Timing chain replacement, can't turn crankshaft
#11
Why not? I have been doing it that way for decades, and it's never been a problem.
#13
I Edited my post and removed the degree suggestion, it's only a chain replacement.
But it does look a link off.
Straight up at TDC # 1 works as long as NOTHING is moved...The real question is why won't it roll over.
#14
And one that REALLY needs an answer, before going much further. Gotta be something binding up somewhere.......
#15
I don't know why it would stop turning over. If it was working fine before hand..... Not much there that could just randomly bind up for no reason.
#16
Thanks everyone for the great response. A lot of good feedback here, I really appreciate it. It reinforces what I thought I understood and explains some things I wasn't exactly clear on.
I was going to drop the oil pan anyway to replace the rear seals and the oil pump and screen, I'll see if that uncovers the reason for the stunk crank. I have a nagging suspicion something happened to the flywheel while I was trying to hold it steady to break the damper bolt. I'll get as good a look at that as I can.
I'll be sure to post when I find the culprit.
I was going to drop the oil pan anyway to replace the rear seals and the oil pump and screen, I'll see if that uncovers the reason for the stunk crank. I have a nagging suspicion something happened to the flywheel while I was trying to hold it steady to break the damper bolt. I'll get as good a look at that as I can.
I'll be sure to post when I find the culprit.
#17
Yep It is obviously a link off. Wonder if the previous guy was trying to set it to the "advanced timing" setting that some gear sets come with.
I don't know why it would stop turning over. If it was working fine before hand..... Not much there that could just randomly bind up for no reason.
I don't know why it would stop turning over. If it was working fine before hand..... Not much there that could just randomly bind up for no reason.
First time I did a cam swap with the heads on I did everything wrong...Thank God I didn't button it up and try to start it.
Hell Mr. valve, I'm Mr. piston...
Just thinking here...I've only wrenched on my Dakota, my 98 Ram is box stock....But for the motor to roll over doesn't it have to be in neutral?
#19
Thanks everyone for the great response. A lot of good feedback here, I really appreciate it. It reinforces what I thought I understood and explains some things I wasn't exactly clear on.
I was going to drop the oil pan anyway to replace the rear seals and the oil pump and screen, I'll see if that uncovers the reason for the stunk crank. I have a nagging suspicion something happened to the flywheel while I was trying to hold it steady to break the damper bolt. I'll get as good a look at that as I can.
I'll be sure to post when I find the culprit.
I was going to drop the oil pan anyway to replace the rear seals and the oil pump and screen, I'll see if that uncovers the reason for the stunk crank. I have a nagging suspicion something happened to the flywheel while I was trying to hold it steady to break the damper bolt. I'll get as good a look at that as I can.
I'll be sure to post when I find the culprit.
Something tells me that you have just found the issue - I suspect that the flexplate may be bent enough to cause the crank assembly to bind up, if you tried to wedge it in place with a screwdriver or prybar while removing the crank bolt. Something to check before dropping the oil pan.. For what its worth, I remove crank bolts with an impact wrench - works every time..
Last edited by AtomicDog; 12-15-2014 at 11:54 PM.