Help!!! 1997 ram 2500 360 lack of power
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 907
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From: Corrales, New Mecico
Is it just me or is this thread all over the place?
Figure out what's wrong first, then move on to what you want.
Nothing will beat the torque of a 408, with that said....I'd check out Moparts, and the Dakota R/T forum lots of info on building up a Magnum 360 to do whatever you want.
A Z code is a Z code.
Figure out what's wrong first, then move on to what you want.
Nothing will beat the torque of a 408, with that said....I'd check out Moparts, and the Dakota R/T forum lots of info on building up a Magnum 360 to do whatever you want.
A Z code is a Z code.
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Professional
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 197
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From: PA
Yeah its all over the place for sure from body to engine to interior. Im buying parts as I gather info. As far as engine, at this point idc what's wrong with it, I know with borderline compression (100-135 ) and 207000 miles on it, and redoing the interior and exterior over, the engine is getting rebuilt. So with that being decided, I want to start getting some experiences people have encountered with small block mopars as i've never really built one. Yes, it's not gonna be a 1/4 mile vehicle and what im looking for is good low end response, something that if I have a friend with a say stock 360 in his truck, he says boy thats a snappy 360. Not looking to press him into the seat just a good running sounding small block. I will go to the forums you suggested and research them also.
Is it just me or is this thread all over the place?
Figure out what's wrong first, then move on to what you want.
Nothing will beat the torque of a 408, with that said....I'd check out Moparts, and the Dakota R/T forum lots of info on building up a Magnum 360 to do whatever you want.
A Z code is a Z code.
Figure out what's wrong first, then move on to what you want.
Nothing will beat the torque of a 408, with that said....I'd check out Moparts, and the Dakota R/T forum lots of info on building up a Magnum 360 to do whatever you want.
A Z code is a Z code.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,483
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
Correct cam, matched intake, and small valve heads. (stock size) Headers, and a tuner. 
Look for like an RV cam. Something that has its power band start pretty low.... (Idle to about 1000RPM) Stock kegger is designed for low-end grunt..... ( I did the kegger mod to mine, moves the power band up a couple hundred RPM, and puts the peak right about where you cruise at doing 65 or so.)
Tuner gets rid of torque management, alters shift points a bit, and has more aggressive fuel/timing curves. (more power across the board) Torque management wasn't as much of an issue on the pre-98 trucks though..... still and all, it's good for a couple ponies, and 10-15 lbs ft. (on a stock motor, with mods, you should get more.)
Look for like an RV cam. Something that has its power band start pretty low.... (Idle to about 1000RPM) Stock kegger is designed for low-end grunt..... ( I did the kegger mod to mine, moves the power band up a couple hundred RPM, and puts the peak right about where you cruise at doing 65 or so.)
Tuner gets rid of torque management, alters shift points a bit, and has more aggressive fuel/timing curves. (more power across the board) Torque management wasn't as much of an issue on the pre-98 trucks though..... still and all, it's good for a couple ponies, and 10-15 lbs ft. (on a stock motor, with mods, you should get more.)
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Professional
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: PA
Think that's what im looking for HeyYou. If I was in an old mopar car the red light to red light snappy. With the lift kit and 35's not looking for anything over 65 mph really.
Just something that'll make turning the 35's or bigger all little quicker and easier. So keeping small valves and not a big lopey cam will help out with that you said, so what other areas like heads that are ported slightly, does the small valves make this not so needed. Been looking also at the kegger options also.Im sure the cylinders will need cleaned up or bored .030. Can or should I go with a little higher compression piston or different style of piston or is that gonna hurt me? I wanna say thanks to all the info given to me so far.. Heck at this point the way the truck is running a stock 360 will seem like a power house but just want a little extra and tranny is also getting rebuilt at same time.
Just something that'll make turning the 35's or bigger all little quicker and easier. So keeping small valves and not a big lopey cam will help out with that you said, so what other areas like heads that are ported slightly, does the small valves make this not so needed. Been looking also at the kegger options also.Im sure the cylinders will need cleaned up or bored .030. Can or should I go with a little higher compression piston or different style of piston or is that gonna hurt me? I wanna say thanks to all the info given to me so far.. Heck at this point the way the truck is running a stock 360 will seem like a power house but just want a little extra and tranny is also getting rebuilt at same time.
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,483
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
The smaller valves promote flow velocity at lower RPMs, which is what you want for cylinder filling. Bumping compression ratio a bit sure won't hurt, but, keep in mind, stock is already right about 9:1.....
To help it run on regular pump gas, even with the higher compression, try and keep quench area to a minimum. Gonna need a custom tune though with the major changes. (cam, etc.)
For heads, I would just pick up a pair of the Odessa/Clearwater NEW casting heads. They have thicker decks, and are much less prone to cracking. I wouldn't even bother with the heads on there now, chances are good they are cracked in any event.
One piece valves!
Something along these lines would be good. (or, you could bump up a bit if you like..)
To help it run on regular pump gas, even with the higher compression, try and keep quench area to a minimum. Gonna need a custom tune though with the major changes. (cam, etc.)
For heads, I would just pick up a pair of the Odessa/Clearwater NEW casting heads. They have thicker decks, and are much less prone to cracking. I wouldn't even bother with the heads on there now, chances are good they are cracked in any event.
One piece valves!
Something along these lines would be good. (or, you could bump up a bit if you like..)
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Professional
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: PA
HeyYou.. Back on Pg. 5 is a pic of the truck we are working on. Going tomorrow for fenders,doors,and tailgate for the bed we already purchased. WHat's my options for different rims for this truck. Other than buying new aftermarket. Does dodge make a nice rim stock in an 8 lug, can I change to 17" or 20" or wouldn't that be wise. THinking of soon buying rubber for this and was wondering if my options of tires would be better and/or cheaper at 17" or 20" rather than 16. I'm gonna stay with the 315/75-R16 or go with a little wider tire if possible.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
Basically any 8 lug rim from the same era truck will fit. (chevy or ford as well....) I don't think dodge ever changed the bolt pattern either, so, rims from newer trucks will more'n likely bolt right on. Gotta watch backspacing though.
You can go as big as you like, but, I don't particularly care for rims over 18" on a truck that will see off-road duty. Just isn't enough tire sidewall left on larger rims to protect the rims......
Do you know what gear ratio you have in your diffs? Those are basically 35" tires, right? You are going to want at least 4.10 gears for those.
You can go as big as you like, but, I don't particularly care for rims over 18" on a truck that will see off-road duty. Just isn't enough tire sidewall left on larger rims to protect the rims......
Do you know what gear ratio you have in your diffs? Those are basically 35" tires, right? You are going to want at least 4.10 gears for those.