has new cap roter cam sensor crank sensor coil only has spark bout every 12 or so turns,,, no codes all wires r good ,,, coil gettin 12 volts so little lost HELP PLEZ

 

What brand parts? And why were they replaced?

 

Is the coil included in parts replaced, or are you saying the "coil only has spark 'bout every 12 or so turns"?

 

Tough to say without some punctuation...

 

not sure brand,, it needed a cam sensor ,,,then codes said crank sensor,, put cap roter ect cause needed it B 4 ALL THIS I HAD CODE NO BUS and sparked all the time called dodge dealer and said try unpluggin the sensors on tranny and the abs,, so i did,,turns NO BUS went away.. now it sparks every 12 or so turns

 

So, in the beginning it was a "No Bus" problem.

After all those parts were replaced, that problem was solved, and now it cranks, but won't start.
None of those things are connected to the Buss.

Did you plug the sensors back in that they told you to unplug?


The 12 volts on the coil is good, but the coil is fired by the PCM sending a pulse to ground the other side of the coil primary.
At what point did you lose spark? I ask, because a defective new cam or crank sensor can cause this. I'm told that these trucks don't play well with other than Mopar crank and cam sensors.

Do you remember the codes that caused you to replace them? If you still had spark until you replaced the old ones, they were probably ok.

 

yes that was the problem ,,,, no did not fix problem,,,,,, only when i unplugged the 2 sensors on tranny and the abs sensor,,, and the solved the no bus problem....durnin this time i still had some spark,,,,,i cant afford hight dollor **** for some parts,,,, i got hi $ cam sensor and crank and coil 125 4 all 3 yes coil included in replace parts,,,, well i guess u can say that bout coil i even put old 1 back on cause i knew it was still good and same thing

 

Hey Scott, I'm still trying to connect the transmission and ABS sensors to the "No Bus" problem. You may have found something that could help others. Which sensors were they? Were they ok when you plugged them back in?


Also, wondering if either the new cam or crank sensor is causing the spark problem. They both need to be working to get spark during cranking. Have you checked the wiring to them for bad connections or worn/missing insulation?


There are 3 wires to each one; 5 volt reference, ground, and the sensor output. There are also other sensors that are connected to the 5 volt reference and ground that could cause a problem. Can you check to see if those circuits are good from end to end?