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Replacing transmission

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  #1  
Old 02-12-2015, 05:28 PM
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Default Replacing transmission

Hopefully gonna be installing my new (to me) transmission in my 2001 Ram 5.2 (2wd) this weekend and just wanted to see if there were any special considerations when putting it in. Anything need to be aligned or anything I need to pay special attention to? I read someplace that the oil pump needs to be primed. What is the procedure for that? The oil has been drained and the filter removed. I am not doing the work because of my back and joints (degenerative disc disease) but my buddy is. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:40 PM
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Take out the crank position sensor before doing anything with the trans. Reinstall at after the trans is in place.

Prime the pump? Never had to do that.....
 
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Old 02-12-2015, 07:45 PM
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I am gonna replace the crank sensor anyway, so that is good anyway.
 
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:22 PM
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The torque converters in our trans have a short life. Are you installing a used one?
 
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:31 PM
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first check that converter is far enough back. measure from the trans front to the converter drive lug, should be at least 1/2 inch back. this is VERY important. here is an EXTERANL filter, i found. have one on my 01 dak. my idea is when you put a new filter in side this one will help from having to do the inside one as often.*
the old auto zone 2210 magenfine filter is no longer available at auto zone. BUT i did find the same thing as JX-160 brand-- ATP. at a real parts house uses 3/8" tube. ONLY use high pressure hose. SAE J1019 217 psi working. NOT fuel hose for a carb engine.
 
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Old 02-12-2015, 09:32 PM
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Beeker, the torque converter I got is from the donor vehicle (the donor is a 2500, 5.9. Mine is a 1500, 5.2. Both 2001 models). I was told to use the converter from the donor since they are balanced differently from the 1500s and I would be fine.
 
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Old 02-12-2015, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by moe7404
first check that converter is far enough back. measure from the trans front to the converter drive lug, should be at least 1/2 inch back. this is VERY important. here is an EXTERANL filter, i found. have one on my 01 dak. my idea is when you put a new filter in side this one will help from having to do the inside one as often.*
the old auto zone 2210 magenfine filter is no longer available at auto zone. BUT i did find the same thing as JX-160 brand-- ATP. at a real parts house uses 3/8" tube. ONLY use high pressure hose. SAE J1019 217 psi working. NOT fuel hose for a carb engine.
Not to sound totally stupid? What do you mean by drive lug. I speak pretty fluent engine, but not so much transmission and torque converter. A diagram or pic would help tremendously.
 

Last edited by eddiekimberly; 02-12-2015 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 02-12-2015, 10:37 PM
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most chrysler converters have 4 threaded drive lugs that bolt to the flex plate. it is a specl bolt, with short threads. some converter lugs may be off set. meaning the flex plate will match only one way. and some may have a 1/8 hole in the plate that matches a V stamped on the converter. all this info is from years back. newer trans might be different. but i only have a 1967 charger / coronet manual with me. but i have about 20 in my storage.
 
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Old 02-13-2015, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by eddiekimberly
Beeker, the torque converter I got is from the donor vehicle (the donor is a 2500, 5.9. Mine is a 1500, 5.2. Both 2001 models). I was told to use the converter from the donor since they are balanced differently from the 1500s and I would be fine.
The TCs in our trucks are known for early failure. They are good for around 90k miles, some have gone much longer. Do you know how many miles on the newer trans?

Be sure to check that the TC from the 5.9 will bolt to the flexplate on the 5.2. Hopefully someone can chime in that knows if they will bolt together..
 

Last edited by beeker; 02-13-2015 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 02-13-2015, 01:10 AM
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5.2 is internally balanced, 5.9 is externally. Make sure the torque converter you're getting has a zero balance.
 


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