And those that have any experience with them.

I think I spun a rod bearing last weekend on my stock 97 360. I plan on building a stroker (4") for this truck, but money won't let me build it all at once right now, and I need to keep this poor thing going.
My question is; with standard dished pistons, forged rods and 4" stroke crank, would any machine work need to be done for clearance? I know this is backwards of a normal nickel and dime build, but starting at the bottom and working up is looking good at the moment. Any input is appreciated.

 

Any clearance work needed, you could probably do with a die grinder, or dremel.... Are you going to assemble the short block? Or have the machine shop do it? (I would at least have the machine shop check the block out....)

 

At this point I'm strongly considering just lifting the motor out of the engine bay enough to change the crank and accessories. The block has about 80,000 miles since a rebuild and was thoroughly checked at that time. My problem with the bearing right now is a plugged oil pickup screen. I did the plenum a few months ago and started having oil pressure issues.
Since this was my only transportation I was babying it until I had a free weekend to drop the pan and clean it. Now that I have time, it does this (grrrr). Thankfully I got a decent deal on an first gen Cummins recently, so that is now my main ride... At least until this is fixed.
As always, thanks for the quick reply!!!

 

Lol. Change the crank.
Yes, you only need to lift it enough to get the pan off. Easy swap.
No sense in pulling the engine right out for such a job.
Probably leave it connected to the transmission also. Save time that way.

 

Might be able to drop the crank without unbolting the trans..... But, you cannot pull the pistons out the bottom of the block, so you can change rods/pistons for a stroker kit. Would have to pull heads as well.

 

Yep gotta get shorter rods or your piston will be up in your head

 

Thanks for the laugh this morning you guys. I'd like to see a video of pulling the crank out with a manual trans still attached. Might make some good money off of it lol.

On a more serious note, why can't you pull the pistons out of the bottom? I've done it before on Chevy's, but I haven't had a Mopar opened up that far yet. Is there other stuff in the way after the oil pump and crank are out... Besides the front diff?

 

Manual trans? Yep, gonna have to move the motor, or trans. One or the other.

 

Whether you can pull them out the bottom or not, IDK, but you're not gonna put'em back in that way. Be a lot easier, and probably faster, to just pull that engine out and put it on a stand.

 

Sounds like to much trouble. Just pull the whole thing, way easier to work on.

In my opinion, I would not build another dodge stroker for a 2nd gen ram. It's just to much of a hassle, and not worth the money. I have built many 383 chevys that run way better for less money.

We just don't have enough aftermarket support for these 2nd gen's. SUCKS!!!!

Budget and 408 do not go together.