I replaced the driver rear brake drum pads and the cylinder and also did the front brake pads also few days later.
Now i have the abs light on all the time,but if a push the brake down the light goes away. From what i remember as first i did the rear driver side pads first and then 1 or 2 days later did the front and did not have the abs light on.

Now what i notice,if i unplug this:

the abs light goes away.

Here is a video of the light , and when pressing:

Any advice on this? Had the truck for 15 years and never had this happen.
Maybe that sensor maybe bad? or the rear abs sensor is gone?.

Thank you.

1995 Ram 1500 5.2L 2 Wheel Drive .

 

Still have air in the system. Try bleeding the brakes again.

 

Hello and thank you for replying!

So today, this morning i started the truck and drove 1/2 mile the light was on and then when pedal was pressed it went off,and again.
But i have stopped to put some gas and after that the light turned off and never come on...Hmmm

Now i still fill that i don't have really good brakes when i press the pedal down, so i will try to bleed the air out again.

So what will be the proper way to do it? Starting from the wheel that most distance from the master cylinder? or do it on the wheels that pads where replaced?

And regarding the bleeding , this is how i do it:

1. The second person in cab presses the brake pedal 4-5 times and keep it pressed.
2. The person at the wheel , loosen the cylinder screw , air comes out , then tight back the screw. (will do it 2,3 times , per wheel)

Is this how it suppose to be done?

As i see some people , will open the cylinder screw , they press the brake pedal and then will tight back the cylinder screw, then release the brake pedal.

Now the cover in top where you fill with fluid , does it need to be closed or out?


Thanks for your advice.

 

I like doing it the way you outlined, it tends to shock the air out of the system.

If your brake fluid is old, do all four wheels. Right Rear, left rear, right front, left front.

Also, you want to make sure the rears are adjusted up properly. That's what has the most effect on pedal height.

Leave the cover on, but, not latched. Fluid tends to want to jump out when you step on the pedal.

 

So if i change only the driver side,the brake pads... do i still need to air bleed from passenger side too?

Now in the line i outlined, if you let the cover on but not latched, and you press the brake pedal 1,2,3,4 would that get air into the system? So you press down, but when going up will that suck some air back into the master cylinder?

Also i am curios if this can be done in one person? or maybe not... need to find someone to press my pedal...Autozone said that they have a kit for doing one person,not sure if i believe that...

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-an...kit/46839_0_0/

Hmm, it may work in one man :


but he shut the cover closed...

Thanks,

 

Master cover isn't really important, making sure there is enough fluid in there is.

There are one-person bleeders, basically you just replace the valves. Not sure how well they work. So far as I am concerned, two people is the best way.

 

I manage to bleed the air out with the Harbor Freight set
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html
Is not really a "wow" tool, but i did it my self! All nice and good brake pedal now.

I also started to build one of this here:
DIY Make Your Own 1 Man Pressure Brake Bleeder
But after i purchased all , i figure out that dodges don't have a round cap
at the brake fluid basin.Hmm! Is there any interchangeable covers?

Thanks,

 

On some I have used, it is a metal pipe, with a rubber grommet on the end, that seals into the depression on the reservoir, to seal. It's held in place with what is basically a bungi cord......

 

I see... I will go to pick-in-pull and get a used cover and just use metal pipe thread female and male with O rings and that should hold the Psi to do the test.

Anyway, Thank you very much for all your info friend!...