k&n intake and throttle body spacer
It honestly does nothing? Then why did the previous owner even put it on. So tb spacers are only to help atomizer fuel better when fuel is introduced before the spacer? So on direct port like my truck it's useless right? And can I go to the junkyard and pull 4 bolts from a stock tb. Will any motor work 5.2 or 5.9? And mine is a holly throttle body. Is that stock do they all come with holly throttle bodys? Mine has 2 butterflies. Can I pull from any gen 2 ?
Last edited by jrox44; Sep 16, 2015 at 09:00 PM.
Exactly. Previous owner did not do his homework. Ditch the spacer. And don't believe the CAI rumors. Do some research and save yourself some money.
Only at speed. Stock system draws from the fender......
I've measured the O2 temp at the TB at idle. Used to make these (search 3rd Gen section, been a few I made for members and Moderators trucks). K&N with chrome tube was actually hotter than stock, K&N black plastic tube about the same as stock. White PVC, unpainted or painted a light color that I made was best, but at idle still only 4-6* cooler than stock.
There are times you get benefits from the much greater surface area of the cone filter. I've even seen some aftermarket cams spec that one is required. But your intake/exhaust system is only going to flow as fast as the most restrictive component, so without a bunch of other mods, the CAI doesn't really do much.
Now products like a Vararam is another story. That product gets its air from outside the truck. I've never measured one, but when Marty was running KRC Performance, he's measured 20*+ difference AT IDLE ( not moving) over stock temps. Problem with those though is you risk taking water in, even on pavement with a good bit of standing water...
There are times you get benefits from the much greater surface area of the cone filter. I've even seen some aftermarket cams spec that one is required. But your intake/exhaust system is only going to flow as fast as the most restrictive component, so without a bunch of other mods, the CAI doesn't really do much.
Now products like a Vararam is another story. That product gets its air from outside the truck. I've never measured one, but when Marty was running KRC Performance, he's measured 20*+ difference AT IDLE ( not moving) over stock temps. Problem with those though is you risk taking water in, even on pavement with a good bit of standing water...
Well my exhaust has a hollow cat. With some aftermarket muffler the PO put on but I'm trying to make sure it has good air now that it can get alot of it out. I also switched to a 180 stat. With the hollow cat and the stat I actually noticed a big difference. But is the k&n CAI going to be any better then stock? From what everyone is saying it's not really going to help. Should I just send it back and get my money back ? I know from previous vehicles that 1 bolt on product isn't going to help but sometimes the right combo all adds up.
I removed the baffle next to the radiator, to get air from in front of the radiator.
Move the IAT to the air hat... I recorded a 50°F lower IAT by moving the sensor from the keg to the air hat.
Inlet air has time to gain heat in the stock keg, so actual intake location will make little to no difference on the air temp the cylinders see... with an FIAirgap (or similar), the runners are surrounded by engine bay temp, not internal engine temp like the keg.
Move the IAT to the air hat... I recorded a 50°F lower IAT by moving the sensor from the keg to the air hat.
Inlet air has time to gain heat in the stock keg, so actual intake location will make little to no difference on the air temp the cylinders see... with an FIAirgap (or similar), the runners are surrounded by engine bay temp, not internal engine temp like the keg.












