Nice looking motor! Is that a stock rebuild that you did?

 

John deer blitz black hvlp paint......Haha and yeah I live around college station TX so moisture isn't a problem for me. And this will only be a weekend driven truck/play toy.

 

The motor build is fairly mild, it has port matched stock heads, heavily ported kegger Intake with modified runners, (Hi-Potek) 210XP cam 210/220 .512 .512 lift on a 110lsa grind, it has the MP double roller timing chain and cloyes chain tensioner, meling 6.850" hardened pushrods, pacesetter longtubes, full 3" dual exhaust with no cats, flow monster x-pipe and two single chamber flowmasters dumped in front of the rear axle....tuning by Sean at Hemifever

 

The motor had 362k original miles on it when pulled, still ran great. It was damn near in perfect condition, all it needed was a good hone job on the cylinders. It was only .002 out of factory spec which only called for a good brush hone. So I had them boil the block, new freeze plugs, new cam bearings, hone the cylinders and rebuild the heads. Then I put it all back together with clevite 77 std. bearings and std. piston rings gapped inbetween .022/.024, and a MP high volume oil pump......my main bearings came in at .0015-.002 oil clearance and my rod bearings averaged .0015-.002 as we'll....PERFECT!

 

Must have been a very well cared for motor...... That's impressive for the mileage. What did you do for valve springs?

 

For springs I went with the Hughes complete package that adds a little more installed height. Comes with their custom steel retainers/locks and their HUG1110 springs. People swear up and down that they have used the 210x cam with stock pushrods but I'm calling bull****, OR their motors just didn't last very long after they posted that info. When I blue printed the heads I found that with a stock pushrod (6.900) it still had slight valve retainer to valve seal interference issues. I ended up with (6.820" + .030") for lifter preload, so I ended up with 6.850" pushrods, and on a solid lifter (for mock up) I have about .010 gap with the seal/retainer clearance. Meaning when I put the Hyd lifters back in I'll have around .020-.030 gap due to the very slight compression a Hyd lifter has.

 

Good deal. Sounds like you actually have a clue on building engines.

Are you itchin' to hear it run?

 

that looks awesome, you are making me want tear down my 97 and rebuild...

 

Beautiful work you are doing. Like how it looks lowered. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

 

dam son

looks great