My original post is here https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-temp-v10.html

8/13/2016
Test Run and Data
2000 Ram 3500 V10 83k miles
Outside temp 90
Est combined weight 15000

Equipment:
Installed trans temp gauge Electric. Sensor in the pan.
Changed fluid and filter. Found no trash in the pan. Fluid was red smelled OK. NO 'parts' in the pan
Trans Temp gauge dial is calibrated with few numbers, base is 130 next a blue area with line above the blue zone then 200.
I est the middle blue - line to be 165 half way between 130 and 200

Installed inline sensor in the top water hose, water temp gauge, digital

10 inch pusher fan on trans cooler
14 inch fan on the AC condenser. Not sure if this really pushes much air though the radiator?

Test pull. Trailer no horses.

Trans temp warmed up to about 160 while on the flat.
Water temp 192 to 197, That did not seem to match the dash gauge. That gauge hangs on the low side of the 2 in 210 value center

Travel 4 miles on slow back roads. OD off
Down long hill to turn around.
Total distance 11 miles

Return trip
OD off
Pull grade 7% with some swing turns. About 3 miles long, then 4 miles flat twisty turns small up/down
On the grade dropped to 2nd gear.
Water temp climbed to 200 to 210 half way up

Trans temp to est 180 went to 200 3/4 way up climb
Water temp to 220
Dash gauge slightly above 210 close to the upper number 0
The temp reading appeared to hold at the speed/rpm
Held RPM around 3000 to 3500. I did not push it any harder.

Crest climb. Water temp dropped to 200. Trans dropped to 180
Stayed at 180 for the 6 miles back to home.
Kept in 2nd for a few miles then to D.

Arrived at home. Used IR hand temp scanner to check assorted readings
Trans pan 170
Line Hot out 180
Line cold back 165

Water temp IR reading at inline sensor 185 ? At thermostat housing 195

Test run without the add-on fans. Wanted worst case data

I plan on installing a 185 thermostat. ??
This rig is mostly used in the spring/summer/fall. The few times I have to use it in the winter
I can block part of the radiator for cold weather

Questions:
Is there a check valve in the cooler lines for this transmission?
Should I add another cooler? Bypass the radiator cooling and replace with a large external cooler?
Not much room to add one in front of the AC rad plus my fans.
Next test run I will run the fans

I read the entire Monty C thread but it is closed nothing after 2010. Assume MC is nol onger posting?

Appears transmission discussions is on this mixed list.

Does all the upgrades suggested in the Monty thread apply to this 47RE trans?
Not sure about the TPS ? assume its on the throttle assembly? Found it, its way in the back of the throttle body
not sure how to remove it? Or not if its working why change it?

GM Governor? How to change? I could not find a link to DIY or video.
I really do not want to get into the trans. No valve body stuff
Will look for video on how to adj the bands.
May be best to try and find a 'good' trans shop around here
Of course the trans appears to working OK

Will remove 1qt of fluid and add the red=stuff.

A long post
rr

 

If the trans is working good, no need to change anything.

The list in the Trans thread was for the 46RE trans, to upgrade it to towing spec. (and reliability) Most of the upgrades for the 46 are already in the 47-8.... They were just MUCH meaner transmissions than the 46. (I rarely see threads about a failed 47-8... and regularly see them with 300K miles or more.... still running fine.)

You might install a slightly larger cooler for the trans, keep the fans. Adding the horses to your trailer IS going to add some significant weight, (depending on how many horses...... they ain't light. ) but, all in all, it looks like things are handling the heat fairly well at this point. Don't think I would bother with the lower temp stat..... as the engine can obviously generate more heat than the cooling system can rid itself of during your test in any event. Heavier duty radiator? Would likely have to be a custom thing..... Might want to compare specs for the various flavors that came in the trucks... see which one is biggest/meanest, and install that one. (if you don't already have it.....)

When is the last time your cooling system was flushed out? That can have a pretty profound effect on its efficiency.

 

Hy Thanks for the fast response. Thus the reason I cannot find any threads on any forum about the R47 Trans.
I pulled the grade 2 times with the 2 horses loaded up. Fly blind only gauge was the dash water temp, it went a little over half way..so I am guessing close to 220?
Based on what I can find the radiator in the V10 with trailer tow options has the 'large' radiator. .
I will run the vin at the local dodge dealer sometime. I do have the OEM window sticker build sheet, so I doubt the vin lookup will tell me anything new.
A big radiator is big $$.
I did flush it one time a month ago...BUT when I drained the coolant for the water temp probe, the coolant was milky not clear green as I see in the top with cap off.
Might flush it again if I decide to put in a lower thermostat, I was thinking 190 vs 180

What do you think about the Evans Coolant? non anti-freeze product no water and no pressure cap. I ran that in a 06 Ford 6.0l POS PSD.. it worked great but the truck was crap..
An additional external trans cooler is not costly, just cutting and pasting the hoses/lines can be a pain
Is there a kit of adapters that would fit on the lines going to the radiator or just cut the lines and add barb fittings to hoses to connect the new cooler? Might be the easy method ?
At least there are no mods needed for the transmission.
thanks

 

The fancy no-water coolants are just a gimmick. They still don't cool the engine any better than the stuff you are currently using. They have a lot of good techno-speak, but, its just a way for them to get your money. That stuff is EXPENSIVE, and, as I recall, you need to change it fairly frequently. That adds up quick.

You DO have the check valve in the trans line running to the lower radiator connection. (at least, it did stock....) getting rid of that might improve flow some. It sure won't hurt.

I think the "Help" section at your local parts store stocks the quick connect fittings and such. You can go that route if you want, or, just cut and splice. Whatever is easier.

 

I looked over my notes, I used the hi$$$ water-less coolant in my 2000 Ford 7.3 PSD. I think it worked, it did run cooler.
Yes was costly, but I had the $$ back in those days

I used that super water additive to improve cooling in the PSD 6.0. Might try it in this engine, not too costly to put in a qt. Many out there Redline and others.

Will opt to change the cooler setup to add another cooler and cut out the internal radiator-transmission cooler.
Guess I will just use cut and splice method, remove the check valve and add the external cooler. Some of the mods look costly with all the high end hoses.

Guess I should do that before I install the 'red-stuff' that is recommended on the MonetyC thread. Appears that does improve the life of the transmission... and some performance
Thanks again for the Dodge advice.. as an old Ford guy this is my first Dodge Truck. So far its quite nice.

 

You dont really want to bypass the cooler in the radiator...... it helps warm the fluid on those frigid winter days...... A thermostatic bypass wouldn't hurt either..... only circulates fluid thru the additional coolers when it is actually needed. Yes, it is possible for your trans fluid to be *too* cold.

 

Ok Will not do that. I wounder does that red-stuff- additive work as written about. Maybe just a qt of that and see how it goes?
Of course cutting the line to remove the check valve is a plus. Once I do that adding a cooler at that time is not a big deal.
Will order that ''red' additive first.
Then search for a nice cooler. I used the finned zig-zag coolers before I guess that style is OK. Or the log style that is in now for the stock trailer tow option.
Need to read up on coolers.
I can always block off the extra add on cooler with a cover in the winter.

I might have other problems.. appears a right side exhaust manifold gasket just let go.. Issues or problems with a 16 yr old truck that sat stored more then driven.

Looks like we have own thread going here.. thanks for all the advice.

 

Never used the Red stuff, but, if MonteC recommended it, then it is certainly safe to use. (and yes, we MISS him here.)