Truck: 96 3500 Cummins 4WD Automatic

My understanding is that these came with a 47RE automatic (47RH being only 1995). The truck was built by a previous owner and the transfer case came from a 97, transmission may have too (would still be a 47RE though, I believe).

The truck shifts Park/Reverse/Neutral/Drive/2nd/1st just fine, but in Drive or 2 it never shifts out of 1st. I can still plow the driveway with it, but even a simple trip into town is difficult (top speed of 50 and that at redline). The local transmission shop (the one that everyone recommends, even my mechanic), did the ole ever-creeping-up-price quote for me. You know "should be only 250 for a basic band adjust, filter and flush, but it might need 800 for adjusting the reverse clutch and a lot of problems with Dodge transmissions require more work which puts you towards a rebuild which is in the range of 2000". So I have no intention of bringing it to them unless I have to. My only trusted transmission guy is 120 miles away, and I'm not making that trip in 1st gear or at redline (good way to damage more stuff or blow the engine).

So, should I be trying to replace the output speed sensor? That's the first part that comes up when I look into this and doesn't seem to involve opening the transmission up.

 

Try this:

Unplug the 8 pin connector on the drivers side of the trans, about halfway back. Go for a ride. Keep in mind, your trans will have ZERO automatic function. (so, don't go too far. ) You will need to manually shift into the gear you want. Start in first, etc. If the trans shifts into the gear you tell it to, when you tell it to, it's just an electronic problem, and can probably be solved for under 150 bucks. (you doing the labor.) The dodge transmissions are rather notorious for the electronic governor to screw up, and you get strange behavior. (like what you are getting....) Simply swapping out the governor pressure sensor and solenoid fixes an awful lot of problems. But, test first, replace second.

 

So if I switch from 1st to 2nd to Drive on the tree, the transmission will shift when I instruct it to? I always thought it still shifted between 1st and 2nd based on transmission speed when in 2nd on the tree?

Thanks for the info, definitely WAY better to test, then replace!

How does the 8 pin remove? is there a bolt? From underneath on the ice I don't have a clear angle to see if I should just pull on it or twist or find a tab to press.

 

I think there is just a tab, the goes over a 'nub' that hold it in place, then it just pulls straight up. Maybe use a mirror so you can actually kinda, sorta, see it.

But yes, the trans should do exactly what you tell it to, when you tell it to.

 

I can't for the life of me get that plug off. I think the issue is that I can't get the tabs on either side to release or enough upwards pressure to pull the plug off. It's cool out (35deg), so I'm probably going to wait till a warmer day to try again.

If anyone has any tips or tricks for removing the transmission solenoid plug, I'd love to hear them. I'd really rather not drop the forward driveshaft just to remove a plug.

I'm thinking maybe:
Blast it with electronics cleaner (it's pretty gritty/greasy)
Put some low heat to it (heat gun, not torch)
Bigger needlenose pliers (mine are too small to expand over both tabs)

 

Push down on the connector first, then try and release, and pull up.

If this isn't your primary driver, waiting for a warmer day sure wouldn't hurt.

 

If it's THAT cold where you are, some low heat couldn't hurt. Even if it's just so you don't break those silly tabs. Whenever I pull my dash or other plastic, I try to warm them up a bit.

 

It seems to be way easier to get to the output speed sensor than the 8 pin electronic control plug. It's cheap enough and easy enough to just get a speed sensor. 3 questions:

1) Is this the right speed sensor?

2) Is there any potential for damage to the transmission if I replace the speed sensor and it is not the cause of the issue?

3) Is the output speed sensor submerged inside the case, i.e. will fluid come pouring out when I remove it?

 

1. Looks right.

2. Maybe. We don't know what the actual problem is, so, no telling what is going on inside.

3. I don't think so, but, be ready, just in case.

You should try some more at that 8 pin connector. No point throwing money at something that may, or may not, fix it.

 

the speed sensor is the ONLY actual physical sensor that can Be removed from outside the case.

No, not at least anymore than what is already going to happen from driving 50@ redline and whatever the existing malfunction is causing.

I wouldn't consider it "submerged" though a little fluid most likely dribble out out. It would be less than what runs out slipping the rear drive shaft out of place, and nothing that is going to require a refill unless it was already running a bit low.

As for the 8pin connector, what got mine off (with snow on the ground) was not heat, or pliers, and even when helping a buddy of mine with his 99 Dakota sport 4wd AT, I did it the same way(without front shaft removal)
Due to grime IT WILL BE A PITA--that is a given. What worked for Me was blasting some grime off with some carb cleaner to start with. If there is grime under the TAB you are not going to press IT far enough to get the thing off. If you can get both hands at least to it using a medium flat screwdriver gently helps. Grab it with one hand, press the tab, and while pulling it rock it gently, if you can create a small gap you are half way there and can use the screwdriver to assist in pushing it off as you pull.
Probably not the best or most recommended way, but being gently yet firm about it and it will work with no damage to the plug.
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Words from AT Hell with a 46RE, https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-stumped.html
Your Gov sensor is done.
Your 47RE, share a majority of it's existing components with the 46RE, with only minor revisions to the shift servo's, and overall case design (mostly because it is a 4wd case)

At some point mine did the same thing you described, (after putting time and money into rebuilding it personally) I had D2, Sorta had D1, and D was neutered and didn't shift (30mph@4k),
R worked fine. I am glad I took the advise given here on DF.com, and changed the GOV sensor and it's transducer out with NEW OEM replacements. everything went back to normal.

The Gov/shift sensor, and it's transducer are pinned to the bottom of the VB, and can be changed with NO actual AT specific knowledge.
1) Drain it,
2)remove the pan,
3) remove the 2 allen/torx screws holding the filter to get it out of your way.
4) then you can remove some more of the same allen/torx screws and a 10mm bolt to remove just the sensors retainer plate, or alternatively after an additional 10mm bolt the whole Aluminum block the sensors go in.
Either way you chose can be done without removal of the entire AT.