Rusted Brake Lines Replace
My 2000 3500 came from Ill rust belt.
Have many rust issues some I can resolve some I can live with BUT
The rusted brake lines must be replaced.
I have not been able to find a company that makes 'plug and play' replacement line kits for this truck.
So I am going have to do this myself one line at a time.
I read the ez-bend copper nickel is the best - easy to shape and install the double flare.
I found a nice kit of 25 ft of line and a kit of fittings on Amazon
S.U.R.& R.Auto Parts. I would need more then 25 ft to replace all the lines. I will try to take total system measurements for a SWAG.
I would have to buy the nicer tube cutter and good double flare tool.
I might be able to get some of the short lines from the ABS unit to the assorted valves on the frame from the Dodge Dealer or NAPA... or just make new ones
Almost all the lines show rust.
I can get the rubber lines from NAPA. I have the 2 front caliper lines but there appears to be no way I can get the rusted fitting to back out. I might try a Dermal small wire brush and lots of rust buster
If I see the line twist before the fitting brakes free I will stop trying.
So any advice from the experts is appreciated
Have many rust issues some I can resolve some I can live with BUT
The rusted brake lines must be replaced.
I have not been able to find a company that makes 'plug and play' replacement line kits for this truck.
So I am going have to do this myself one line at a time.
I read the ez-bend copper nickel is the best - easy to shape and install the double flare.
I found a nice kit of 25 ft of line and a kit of fittings on Amazon
S.U.R.& R.Auto Parts. I would need more then 25 ft to replace all the lines. I will try to take total system measurements for a SWAG.
I would have to buy the nicer tube cutter and good double flare tool.
I might be able to get some of the short lines from the ABS unit to the assorted valves on the frame from the Dodge Dealer or NAPA... or just make new ones
Almost all the lines show rust.
I can get the rubber lines from NAPA. I have the 2 front caliper lines but there appears to be no way I can get the rusted fitting to back out. I might try a Dermal small wire brush and lots of rust buster
If I see the line twist before the fitting brakes free I will stop trying.
So any advice from the experts is appreciated
Contact Classic Tube (www.classictube.com) - I purchased my pre-bent stainless steel brake lines from them. When I bought them, it took them about 2 - 3 weeks to get them to me after the order is placed. They fit perfectly.
Fine lines i think also has them. A few companies make them but you need to see what they offer for your truck.
https://sstubes.com/products-dodge-trucks
https://sstubes.com/products-dodge-trucks
You don't say where you are located. If you're out of the rust belt, try a wrecking yard. At least some of the 1500 or 2500 lines should work. Not only will you save some cash, you have a better chance of them fitting correctly. Kind of a tough job if you are working with the truck on jack stands.
I did this to an Olds 98 that my stepdad brought into Tucson from Grand Rapids. On his car, only the long length ones had to be replaced.
I did this to an Olds 98 that my stepdad brought into Tucson from Grand Rapids. On his car, only the long length ones had to be replaced.
Thanks for all the replies. Will call Classictube and sstubes. Might look into the junk yards. No major rust issue here in TN.. might get me a few of the bad lines for cheap
Getting a kit or good lines from a junker would be better then trying to make my own
Getting a kit or good lines from a junker would be better then trying to make my own
If you are on a tight budget, the best bet is likely to get a good double flaring tool, a roll of 3/16" brake line and some brake fittings and make the lines that need replacement. The line that tends to rot out the most is the long line that runs from front to back - it inadvertently rots near the gas tank area. I decided to replace all of my lines with pre-bent stainless steel lines, since I plan to keep my truck a good long time and I value my safety when driving a 3/4 ton truck and want to stop quickly without issue.
These trucks are getting old and the metal brake lines don't last forever. A bad brake line also does not give an early warning before it fails. I had an '82 Dodge Ram 150 and was going to use it to do some minor hauling. I got the truck started, hit the brake pedal and was about to put the truck into gear, but noticed that the brake pedal went to the floor. When I walked to the back of the truck, I noticed a huge puddle of brake fluid on the ground from the rear metal brake line rupturing. That experience taught me not to trust old brake lines on a vintage truck.
These trucks are getting old and the metal brake lines don't last forever. A bad brake line also does not give an early warning before it fails. I had an '82 Dodge Ram 150 and was going to use it to do some minor hauling. I got the truck started, hit the brake pedal and was about to put the truck into gear, but noticed that the brake pedal went to the floor. When I walked to the back of the truck, I noticed a huge puddle of brake fluid on the ground from the rear metal brake line rupturing. That experience taught me not to trust old brake lines on a vintage truck.
