Last winter, I go into a snow drift. Went to back out and turn my wheels to much while doing so in 4WD. Bad idea. Exploded the U-Joint on the left side in the front. Also ripped apart drive shaft on the ends because of hitting eachother and messed up the end of axle tube. I ordered a new slinger seal, found a old drive axle in a junkyard (which wasn't the right one since it was missing the collar for the slinger seal) and installed it after putting in new U-Joint. Yesterday,I heard a pop and then it sounded like a out of balance tire with a messed up transfer case. Went to check transfer case oil level and noticed the same front U-Joint was looking funny. Got a closer look and the cap looks to either have exploded or came out on one side of the joint. So the axle was way way off center and jerked around causing the unbalance and transfer case type noises. The retaining clip (obviously) was gone, so it may have just popped off and came out. I think this time was possibly due to a issue with the joint cap getting stuck when I replaced it last time and scraping metal out when I pushed it back out.

You all got any ideas for building up the inside for a tight fit? I thought about trying a idea from a machinist, which is putting small beads around the edge of the yoke and reaming or filing until almost flush with the original. Any extra would be skimmed off by the cap. Its something I do regularly on the farm for repairing shafts, etc that have been messed up by sloppy or ruined bearings on equipment. If thats all it would take, Ill set to it. Hopefully, my yokes are still good. Not a cheap thing to buy.m

For you guys that have done this before, Id advise that you don't drive to much if the U-Joint scraped out any metal and caused it to be loose. I have a suspicion that the retaining ring caught on the cap at some point and while it was rotating, shoved it off. Saves alot of trouble. I new axle assembly can cost 300.00+ new. Used are a PITA to find since nobody wants to sell just the axle.

 

What size of tires are you running?

 

33 in MT Baja ATZs.

 

I'm assuming you have a 1500 and I have no idea where youre located but I have a Dana 44 I'm trying to sell.

If it comes to that.... Hopefully it doesnt

 

Trouble is, the weld is going to be harder than the cap. (Trust me on this.) Only real way to remove material from the weld is with a carbide grinding bit. A file will take forever to remove anything at all.

Can you find replacement parts in the junkyard? Craigslist? Ebay? One of the members here??

 

Hmm, Ive never had to much trouble removing metal with a file. Like you say, I usually take a stone grinding bit to it (Don't have carbide except for dremel, I have a .125 end mill, but thats not good for this situation), and then file off remainder. Welds are hard, but if I can get close and use calipers to measure, I think I should be fine, right? I can find replacement parts, but like I said, its expensive. I think Ill try to fix this one first. Like you said, Ill take a stone, maybe carbide bit if I get one, to the weld and then file it for a smoother and more precise finish. I mean, whats to lose lol.

 

Yea, its 1500. I'm in NE, Missouri, I just haven't got around to detailing my profile. I hopefully don't need it, but Ill contact ya if I do and its not too far.

 

Before adding weld why not try the good old heat it cherry red and a fast quench in cold oil/water. I have used that a few times over the years for different things.