i used the mopar cast aluminum is a tad shorter than the 14x3 and will fot a 14x3 will not , i cant even get my s bolt on my mopar one the fire wall hold it on good enough . my durango however the engine sits up more ,i got the airgap for that as weell

 

It's definitely the plates, no cable interference, you can see,hear and feel the plates stick.
It is a magnum block and has new motor mounts, we measured both the keggar and FI intakes and the FI measured 1/4 taller, the shop was not equipped with the best measuring tools but we used the identical method to measure both heights, and the FI was higher. If the new motor mounts raise the engine there is no way to check this without pulling the engine.

 

I don't understand anything you said, nothing makes any sense.

 

Check and see if the throttle stop is out of adjustment. If the plates close too far, they will indeed bind.

 

Good thinking HeyYou.

 

Hughes has sent a new one to replace this one, who I first received it, I compared it to the OEM body and the new one you could see light shining through the gaps between the body and plates, the OEM exactly and completely closes and doesn't allow any light to pass through.they at that time said it was normal?

 

No idea. I think the plates in mine (stock) close pretty completely.

Stupid question time..... are you routing the cable for the throttle under the little plastic block on the linkage? Needs to be there so the cable pulls at an angle, otherwise, you will get binding at initial tip in......

 

Hey Guys, I posted a while back with some "issues" I was having after I installed The Hughes air gap intake manifold and big gulp throttle body. My "problem" was not being able to start it. As it turned out, someone had siphoned my gas tank dry. Well, I put ta locking cap on it, and havent had that problem happen again. The truck has been running pretty damn good. Only issue I have is the check engine light will not go off. I had gotten the sct tuner for it so that when I got my stroker in, I could program it to the stroker mods. I did not get the program for the stroker though. Im gonna do that once the stroker is in it. I got the programs just to take advantage of the current mods. So I can plug in the tuner and get the code, then I can clear the code. But as soon as I start the truck, it comes back on. I have tried replacing the I.A.C. sensor from autozone, oreillys, and advanced auto. All of them made the truck run very rough, or at very high idle. I put the original one back in and it runs almost perfect. There is a very slight variation in the idle (like from 800 to 1100). Barely noticeable. But I cant pass inspection with that damn check engine light on. Also noticed that when Im cruising along and get into the throttle, it gains speed beautifully. But if Im in like 2nd gear and I mash on it, it takes a few seconds to get up and go. Not sure what my issue is here. Hopefully one of you guys has an idea what my problem is. My truck is a daily driver and it gets up and goes every day. Its just this little hiccup I need to address, as my inspection runs out the end of July. Any suggestions are very much appreciated.

 

It seems like this is a topic of it's own, and not related to the Hughes FI-Airgap.

What code are you getting?

Higher idle, fluctuation idle, lagging throttle response, random miss-fire, are signs I've seen with a failing crank position sensor... if you have high mileage (100K+) on the CPS, change it... it makes a world of difference.

 

The truck does have 192,000 miles on it. I have never replaced the crank position sensor. I will go ahead and do that. The code its throwing is I believe p505. not positive on that though. I didnt know how to start a new thread. Thats the only reason I posted on this thread, which i started months ago. But I will replace the CPS sensor right away and see what that does.