My 1st Dodge - Whatis found loose on passenger side of engine
#1
My 1st Dodge - Whatis found loose on passenger side of engine
Hey Guys,
I could really use some help here. I basically know enough about engines and their systems, but this is my first Dodge (1999 Dodge Ram 2500 3/4 Ton 5.9L V8). When I got it, it was in sorry shape. I am to make it run decent and become a reliable daily driver.
However, I have some weird problems. I have done some searching in the 2 Gen Posts, but I am getting mixed messages as to what to start looking for.
My AC is working, but only blowing air to the defrost vents. AC amount of air/speed/sound changes when I am driving (it sounds like it is changing from recirc to outside air).
I have a metal cable with a long black plastic connector laying loose on the passenger side of my carburetor.
On the same side, near the carburetor there is a piece of black plastic tubing that looks like a three hose connector, two hoses are connected, one is missing/broken.
Cruse control is very 'wimpy'. Going up even slight inclines reduces speed. Never increases rpms to overcome hill. Conversely, when I give it a little gas, cruse control 'hangs on to' the rpms too long after the hill.
Back-up lights do not come on. Checked bulbs, they are fine (used leads on battery to check function). Bulb socket no voltage. I D/Led the 1994-2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Service Manual (BTW, does anyone have the parts breakdown for the 1994-2004 Dodge Ram 2500?), and basically its' telling me to replace the TRS (Transmission Range Sensor). But, I have been reading where it may be a vacuum problem.
Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
WizKidTX
I could really use some help here. I basically know enough about engines and their systems, but this is my first Dodge (1999 Dodge Ram 2500 3/4 Ton 5.9L V8). When I got it, it was in sorry shape. I am to make it run decent and become a reliable daily driver.
However, I have some weird problems. I have done some searching in the 2 Gen Posts, but I am getting mixed messages as to what to start looking for.
My AC is working, but only blowing air to the defrost vents. AC amount of air/speed/sound changes when I am driving (it sounds like it is changing from recirc to outside air).
I have a metal cable with a long black plastic connector laying loose on the passenger side of my carburetor.
On the same side, near the carburetor there is a piece of black plastic tubing that looks like a three hose connector, two hoses are connected, one is missing/broken.
Cruse control is very 'wimpy'. Going up even slight inclines reduces speed. Never increases rpms to overcome hill. Conversely, when I give it a little gas, cruse control 'hangs on to' the rpms too long after the hill.
Back-up lights do not come on. Checked bulbs, they are fine (used leads on battery to check function). Bulb socket no voltage. I D/Led the 1994-2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Service Manual (BTW, does anyone have the parts breakdown for the 1994-2004 Dodge Ram 2500?), and basically its' telling me to replace the TRS (Transmission Range Sensor). But, I have been reading where it may be a vacuum problem.
Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
WizKidTX
#2
#3
#4
Great advice, however I have already checked all the fuses. All good. I have 12VDC on both sides of each fuse.
Thanks anyway.
#5
I believe you may have hit the nail on the head. I am looking online for some OEM replacements for the ALL the vacuum lines. I found some at http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p...wd=&origin=pla
Overstock Pt#: 04746208AB $31.11 + S&H
If anyone has used/bought from http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com before, please let me know if you had any problems or comments about their products.
Thanks again Spillage!
#6
Whatis UPDATE
Well, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my inquiry concerning the "My first Dodge" post.
I figured out what the loose metal cable with plastic connector on my carburetor is, a transmission kick down cable (Throttle Valve Cable). See Photo.
MoparPartsOverstock Pt# 52104030AB $52.46 + S&H Link to Part
Update on www.MoparPartsOverstock.com - I was trying to call the company for this website, and could never get anyone on the phone. Turns out that this company is in Central Florida. So, I looked up the company on the BBB website. It was not pretty.
I am going to replace all of the vacuum lines on my Truck. I hope this will solve "Wild Vents" problem. I temporally wired the Throttle Valve Cable to the stud on the carburetor. This was suggest by AutoZone Guy. (Thanks a million AutoZone Guy for giving me the advice and wire.)