Last edited by AtomicDog; Aug 27, 2016 at 06:19 PM.
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As mentioned the brake line next to the gas tank is the first to go. I have two 96's and both of them went, One when i was trying to stop coming out of work and the other out of the garage. Luckily i wasn't in traffic. You can get individual pieces also from the links above you don't have to get a complete kit.
I will try for a complete kit. I can get by with plain steel here. At my age and the use the truck will endure, I doubt the basic low cost lines will go bad here. Not much issues with lots of salt on the road and I normally do not drive the truck in the winter or snow etc. 2WD not good in snow ice 
If I cannot get a full kit from one of the above sites, I will get the ezbend nickel copper line kit 25ft with a mess of fittings I mentioned it above - from Amazon $110
This is a high priority now.
I checked the line at fuel tank going to rear, not as rusty as other lines but I cannot see it along the side of the tank. I did spray all the lines with rust inhibitor from Grempler. It binds with the rust and seals over- Worked great on the rusty horse trailer. It might control the line rust some.

If I cannot get a full kit from one of the above sites, I will get the ezbend nickel copper line kit 25ft with a mess of fittings I mentioned it above - from Amazon $110
This is a high priority now.
I checked the line at fuel tank going to rear, not as rusty as other lines but I cannot see it along the side of the tank. I did spray all the lines with rust inhibitor from Grempler. It binds with the rust and seals over- Worked great on the rusty horse trailer. It might control the line rust some.
Well, not much luck with full kit. I can get some but was told by a few of the above makers of line kits, I was out of luck. Best to make my own.
I asked one about the EzBend line he did not like them ?? to soft?
Oh well. So I am getting a kit from Amazon with 25ft of 3/16 and 1/4 with fittings and rock coil guard for both sizes. That will protect the soft lines
Copper Nickel guess its soft but I doubt it will crack or puncture? That's my only option
I have to use 1/4 for the front line off the block on the driver side to the right wheel cly hose. Not sure why it has to be 1/4 when all the other lines ( driver side and rear) are 3/16.
One person told me the best way to remove the fittings was to cut the old line and use a deep socket to get them loose from the assorted tee blocks.
This kit is $85 will be enough to replace all the lines.
I have to start with the 3 lines coming off the ABS pump body on down to the tee blocks for the left side and the rear. Left front line is direct to the hose fitting.
Any reason why I need to use the rear line coupling block ? Its just a 90* block - I should able to route one line from the rear to the ABS pump. 2 less flares to deal with.
Not sure how I will secure the lines most of the clips are rust covered.
Maybe just hose clamp the new lines to the old one if I cannot get the oem clips to work.
Looks like my good deal with this truck is costing me some $ and lots of work. Problem with buying a 16 yr old truck from rust-belt. Low mileage while great - its still a 16 yr old truck
At least I will have an almost new brake system. Replacing the 3 rubber hoses, front rotor and pads.
Rear drums look good to keep - good brake material still on the shoes.
I should make a blog about this truck
_
I asked one about the EzBend line he did not like them ?? to soft?
Oh well. So I am getting a kit from Amazon with 25ft of 3/16 and 1/4 with fittings and rock coil guard for both sizes. That will protect the soft lines
Copper Nickel guess its soft but I doubt it will crack or puncture? That's my only option
I have to use 1/4 for the front line off the block on the driver side to the right wheel cly hose. Not sure why it has to be 1/4 when all the other lines ( driver side and rear) are 3/16.
One person told me the best way to remove the fittings was to cut the old line and use a deep socket to get them loose from the assorted tee blocks.
This kit is $85 will be enough to replace all the lines.
I have to start with the 3 lines coming off the ABS pump body on down to the tee blocks for the left side and the rear. Left front line is direct to the hose fitting.
Any reason why I need to use the rear line coupling block ? Its just a 90* block - I should able to route one line from the rear to the ABS pump. 2 less flares to deal with.
Not sure how I will secure the lines most of the clips are rust covered.
Maybe just hose clamp the new lines to the old one if I cannot get the oem clips to work.
Looks like my good deal with this truck is costing me some $ and lots of work. Problem with buying a 16 yr old truck from rust-belt. Low mileage while great - its still a 16 yr old truck
At least I will have an almost new brake system. Replacing the 3 rubber hoses, front rotor and pads.
Rear drums look good to keep - good brake material still on the shoes.
I should make a blog about this truck
_








