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Piecing my lift together

Old Dec 5, 2015 | 01:25 AM
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Default Piecing my lift together

So I have a 5 inch long arm bds kit. I was wondering if I put a 2 inch spacer for a 7 inch lift, if a couple of things.
1. Will my shocks be to decompressed?
2.Once I put in the indexing ring to eliminate front drive line vibration do I need a new crossmember to stop it making contact or can I alter mine by cutting and welding?
3. Will my long arm control arms be to short? If so, can I adjust castor to move axle to elminate run to fight 38x15.5 which is my ultimate goal.

P.S.
I already have a 3 inch body lift as well.
 

Last edited by bogo; Dec 5, 2015 at 01:26 AM. Reason: missing some info
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 09:35 AM
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You should already have enough lift to accommodate the 38's.

Adding spacers to an existing lift is a bad idea. The lift companies specifically tell you NOT to do that. As for your shocks, look at the specs, and see if they have enough travel to do what you want. (I don't recommend spacers with a lift either though.....)
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 12:11 PM
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What he said^^^ 10" of lift should clear 40s.

1. Shocks will need to be longer
2. Do not recommend cutting into a cross member
3. Yes, castor can be adjusting using cam bolts
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bogo
So I have a 5 inch long arm bds kit. I was wondering if I put a 2 inch spacer for a 7 inch lift, if a couple of things.
1. Will my shocks be to decompressed?
2.Once I put in the indexing ring to eliminate front drive line vibration do I need a new crossmember to stop it making contact or can I alter mine by cutting and welding?
3. Will my long arm control arms be to short? If so, can I adjust castor to move axle to elminate run to fight 38x15.5 which is my ultimate goal.

P.S.
I already have a 3 inch body lift as well.
Hey bogo, welcome to DF. Our gen Rams can clear 38s in the wheel well (no trimming) with minimum 5" suspension lift and 3" body lift. 40s require trimming to rear wheel well.

BDS kits are really good for what they put together. All kits are designed for their intended lengths as they are not adjustable. Meaning the kit sets the axle in the proper location and all the geometry is appropriate. Therefore, adding a spacer will change that.

However, it's similar to taking a stock setup, adding spacer, and deciding if the risk in pulling the axle back towards the cab warrants trimming and other handling characteristics.

For the indexing ring part, have you already gotten a longer driveshaft?

If you do really need a clocking ring to clock the tcase down, then xmember might be a clearance item. That is dependent on the amount of clocking. You can mod the xmember with proper reinforcement. I've got a different setup, but can show you if interested.

The long arms being too short is relative to the rest of the other changes you're considering. Especially the upper arms. For example, you add the 2" spacer then lengthening both upper and lower arms accordingly.

Adding lift means shocks at ride height get longer.....
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
Hey bogo, welcome to DF. Our gen Rams can clear 38s in the wheel well (no trimming) with minimum 5" suspension lift and 3" body lift. 40s require trimming to rear wheel well.

BDS kits are really good for what they put together. All kits are designed for their intended lengths as they are not adjustable. Meaning the kit sets the axle in the proper location and all the geometry is appropriate. Therefore, adding a spacer will change that.

However, it's similar to taking a stock setup, adding spacer, and deciding if the risk in pulling the axle back towards the cab warrants trimming and other handling characteristics.

For the indexing ring part, have you already gotten a longer driveshaft?

If you do really need a clocking ring to clock the tcase down, then xmember might be a clearance item. That is dependent on the amount of clocking. You can mod the xmember with proper reinforcement. I've got a different setup, but can show you if interested.

The long arms being too short is relative to the rest of the other changes you're considering. Especially the upper arms. For example, you add the 2" spacer then lengthening both upper and lower arms accordingly.

Adding lift means shocks at ride height get longer.....
So from what I hear I should be able to fit 38x15.5r20 bit proper back spacing? I have trimmed some fenDer liner to previously fit 35s on a 2 inch lift and the shop is saying if I go 6 inches higher I could be fine with 38s but 38x15.5 might be to wide they suggest.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bogo
So from what I hear I should be able to fit 38x15.5r20 bit proper back spacing? I have trimmed some fenDer liner to previously fit 35s on a 2 inch lift and the shop is saying if I go 6 inches higher I could be fine with 38s but 38x15.5 might be to wide they suggest.
Of course that is too wide for stock wheel setup; even worse with improper lift setup.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 05:30 PM
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[QUOTE=Wh1t3NuKle;3274348]Of course that is too wide for stock wheel setup; even worse with improper lift setup.[/QUOTE

What do yoy mean? I'll have 20x12 wide wheels and 38x15.5r20 tires I was wondering if 8 would suffice but from what I hear I'll be fine?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 06:04 PM
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8 inch wheels with 15 inch wide tires??? Not a good plan. Will you be rolling beads around every corner.

Even the 12's are going to be close..... but, should work.

What's the back spacing on those wheels?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
8 inch wheels with 15 inch wide tires??? Not a good plan. Will you be rolling beads around every corner.

Even the 12's are going to be close..... but, should work.

What's the back spacing on those wheels?
8 inch lift not wheel. And a -44 offset
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 08:26 PM
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Backspacing. Offset is calculated. Backspacing is what is important.
 
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