need help. built a 318 but its tight cranking over wont start!
#11
#13
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That'll work for crank diameter, but, getting the bearing measurements is going to be a bit more tricky. I have never had a problem with Plasti-gage.... it gets you in the ballpark at least.
#14
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I use a dial bore gauge and a micrometer, some math hands down the best way. More work and time yes and thats fine as I only want to do this once and not be replacing expensive parts.
Edit to add; C/P form Mahle web site. http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/c125790900540ac0/vwcontentbyunid/8b0ad29525ad100ac1257a79006f8720/$file/cl77-1-205r.pdf
For these reasons, bearing clearances are specified as “vertical clearance” and must be measured at 90 degrees to the split line. The best method of measurement is with a dial bore gage that measures the bearing inside diameter when the bearings are installed at the specified torque without the shaft in place. Measurements should be taken at front, center, and rear of each bearing position. Another common method of checking clearance is through the use of CLEVITE 77® Plastigage®.
Edit to add; C/P form Mahle web site. http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/c125790900540ac0/vwcontentbyunid/8b0ad29525ad100ac1257a79006f8720/$file/cl77-1-205r.pdf
For these reasons, bearing clearances are specified as “vertical clearance” and must be measured at 90 degrees to the split line. The best method of measurement is with a dial bore gage that measures the bearing inside diameter when the bearings are installed at the specified torque without the shaft in place. Measurements should be taken at front, center, and rear of each bearing position. Another common method of checking clearance is through the use of CLEVITE 77® Plastigage®.
Last edited by merc225hp; 11-13-2014 at 08:21 PM.
#15
#16
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sorta hard didn't question me till my starter had problems. um its def tighter than old one i thought that had to do with new rings and being a high compression motor. i got it to spin faster by fixing some electrical issues.
#17
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Yes Merc using a micrometer is better but some of us don't have all the needed items.
I have never had an issue using plasti-gauge on the engines I have built but maybe I have just been lucky.
If you have electrical issues you need to get them all addressed before you try starting the engine. What compression are you running? 10:1? 11:1? It will have to be 11:1 or higher to be so high you have issues turning it over with.
I have never had an issue using plasti-gauge on the engines I have built but maybe I have just been lucky.
If you have electrical issues you need to get them all addressed before you try starting the engine. What compression are you running? 10:1? 11:1? It will have to be 11:1 or higher to be so high you have issues turning it over with.
Last edited by Wildman4x4nut; 11-14-2014 at 09:33 AM.
#18
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Yes Merc using a micrometer is better but some of us don't have all the needed items.
I have never had an issue using plasti-gauge on the engines I have built but maybe I have just been lucky.
If you have electrical issues you need to get them all addressed before you try starting the engine. What compression are you running? 10:1? 11:1? It will have to be 11:1 or higher to be so high you have issues turning it over with.
I have never had an issue using plasti-gauge on the engines I have built but maybe I have just been lucky.
If you have electrical issues you need to get them all addressed before you try starting the engine. What compression are you running? 10:1? 11:1? It will have to be 11:1 or higher to be so high you have issues turning it over with.
what compression are you running? Do you know?
#19
#20
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awesome thanks so much. im going to pull the motor tm once i get it to my garage and masure ill let u guys know the specs. im going to be using plasti gauge and dial bore tool and micrometer idk im only 18 learning this stuff as i go id rather mesaure it than spin a barring. lol even tho the machine shop is at fault id rather be safe than sorry. could is crank slow because of a wire nightmare? i have wires going into bolts as a splice and i dont think thats very good lol i wanna try replacing it all as one wire and **** i think its drawing too much there for the starter to keep cranking. also 1 more thing, how tight by hand should a new bored 30 over 318 be? i needed a long breaker bar and i put a good amount of force to crank it but it kept getting easier when i did the torc convertor bolts lol