles), now all the gaskets are blowin =)....lovely.

 

The intake can be removed with the distributor cap in place.

Pull the fuel rail anyway. There is no telling if it or any of the injectors have debris, plus it would be wise to replace all of the injector O-Rings (cheap insurance).

It would be easier to assist if you would post pictures of the situation.

 

No problem at all to pull the manifold with the broken bolts in there. Fuel rails and injectors are easier to deal with with the manifold off. Two O rings per injector.

 

In the FSM it will show and tell you where there is a spot to pry on to remove the intake manifold. Take all the parts/stuff off the intake with it still on the motor it makes things ezer as the intake it still attached to something solid not flopping around on the bench.

 

Thanks guys. Intake off, that was easy compared to the valve covers. I used everything from 11mm to 8mm and standards in between + vise grips.

I think I'm just gonna bring down the manifold,as is(I'll pull the plenum), with the heads and let a shop pull everything else...prolly gonna need a new fuel rail its rusty as hell. Some of the plug side injectors are corroding also(electric). See what they think about it =). The TB and intake are oxidized also so needs a good cleaning.

Gotta check the manual next, but I'm thinkin tension pully/coil bracket, power stearing pump bracket, then the exhaust. Should be down to the plugs, rockers and head bolts......thank goodness they are in the engine. Exhaust manifold bolts look sketchy to say the least. I shoulda shopped in the south.

I'm sure I'll be back for more at the heads and timing cover.Thanks.

 

Smack the exhaust bolts on the head with a hammer a couple times before trying to pull them You could also use some chemicals, but, they generally won't penetrate to where it really matters.

 

I used a hand held torch with map gas on each exhaust manifold bolt before I tried removing them. After a bit of heat they came out like butter.