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need help. built a 318 but its tight cranking over wont start!

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  #11  
Old 11-13-2014, 08:25 AM
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Pull the spark plugs, see if you can turn the motor by hand.
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:33 AM
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I stopped using plasti-gauge many years ago its an unreliable way to get clearances, mic it to get your specs.
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
I stopped using plasti-gauge many years ago its an unreliable way to get clearances, mic it to get your specs.
That'll work for crank diameter, but, getting the bearing measurements is going to be a bit more tricky. I have never had a problem with Plasti-gage.... it gets you in the ballpark at least.
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:01 PM
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I use a dial bore gauge and a micrometer, some math hands down the best way. More work and time yes and thats fine as I only want to do this once and not be replacing expensive parts.

Edit to add; C/P form Mahle web site. http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/c125790900540ac0/vwcontentbyunid/8b0ad29525ad100ac1257a79006f8720/$file/cl77-1-205r.pdf

For these reasons, bearing clearances are specified as “vertical clearance” and must be measured at 90 degrees to the split line. The best method of measurement is with a dial bore gage that measures the bearing inside diameter when the bearings are installed at the specified torque without the shaft in place. Measurements should be taken at front, center, and rear of each bearing position. Another common method of checking clearance is through the use of CLEVITE 77® Plastigage®.
 

Last edited by merc225hp; 11-13-2014 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:19 PM
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Is the quote button broken for anyone else?

Dial Bore gauge is indeed an excellent idea.
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1997JollyGreenGiant
Didn't you turn the engine over by hand while building it? How hard was the crank to turn then?
sorta hard didn't question me till my starter had problems. um its def tighter than old one i thought that had to do with new rings and being a high compression motor. i got it to spin faster by fixing some electrical issues.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:28 AM
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Yes Merc using a micrometer is better but some of us don't have all the needed items.
I have never had an issue using plasti-gauge on the engines I have built but maybe I have just been lucky.

If you have electrical issues you need to get them all addressed before you try starting the engine. What compression are you running? 10:1? 11:1? It will have to be 11:1 or higher to be so high you have issues turning it over with.
 

Last edited by Wildman4x4nut; 11-14-2014 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildman4x4nut
Yes Merc using a micrometer is better but some of us don't have all the needed items.
I have never had an issue using plasti-gauge on the engines I have built but maybe I have just been lucky.

If you have electrical issues you need to get them all addressed before you try starting the engine. What compression are you running? 10:1? 11:1? It will have to be 11:1 or higher to be so high you have issues turning it over with.
this.


what compression are you running? Do you know?
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:33 AM
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The proper tool for the job is about $150 a new crank costs what to replace?? $150 is a good investment in my book. By the way a stock starter will spin a high comp maggy motor over just fine, they are after all a reduction starter.
 
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
The proper tool for the job is about $150 a new crank costs what to replace?? $150 is a good investment in my book. By the way a stock starter will spin a high comp maggy motor over just fine, they are after all a reduction starter.
awesome thanks so much. im going to pull the motor tm once i get it to my garage and masure ill let u guys know the specs. im going to be using plasti gauge and dial bore tool and micrometer idk im only 18 learning this stuff as i go id rather mesaure it than spin a barring. lol even tho the machine shop is at fault id rather be safe than sorry. could is crank slow because of a wire nightmare? i have wires going into bolts as a splice and i dont think thats very good lol i wanna try replacing it all as one wire and **** i think its drawing too much there for the starter to keep cranking. also 1 more thing, how tight by hand should a new bored 30 over 318 be? i needed a long breaker bar and i put a good amount of force to crank it but it kept getting easier when i did the torc convertor bolts lol
 


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