Twin turbo Ram(360)
Pull the manifold, get the aluminum plate from either hughes, or Ebay, to replace the steel plate that is there now, and then have someone weld it on. (aluminum welding is fun......) Cheaper than either of the other two. (probably by a good stretch....)
But yeah, it is not an inexpensive endeavor. You are looking at several thousand, even going with mostly used parts.
But yeah, it is not an inexpensive endeavor. You are looking at several thousand, even going with mostly used parts.
It is, for the most part. The only real quirk is the tube the goes between the fuel rails. Stock is too long, so, it comes with a 'new' one. So far as I know, that is the only modification you need to make.
The M1 on the other hand, IS a direct swap. Everything just bolts right up. Minor sticking point is.... need to drill and tap a hole for the IAT sensor.
The M1 on the other hand, IS a direct swap. Everything just bolts right up. Minor sticking point is.... need to drill and tap a hole for the IAT sensor.
P5007852 M1 intake, 2 bbl mpi, aluminum, single plane, magnum direct replacement, without EGR 1997-02 5.2/5.9 same height as stock manifold. $486.50
P5007638 Magnum intake manifold installation kit $69.95
Last edited by merc225hp; Jan 23, 2014 at 12:00 AM.
You can still get them new for $500.
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_p...s_2.htm#intake manifolds
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_p...s_2.htm#intake manifolds
Most performance supply/manufacturers will either mention it in the part description whether its for the LA style engines which is anything earlier then 93 or if its for the magnum style engines which are 318c.i.d./360 c.i.d. 93-01 Dakotas, 94/95-01 Ram 1500 and 2500/3500 360 c.i.d. gas jobs 94/95-02. I know when I went looking for a 408 crate engine for my 99 1500 all I found was the older LA engines that were stroked out.
My advice though along with what everyone else has been saying is whether you do it with the original or the donor would be build the bottom end(fully forged internals), a cam designed for boosted applications and upgrade the timing. As well as atleast a stage 2 shift kit cause as strong as the 46re can be, they do have a breaking point and the third gear solenoid likes to let go on stock Trans's that just see daily wear and tear. Plus I strongly, strongly recommend if you still are using the stock trac lock posi that the truck probably come with from the factory to upgrade to an aftermarket limited slip.
My advice though along with what everyone else has been saying is whether you do it with the original or the donor would be build the bottom end(fully forged internals), a cam designed for boosted applications and upgrade the timing. As well as atleast a stage 2 shift kit cause as strong as the 46re can be, they do have a breaking point and the third gear solenoid likes to let go on stock Trans's that just see daily wear and tear. Plus I strongly, strongly recommend if you still are using the stock trac lock posi that the truck probably come with from the factory to upgrade to an aftermarket limited slip.












