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1997 Ram 2500 Crank Position Sensor

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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 08:23 PM
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Question 1997 Ram 2500 Crank Position Sensor

I have a 1997 Ram 2500 4x4 with 5.9L Auto. Have a issue where it starts, runs for 5-10 minutes, then shuts down. Throws code P0320 now. Previous it also threw code P1391. I have replaced the IAC, TPS, cleaned throttle body, Fuel Pump and battery. Also have the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). The truck will start after resetting the PCM, (disconnect battery and turn headlights on for 30 minutes). It runs great, then shuts down and won't start until I reset the PCM or wait a day. My problem with the CPS is that I cannot reach it with my short fat arms. It is on the top passenger side of the bell housing. From the bottom the exhaust pipe and Transmission filler tube are in the way. From the top I can't even see it. The nearest shop is 50 miles away, so I am kind of stuck doing this myself. Does anyone know of a trick to make this easy? I am thinking that taking of the Intake manifold will give me room and visibility. Taking the transmission out would work too, but that is a bit more work.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:16 PM
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You'd have great access with the intake off . As good as it gets

Sux to have to go that way but a great time to do the plenum gasket
 
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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You can actually get it with a ratchet, and six inch extension from on top. You just feel around with one hand, and use the other to run the ratchet. Expect to bleed on this job. Lots of fun stuff around there to slice you up......
 
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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Thanks, you are one good Mason! That's what I thought too. Any reason I should consider changing the Pickup coil? The truck runs great, when it runs. Any advice on removing the Intake, it looks straight forward, but sometimes there are things you don't expect. I miss the cars of the 60's and 70's.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:22 PM
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That would work for getting it out, but putting the bolts back in looks nearly impossible. Maybe taking off the passenger side valve cover would give me just enough room. Just looking at it, the intake doesn't seem too rough to take off, just a little draining of the radiator, some brackets and 14 bolts. But it should give a great view of all the great stuff on the back side of the engine. Sound like the Plenum gasket is a problem waiting to happen anyway.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 11:53 PM
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I hate, hate working on the 5.9 in my Ram 2500, 1/4 of the motor is under the wiper cowl, it's way easier to work on the 5.9 in my Dakota, being that the Dakota is a smaller truck you would think the opposite is true, but nope, it's all right there.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeleino
Thanks, you are one good Mason! That's what I thought too. Any reason I should consider changing the Pickup coil? The truck runs great, when it runs. Any advice on removing the Intake, it looks straight forward, but sometimes there are things you don't expect. I miss the cars of the 60's and 70's.
It's pretty straight forward . The wiring is simple , only plug in's that are alike are the injectors . They do really fall into place but label them anyways .

The vacuum lines I like to take reference pics JIC . Always handle old plastic lines with care . Age/heat make the brittle . Replacement with rubber lines is an option .

Remove the coolant sensor one the system is drained . They are easily broken , and kinda important . Also note the oil pressure switch when removing/installing the intake . I like to replace those anyways but not needed in most cases .

The front alt/ac bracket comes off all together , just unplug the connections , and swing it to the pass side .

Replace the by pass hose from the intake to water pump .

I wouldn't replace any other sensors .

Do the plenum gasket . It's preferred to get an aluminum plate and a felpro gasket . I've done with just the gasket but use a skim of anaerobic gasket maker and have no leaks after 5 years . Clean the throttle body also . Use caution with the IAC , no twisting/turn of the pintle , just spray and use the toothbrush gently .

With everything out of the way for easy access , and if not done before , consider the following . No better time IMO .
waterpump
timing chain and cover gasket .
crank seal .

I also go through about 2 cans of carb/combustion chamber cleaner and use an old toothbrush .
 
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 01:15 PM
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Removing the intake does not make this job much easier at all. I find it much easier to replace the CKPS from under the truck, you can see it and reach it much better than going over the top of the motor.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
Removing the intake does not make this job much easier at all. I find it much easier to replace the CKPS from under the truck, you can see it and reach it much better than going over the top of the motor.
Merc , it takes me 10 minutes to change a CPS from the top . It's not for everyone . OP already said he couldn't see getting at it from the bottom . For you and me , great . I gather the OP has some physical limitations preventing him from doing it our preferred ways

Last engine I installed , it had no intake on it . I installed the crank sensor after it was bolted in . It was easy to do with the intake outta the way .
 
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
...I find it much easier to replace the CKPS from under the truck, you can see it and reach it much better than going over the top of the motor.
+1 on this... whether on a hoist or on the ground, from below is an easier reach than over the top... top access you essentially have to lay in the engine bay, to have the reach to get in behind the head.
I've never found laying in/over the engine a comfortable or practice position.
Fan and shroud out and stand in the front, yes... but laying over it, no.
 
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