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My truck jolts when I accelerate from a stop...

Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:17 PM
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Default My truck jolts when I accelerate from a stop...

Everytime I accelerate from a stop my truck "jolts" almost like it is taking up slack in the driveline


If I accelerate kind of aggressively from a stop it happens right away but if I gradually accelerate from a stop it takes a couple seconds before it does it.

But I feel it in my seat and it is a little harsh.

It did this with my old rear end and then I swapped one in from an off road edition Ram with 4.10s and I think it stopped for a couple of days or at least got better but now it's the same as it was before

So I'm not really even sure where to begin
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:37 PM
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Uh-oh. How's the fluid level? Check at normal operating temperature, idling in Neutral (NOT Park!), after driving or at least shifting through the quadrants a couple of times.

If you've got the factory installed anti-drainback check valve in the transmission cooler line where it enters the radiator, get rid of it NOW. Not two miles from now. Seriously consider plumbing in a remote filter at that point to get the valve's function but not its problems back. There are actual mechanical downsides to allowing the converter to empty, but it seems lots of guys are willing to accept them.

How far back was the last transmission service?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
Uh-oh. How's the fluid level? Check at normal operating temperature, idling in Neutral (NOT Park!), after driving or at least shifting through the quadrants a couple of times.

If you've got the factory installed anti-drainback check valve in the transmission cooler line where it enters the radiator, get rid of it NOW. Not two miles from now. Seriously consider plumbing in a remote filter at that point to get the valve's function but not its problems back. There are actual mechanical downsides to allowing the converter to empty, but it seems lots of guys are willing to accept them.

How far back was the last transmission service?
Will look into getting rid of that check valve.

The fluid looks like it could be a tad low but that is checking it in my driveway that has a bit of an incline



According to maintenance records from the previous owner the fluid and filter was changed about 45,000 miles back
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Nate_rs
According to maintenance records from the previous owner the fluid and filter was changed about 45,000 miles back
It's due, if it's not already busted. Is there any indication if the bands were adjusted during that maintenance? If they weren't, that could be a big chunk of the problem right there and it's a good time to start hoping that they're not glazed.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
It's due, if it's not already busted. Is there any indication if the bands were adjusted during that maintenance? If they weren't, that could be a big chunk of the problem right there and it's a good time to start hoping that they're not glazed.
No clue, but I really doubt they were. Guess I'll figure out when I can change it all and get it done

Anything else I should do while I'm in there? The trans shifts good and all gears work good so hopefully that'll help and I'm not boned here
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 03:10 PM
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Checked it about four times on level ground all warmed up and this is what it read. About between a quarter and halfway through the OK portion on the dipstick
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 03:50 PM
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Keep in mind, the difference between "add" and "Full" is a PINT, not a quart.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 05:52 PM
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http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/AT_band_adj.htm



Is this the correct procedure?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 09:02 PM
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Also what kind of remote filter kit would be most suitable? Looking around I see the canisters and some inline filters.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 09:04 PM
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That is the correct procedure.

Canister type filter. Easy to change, without making a mess. Just mount it somewhere convenient under the hood.
 
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