Go with the Pacesetter long tubes. You can either get the custom Y-pipe for them, or just do true duals. (2.25-2.5 inch pipe for duals. 3" for single) Give you more bang for you buck than shorties.

If you are going to rebuild your engine, might just as well punch it out .030, replace pistons/rings, etc, and add a nice cam. You will need a custom tune with that too.....

I wouldn't go much higher than stock on compression ratio. Unless you want to be required to run high-octane fuel.

 

Depends on your set-up. Cant go wrong with Gibson shorties IMO. They are just great headers. The longtubes HY mentioned are a good option too, though if 4x4 theres been reports of clearance issues. Yes you will NEED to upgrade to good quality forged pistons. Same with rods (yes they are forged already but you will need better quality ones). IMO. Merc should chime in on this

 

I'm using JBA coated shortys and I'm very pleased with them. As for pistons, if you are planning to stroke the engine to 408 cubic inches, check out this kit, which provides pistons, rods, crank, rings and bearings.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-360-408-SCAT-STROKER-KIT-Hypereutectic-Dish-Pist-I-Beam-Rods/330809199712?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140407115239%26meid%3Deb76d3861bb040d4be040385b6e7e843%26pid%3D100204%26prg%3D20140407115239%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D290635586220

A Hypereutectic piston will do just fine for this application. If you want an all-out engine, you can spend the extra cash on forged pistons.

 

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IMO...shorty headers are worthless, and I've never heard of a stock crank or stock rods breaking. I beat on a stock bottom 360 for years, it hit 7000 rpm every pass and nothing ever broke, and I know guys running 10s on a stock bottom end...If you must, upgrade the rod bolts, but the block will die before a properly tuned Magnum bottom end will, the weak link on Magnum motor is the top end, heads and the mega weak valve springs.

 

Thanks yall! Im eventually going to do a lot of work to it but still have a lot of questions, like lifts and stuff like that.. Looks like i have 2" blocks in the back but no coil spacers, im looking at the rough country 2.5" suspension, will that only lift the truck 0.5" seeing i already have blocks in the back? Just trying to see if $200 would be worth it for the 2.5"... And im thinking about going wider with my wheels but a bunch of people say I cant go down to 15" from 17" because I might rub my calipers, So in that case should I just use wheel spacers?

http://www.roughcountry.com/dodge-su...-kit-362h.html

 

Blocks in the rear are stock. That's the way it comes from the factory. So, any lift kit you get, will indeed give you some lift. Most kits also level the truck, so, you don't get as much lift in back, as you do in front.

The kit you link though.. does indeed lift the rear as well. Stacking blocks though... which is something I have always been taught was a bad idea..... seems all the manufacturers do it on the dodges though. Not sure how to reconcile that. I would be far more tempted to spend a bit more, get taller springs in front, and an AAL in the rear. (add a leaf) No stacking blocks that way.

I don't like spacers either. 15" rims I think will fit, (aluminum may not....) but from what I have read, the clearance issues are with the tie rod. No direct experience there though. Rumor has it, you may have to grind the caliper a bit for clearance.....

Why do you want to go to a smaller diameter rim?

 

15" steel wheels with 4" backspacing fit = no rub on the caliper .

 

Op a good set of heads, cam, RR's, intake manifold. Start to bump up the comp ratio to much a crank might be in your future. 5.2/5.9 bottom ends are strong but not indestructible.

As for headers, we know that the Pacesetter longtube headers have fitment problems on the 4wd trucks. So what longtube headers are out there that fit right and are not over $400? Spintech, a set of Doug Thorley Tri Y for a Dakota? I will take the Gibson/Jba short tube headers over the stock exhaust manifolds any day of the week.

 

Smaller rim because i can go wider and tires are A LOT cheaper lol

 

The stock rotating assembly is tough as nails, guys are running 16 lbs of boost on em, no problem, the rod bolts are the weak part, those need upgrading and the block will probably split before the crank/rods even start to get worried.


It's all about the tune.