Alright, well I just got a 98 ram 1500. I took the system out of my 94 so I could put it in the 98. It all hooked up the same except one wire. The 94 has a ground with a circle ring on the end the goes to the screw in the back of my stereo. But the 98 has(what I assume is the ground) a clip(kinda, looks like a clip, but doesnt actually clip) that slides onto an arm that sticks out the back of the factory radio case.(looks somthing like this """"\____/"""" The low part being the back of the radio and the high being the arms) So anyways, I just cut the end of the supposed ground and wrapped it around the screw on the new radio. Radio works good, amp comes on and the subs bump. But then when I Try to start the car all I get is the constant clicking sound. Sounds like the battery is dead, just louder. I tested the battery and im getting a solid 11.5v. I unhooked the stereo and it didnt change anything. I checked the ignition, radio and engine fuses in the cab(check the rest tomorrow) but they was all good. The only thing I can think of is that wire I cut being part of the anti-theft, but im just spit-balling. Well thanks in advance for all yalls help and I really hope to figure this out soon. Be nice to actually be able to drive my truck!!!

 

What's clicking? The starter relay, or the solenoid on the starter? Will it start with a jump? Or, barring that, put a charger on the battery for an hour or so, and try again.

 

Its the solenoid thats clicking, and I just tried to jump it. If I give it some gas then I get it started, otherwise it sounds as though my batterys dead. But as soon as I let off the gas it dies instantly. But when I tested my battery it was showing an 11.5v read. So It aint my battery is it? Could it be the alternator, I took the one out of my 94 witch is only 90amp, as opposed to the 130 something that came with it. But there is a 90amp alt available for the year. So i dont know, Bout to go check the fuses to see if its something nice and simple like that!!!

 

Well I had someone take the cables off so I could keep the gas going, everytime It dropped to about 1500rpms it would try to die so I had to keep it around 2000rpms for about 2-3mins before I could ease of the gas without it trying to die. I got it running now(almost scared to turn it off!) so it can charge up. Ill let you know if starts up again after a bit. So you thinking alt or bat, or something in between?

 

11.5 Is way too low. You need a solid 12.4V to start

 

Right on, I left it running for about a 30min, turned her off, wont start again. I guess ill yank out the batt and alt and so i can take them to autozone and test'em both. Ill get back to yall, probably wont be till tomorrow.

 

Sounds like a voltage regulator. I just had this same problem on a 1977 VW Bus. Would start up on brand new battery (or freshly charged one), but after you drove it and shut it off, wouldn't start. Battery tested at 11.4v when it wouldn't start. Threw a new voltage regulator in, jump started it and problem solved. If your alternator tests good, I'd look at that regulator. I don't know where it's located though,,,on the back of the alternator or maybe it's just in the PCM. If it's in the PCM, my knowledge ends there.

 

Regulator is in the PCM.....

 

These trucks are finnicky when it comes to voltage and the battery. I have ran mine down a couple times and you have to keep it revved up for about 3-4 minutes before it will idle again. Otherwise it just wants to die on you, part of the regulator being in the PCM.



I would pull the covers on the battery and check the water level, fill up any low cells and throw it on a trickle charger. May be nothing more than you discharged the battery too far and it used some water. Sounds like the battery may be a bit undersized as well, but before throwing parts at it I would check the battery. Alternator shouldn't be a problem if it was working prior to the radio swap.

 

Well the battery and alternator both checked out at autozone. The battery has 840cc, should be plenty big enough. Im gonna go ahead and check all the fuses.(gotta stay positive right!) There aint anyway to fix the voltage regulator without replacing the PCM is there? Thats $200 I aint got!