trouble after plenum gasket replacement

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Mar 13, 2015 | 10:08 PM
  #1  
Truck now runs hot when trying to bleed cooling system. Gets up to temperature, starts spilling over, so iput the cap on, then it starts running hot, tried it again and when it got up to temperature it started erupting out, i have no clue what's wrong since the thermostat is in the correct way. Any help appreciated
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Mar 14, 2015 | 08:22 AM
  #2  
That's just an air pocket in the cooling system. Bleeding it out can indeed be exciting. Drilling a couple small holes in the thermostat alleviates most of the issue. (as per my PM to you.)
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Mar 14, 2015 | 10:44 AM
  #3  
X2! Drill a small hole in it when you put one in, It will solve this.
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Mar 14, 2015 | 01:28 PM
  #4  
Take out the coolant temp sensor (1/2" socket I think) and fill the rad until coolant comes out of the sensor hole, then stick the sensor in and it should be good to go. If coolant won't come out of the hole by filling the rad, fill the block through the hole.
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Mar 14, 2015 | 04:53 PM
  #5  
Quote: Take out the coolant temp sensor (1/2" socket I think) and fill the rad until coolant comes out of the sensor hole, then stick the sensor in and it should be good to go. If coolant won't come out of the hole by filling the rad, fill the block through the hole.
That's actually a good idea. Saves having to pull the 'stat again.
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Mar 14, 2015 | 07:21 PM
  #6  
I know this could be a really dumb question, Did you put a rag in the top radiator hose and forget to pull it back out?
You could have a clogged radiator or something is blocking the heater core from getting flow. Is one of the heater hoses twisted?
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Mar 15, 2015 | 12:00 PM
  #7  
I ended up getting it, apparently i just can't bleed the system lol. Only thing is, ran it until there were no more bubbles, but now my temp gauge is wonky, it'll jump from 3/4 to About a quarter then sit at normal for a little. Don't know if the sensor went bad, i mean when iplugged it back in i could pull the top part out of the nut part, but don't know if it's trapped air. Heat works fine
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Mar 15, 2015 | 12:07 PM
  #8  
Replace the sensor. If it comes apart.... it's broke.
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Mar 16, 2015 | 11:03 AM
  #9  
Yup, when I took out the old sensor, it came apart. They are very fragile.

When I am "burping" the system I drive my truck up my "oil change ramps" so the radiator top is higher than the heater core. You will notice that the heater core intake lines (left side of firewall) are higher than the radiator spout. That means air will get trapped in there unless you raise the front of the vehicle.

You can try the ramps, open the rad cap and start the truck. As it gets warm, the air will burp out.

I am running a 180* t-stat, and my truck runs very cool. These trucks actually run very cool when the air is out, unless the TRANNY is getting hot. The tranny fluid will raise the fluid in the radiator. Dodge knew this for towing purposes and installed the external tranny cooler to take some heat out of the tube in the radiator.
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Mar 16, 2015 | 11:09 AM
  #10  
I replaced the sensor, still the same thing. On the highway it reads normal temperature, but in the city it jumps between what I'm assuming 180 and 220, and its only 35 degrees out. If i get on iit, it cools down. The water pump was replaced a couple months ago, and i did not replace the thermostat, which i am thinking is the culprit, but I'm not sure. It never fluctuated like this before. I also suspect the water pump, although it was replaced recently
if it cools down when i punch it, like i said, normal temps on the highway.
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