HY
yep planed on doing the save just in case.

 

When I swapped out my old radiator, (180K plus miles....) with just a stock replacement, I noticed that my temps were MUCH more stable, and it didn't climb as high either. I am sure that mine was just full of crap, even after flushing it out, several times..... The EPA got their hands on the various manufacturers of the chemical flush, so, the ingredients got a LOT milder..... I think using something like lime-away, or CLR, would do a better job...... But, don't get caught dumping it on the ground.

 

Quick update
First fix, thermostat. OEM was 195
Replaced with NAPA 190.
Short run, runs about 190 or just under on my inline mechanical gauge.
Dash gauge - I am guessing if the old reading was 195- the gauge was covering half of '2' in the '210' markings
Reads a little over half way from 130 mark and 210. Guessing that would be about correct.
Hope to make a run this Sat with the full rig and horses, that will be the real test.

 

FWIW, I'm using the app Torque on my android phone coupled with an ELM Bluetooth OBD2 adapter to see what my dash temp gauge is seeing. It lets me see what the computer is seeing. I'm running about 188 cruising at 65.

 

renardk764 Thanks but I do not have a smartphone--

Second report post thermostat change.
Loaded up with horses.
On the flat the temp was around 190 188 to 192.. Not hot .
Dash gauge was about correct - wag.

Return trip outside temp 89, Ran in OD until I hit the hill. Temps as above 190 +/_
Out of OD when starting the climb. (2mile) Temp rose to 200 at half way. I ran in D and let the PCM select the gear. I held the RPM at 3000 to 3200. Pulled great. 3/4 way up it gets steeper plus a sweep turn, Temp hit 210. I backed off to 2800 RPM. Not sure what gear it was in 2nd?
At top of grade it hit 220. Trans temp 200.
Within 2 to 3 miles temp dropped to 195 and remained there until I got home. OD was off. Trans shifted as needed.

So it was not 'as hot' as it was with the 195 stat.

I went to the shop today. Mech/owner asked about the fan kicking in - You know I never had heard it roar when it got hot. Mech said it might be bad. But I read these fans almost never go bad??
I got a quote on the water pump replacement. about $205 total. With 2 yr warranty on labor water pump lifetime??
Looks like more work then I want to do.

When I got home I opened the hood watched the fan- not roaring - shut the engine off, the fan free-wheeled. Mech said IF the clutch was engaged it should stop and be tight to turn ..nope easy to spin when hot.

Does not look to difficult to remove and replace. Watched some video and picture of DYI. Can I get it out without removing the rad shroud?

Another 'mod' I did on my old motorhome was pop off the spring - thus the fan clutch is engaged all the time. Might try that - I do not think this fan is engaged - Of course I would not be able to put the spring back in place with out removing it.

Or maybe just buy a new clutch and replace it. Cheaper then having the water pump replaced.
rr

 

Why are you considering replacing the pump? If it ain't leakin', sure sounds like it's doing its job.

Replace the fan clutch. With the motor hot, it shouldn't freewheel...... Don't know if you can get it out without at least removing the upper bolts for the fan shroud.

 

Thats the plan - replace the fan clutch first. I should be able to do this, If I can get the big nut loose..
and yes it does free-wheel when hot
Water pump in not leaking. Concern was the impellers might be corroded away and cutting flow rate.
But the fan should engage..

 

Fan clutch first. See how it does then.

In all reality, your temps really aren't that bad. When things start getting close to 240, I would start getting worried.

And you really shouldn't be towing almost 17,000 lbs of stuff in O/D. That generates a LOT of heat in the trans...... And the radiator needs to deal with that too......

 

Even on the flat at 60 to 65mph.? Runs very cool now. Trans is 165. When I get to the hills or if it is shifting in and out of OD then I cut it off.
Maybe I dont understand how the OD works?
Trans is in 4th with the TC locked? then the OD behind the trans disconnects the drive? to free wheel?
This configuration is not like the Ford 5spd/OD Tow Haul?
The OD unit is outside the trans, behind it right?
So if it increases heat load, how is that a good thing? Why does it increase trans heat.. I would of thought it it run more efficient.
Suppose to save gas.. HA
Right a v10-- 9mpg in OD , 8.5 out of OD ?
and I run 89octane $$$

 

The trans itself is a three speed. (and locking torque converter) O/D is indeed in the overdrive unit, and it is just another gear. .69:1 ratio. So, you have a planetary set in there to bump the RPM. That act generates a fair bit of heat. Evidently, your trans cooling solution handles it fairly well, and god knows the V-10 has plenty of torque, even at lower RPM, to handle the workload..... Maybe it isn't absolutely necessary, in your case.... but, from the factory, they recommend you turn off O/D when towing.