So to get into this mess For the Forums, and hopefully to find someone who has been here before (that place somewhere between a junkpile and a book of matches) and knows cheap way and more importantly correct way out of this nightmare.
This has been a two month long tango of Hell going one step forwards for two or three steps back.

Getting to the real dilemma Now.
The Nightmare began with erratic shifting @4K or Higher and sometimes needing an assist by being eased into Neutral and back into Drive.

After Attempt One rebuild, the 14 roller One way clutch sprag broke the "reverse support" in the main case......totally thrashed scrap aluminum.

I Replaced the Transmission altogether with one from a local salvage yard in a truck that was described as "movable under it's own power" when it arrived.
This don't really mean much to Me.....it is not like they take the drive-ins for a test drive down the highway to test if it hits all gears.

Naturally concerned on just what that meant for Condition internally, I Used the rebuild Kit stuffs needed to hopefully not have to deal with it for a while once it was up and on the road again.

Now I am back pretty much where I started after........

Replacing Upper & Lower Trans Cooler lines and their respective Brass fittings on the case
Front and Rear Bands
Reverse Servo Piston and Pin
Filters and gaskets throughout
CPS had to be replaced--wires got damaged
Output Shaft Speed sensor had to be replaced--AT fell on it at an angle and broke it off
TVC Adjusted (due to common correlation in non shift issues) for No change.

NOW FOR SOME Q: & A: THAT WITH ANY LUCK OTHER THAN THE CRAP I HAVE HAS SO FAR GETS ME WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE

Both Bands Adjusted?
(TBH) this is a confusing process because there is "what Dodge says" versus "Well mine were set to....and all is fine".
I have no regular serviceable use for a torque wrench of any kind and thusly do not own one, nor fancy the idea of getting one really.
WHAT IS THE "HAND SPEC" FOR USING A TORX KEY AND 3/4 WRENCH by turn count? How tight should I tighten it before Counting the Backout--Snug is too vague a term?
Odds the rear band it too tight or loose could cause non shift?
The Odds of the front band it too tight or loose could cause non shift?
What is the best setting for the TVC to be at the correct tension?

What are the Odds some of this issue is because the Billet replacement Servo Parts have too thick of a Piston?
It is Double the thickness of the OEM servo Piston Part.
It holds the pin So tightly there is Maybe 1/8 to 1/16 of travel possible left in the heavy spring on the plunger pin.

If someone has info on how the gears are determined/synched across the planet/Sun sets that would kinda be nice to know as well.
Specifically what planet and sun is shared with what.
I was told I that 1st, D1(low), and reverse share a set but the VB flow direction and sprag decides if it rolls freely one way or binds for reverse.

 

Did you install new governor pressure parts during your rebuild? If you didn't, start there. You are showing classic signs of a failing pressure sensor.

Rent a torque wrench from your local parts store. Needs to be accurate at 72 INCH pounds.

 

I had initially gotten a Gov sensor before opening the original transmission, but on finding the front band was nothing more than a bare metal strap and the I returned it and dropped the tranny out.
So I didn't think about it again as being the culprit really.
On disassembly for further clean out and inspection I found the rear band had been chewed a bit by the free floating debris.
So I decided against a simple band replacement and went with what I saw to be a decent total overhaul package. (not the greatest pick but could have gotten worse)

Then upon tearing down the VB to inspect, clean, and install the new gaskets filters and O'rings I found a spring busted in 3 pieces. No one seems able to answer how it is even possible or what is capable of putting that much load on it.
Unlike this member, I was lucky enough the piston was undamaged and replaced the spring.
As common as it is the reverse servo was broken, the heavy spring retainer on the band arm side had ripped free of the all aluminum servo assembly--I replaced that with a heavier duty and thicker Billet steel unit using the original spring and pin retainer circlip.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-A727-A...RWwfhT&vxp=mtr

So after putting everything in that it needed, and putting it back into the truck, and putting the new oil filter on the block and ect, matters simply went from just bad to worse.
I ended up needing to drop the tranny a second time as parts due to the 14 roller sprag exploding and taking a chunk of the reverse/intermediate shaft support out as well as leaving the steel outer sprag liner free spinning in the aluminum main case. I think it was a poorly seated or circlip failure that allowed the reverse Annulus and planet to wander forwards a bit for the sprag to even blow out the way it did.

I reused everything I could or needed from the original rebuild and disturbed as little as possible in the replacement tranny INCLUDING WHAT I THOUGHT to be good Gov sensor and transducer.

I am not happy with the concept of having to drain ATF with less than 1/4 a mile of road testing driven on it.
The thought of having to drop the whole AT out for the sake of doing damage puts me in the mindset of simply watching it burn instead.

In closing I have already sourced NEW Gov sensor and transducer as a pair over ebay for nearly half what it would cost locally as well as an Oss sensor in the event it came to that as I already suspected it from the amount of research I have done.
What sucks is this is the family DD, and We have had to begrudgingly borrow a rusty barely legal death trap YJ from a friend to get around.

I wont dog his jeep too much but it scares the SH*T out of Me knowing it is only legal be cause he knows the inspector he goes to personally.

I mean wouldn't anyone else be freaked out to know that, THE insane amount frame rot, No bushings left anywhere, intermittent grounding issues due to body rot, the carb that dumps the same amount of fuel straight into the exhaust as what it burns to run, the floor rot that makes the seat belts nothing more than a visual cop deterrent, and total lack of parking brake or properly functioning brakes.....don't exist on paper and it passed inspection without warnings?

 

I would be cautious about buying parts on ebay unless you know they are made by a known manufacture. Way to much china made junk on there. You may want to take some pressure readings, it can give you a better idea what is going on.

http://www.atraonline.com/manuals/se...0/2000_154.pdf

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

 

Yep. Pressure readings and shying from buying cheap no-name parts.

 

You are right about there being way too many "Cheap Imitations" for just about any and every replacement part for just about anything and everything ever made.

No offence, but after looking at your links, it just isn't that kind of truck and I am not personally willing to go that far past a planned budget for something so massively overkill for a basic DD vehicle.

Sure I fully understand overkill is less likely to fail under normal conditions.
Unfortunately that is a logical thought process that I am not financially able or willing to entertain. I just need the truck back roadworthy already.
It has left Me in a catch #22, No Truck, No Money--No Money, No Truck.

 

You should only lose 4-6 quarts of ATF. If it bothers you that much, with everything being new and clean, catch the fluid and re-use it.

The jeep is still better than walking!

 

This is a link to recommended rebuild by Monte C he was transmission guru on this sight.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...fo-only-6.html
List of parts at post 57

Dave

 

Oh you are right about the jeep (I-6 engine)even though it came to my attention that it runs mostly on 5 cylinders and intermittently on 4.

As for the ATF, the plan was to grab a cheap New plastic 2-3 Gallon Mop pail to throw under the pan before letting 'er loose.

 

It may be pleasing to You to Know, My Governor sensor and transducer FINALLY arrived.....and without knowing it I ordered Mopar Genuine Replacement parts!