I will keep ya'll posted on progress of my Truck.
Next up, transmission filter, fluid, and gasket change.
WizKidTX
HAVE ALREADY DONE
Tune-up (Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Cap, Rotor.)
Air Filter Replaced (Fram)
Engine Oil and Filter (Fram / Pensoil)
On list of things needed to do...
Test all Sensors.
Full AC Service (I just added Freon to it last time.)
Back-up lights
Dash top replacement
Instrument Cluster Bezel Replacement
Door seals replacement
Hope weird vent "wild vents" is vacuum leak/no vacuum at all.
(When forced to remove dash) install sound deadening material on firewall and passenger compartment floor. Break down and take apart doors and add sound deadening material there too.
Re-upholster headliner
Re-upholster front/rear seats.
(Under no conditions ever install carpeting. Moving to northeast, carpeting in truck in northeastern USA in non compatible.)
Replace OEM "Radio"
Install aftermarket tachometer. (Every truck should have one.)
Build/Buy Spare Tire Bracket for Truck Bed (Under Bed Holder removed when truck was converted for use with "Goose Neck" trailer.)
I figured out what the loose metal cable with plastic connector on my carburetor is, a transmission kick down cable (Throttle Valve Cable). See Photo.
MoparPartsOverstock Pt# 52104030AB $52.46 + S&H Link to Part
Update on www.MoparPartsOverstock.com - I was trying to call the company for this website, and could never get anyone on the phone. Turns out that this company is in Central Florida. So, I looked up the company on the BBB website. It was not pretty.
I am going to replace all of the vacuum lines on my Truck. I hope this will solve "Wild Vents" problem. I temporally wired the Throttle Valve Cable to the stud on the carburetor. This was suggest by AutoZone Guy. (Thanks a million AutoZone Guy for giving me the advice and wire.)
I will keep ya'll posted on progress of my Truck.
Next up, transmission filter, fluid, and gasket change.
WizKidTX
HAVE ALREADY DONE
Tune-up (Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Cap, Rotor.)
Air Filter Replaced (Fram)
Engine Oil and Filter (Fram / Pensoil)
On list of things needed to do...
Test all Sensors.
Full AC Service (I just added Freon to it last time.)
Back-up lights
Dash top replacement
Instrument Cluster Bezel Replacement
Door seals replacement
Hope weird vent "wild vents" is vacuum leak/no vacuum at all.
(When forced to remove dash) install sound deadening material on firewall and passenger compartment floor. Break down and take apart doors and add sound deadening material there too.
Re-upholster headliner
Re-upholster front/rear seats.
(Under no conditions ever install carpeting. Moving to northeast, carpeting in truck in northeastern USA in non compatible.)
Replace OEM "Radio"
Install aftermarket tachometer. (Every truck should have one.)
Build/Buy Spare Tire Bracket for Truck Bed (Under Bed Holder removed when truck was converted for use with "Goose Neck" trailer.)
Last edited by WizKidTx; 08-20-2016 at 11:11 AM. Reason: Update on MoparPartsOverstock.com
#7
There are a couple check valves that go in the vacuum harness as well, that are rather prone to failure after 15 or more years. NAPA sells some that are easy replacements, the part number is around here somewhere.
LMC Truck is a great resource for various seals and such, though their catalog can sometimes be a tad confusing.
For the tach, you might be able to just get a cluster that has one, and stick it in there, and actually expect it to work.
LMC Truck is a great resource for various seals and such, though their catalog can sometimes be a tad confusing.
For the tach, you might be able to just get a cluster that has one, and stick it in there, and actually expect it to work.
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#8
#9
That cover is just held on by a few screws. It's pretty apparent once you have the cluster out. I think even the 98+ have the trip reset poking out of the lens, so you'll get dust in there no matter what. I run a lot of dirt roads, so I usually have to take mine apart every couple months and dust it down. A damp cloth and a gentle touch works wonders on them.