1997 Ram 1500 sport has an issue with the headlights. After about 30 minutes of driving, even in Canadian winter (-20°), the headlights will begin to flicker on and off. The headlight switch is warm, but I've taken it out and cleaned it numerous times but nothing cures the issue. I also took apart the steering column and found the tight purple wire and gave it a few tugs to loosen things up further down the column. That "seemed" to help, but it didn't cure it for good. Do I need to use relays and eliminate the power thru the switch? The "how-to" article by Jason W is dated 2008, so has anyone come up with a better/easier way since then? Any ideas?

 

LMC Truck makes a plug and play relay harness for the headlights. That is by far the easiest route to take.

 

Do you suspect that is my problem? Would I be foolish to buy a new OEM headlamp switch from my dealer?

And the LMC Kit doesn't work for Canadian trucks with Daytime Running Lights according to the website?

 

I would start with a new headlight switch, amazon has them. Do this while we are figuring out how to wire up your headlights, Canadian-style with DRL's.

Here is a standard wiring diagram ( partway down)

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html

 

Can we assume that you still need the DRL's for Canada, that it is inspected somehow and someone (RCMP?) would notice? Do they have to function EXACTLY as OE? Because it could be as simple as wiring them (lowbeams) with a relay that turns on with the ignition. Your OE style keeps them off with your parking brake engaged (Only difference I see on your truck. Most DRL's, before LED's, ran the highbeams at about 90%). Then just wire up your highbeams with another relay through the lighting circuit. You have options, some will just be a bit harder than others. How good are you at truck wiring, comfortable?

 

I don't have to worry about inspections of any sort, so however we can make this work will be good. But I do want some type of headlamp to be on at all times. Otherwise, the local cops will pull me over for sure, and they already gave me a warning for my window tint. When you say my low beams will come on with the ignition, do you also mean that my tail lights would be on too? I'd prefer they not.

I'm "ok" with 12v electrical. I follow instructions well, if they are clear and concise! 😀

Should I go ahead and order the harness from LMC and the cheap switch from Amazon? Will someone guide me thru the install of having my low beams as DRL's?

 

The harness specifically states "Not for use with Daytime running lights"....... Wonder if that means it would cause an issue.

Looking at the wiring diagrams, to *me*, it doesn't 'look' like it would be an issue..... But, on the DRL version, the headlight switch provides power TO the lamps. I really don't see how it would be much different having the switch provide power to trip a couple relays.

Does the DRL module put out lower voltage to the headlights when they aren't actually turned on?

 

No, just the lowbeam headlights


I would order the stalk switch and headlight switch, a good place to start.

I can't figure out where the issue would be, unless it depends on how the new relays are wired in.


I cannot see much difference either.


I do not know if it puts out a lower voltage, but again, probably would not really matter. In the systems that run the highbeams at 90%, I believe it is because the highs are more "strategically" aimed but at 90%, not enough to **** off people (too much).


Its a shame that I cannot get the install instructions and see how they are wiring up that kit.




At this point, I would order the parts (switches and relay kit). The new switches will remedy the problem (probably) but cure the issue. The relay kit, I am sure, we can get wired in for you somehow, to cure this. Even if you install the relay kit and it disables the DRL's, we can always wire up the lowbeam relay to a switched hot, so it always comes on with the ignition.

 

A thought...

I wonder if the relay kit is not for modern (98 and up) DRL's due to the ground being switched vs the positive being switch in earlier models...

 

Another thought...

Re-checking the schematics, it looks as though all of the current for the headlights goes through the DRL module as well.