Continuing the saga with my 2000 Ram 3500 V-10 47re auto 2wd

So this weekend we went on a 3 hr run to camp with the horses.

I had just completed the second coolant change/flush

Last week we went on a short run to ride. Return trip up the 4 mile grade 7%+
I ran in 2nd, kept throttle/rpm at 2000 to 2500. Got hot. Dash gauge normal running reads just on the '2' of '210' On this trip it went to '0' of '210'
I had a digital water temp gauge installed in a Tee inline adapter in the upper radiator. The gauge went to 225. Nohting boiled over.
Arrived home still hot running 200 to 205.
Got out and felt the radiator on the driver's side-- HOT
Then felt the fins on the LEFT side cool to the touch- warm.

I assume the entire radiator should be HOT?
I flushed the system again. I had a bottle of Prestone Rad flush in the coolant for the past week, so I expected a good cleaning. I drained the system. The fluid was off green sort of dirty.
Flushed till running clear out of the radiator. LOTS of dirty water over-flowed. Pulled the the lower rad hose, ran water though the rad till clear. Connected lower hose filled with water ran engine until it heated to over 195.
Drained again - removed lower hose. Water can out like brown dirt? Connected the lower hose put the water hose in the fill and ran the engine. Water came out of the top of the rad was dirty. Ran till clear.
Pulled the lower hose again drain engine it was clear.
I replaced the electric temp sensor and gauge with the old school analog mechanical gauge
Filled with 50/50, ran until hot 195.
Topped of next day.
Went on the above trip Sunday.
Normal running flat temp 190 to 195. I thought that was high
On longer climbs to went to 200-205. Not good?

Weighed the rig 16800 total combined - truck horse trailer 2 horses us2 dogs and 'stuff' surly not over loaded.

Return trip today. Ran hot 195 to 205.
On the long pull to home -running in 2nd even throttle to keep rpm @ 2500. Temp went to 230. Dash gauge past the '0' of '210' I backed off to under 2000 rpm and made the climb at 35mph.
Once home I checked the rad temp differential right side HOT HOT, left side warm.. hand check on the fins and top of rad.

There is something wrong here?? like a clogged rad?
I dont think this condition is normal.

My aux fans did not help much. Trans was running under 185 all the way except on the grade. Went close to 200.. Heck HOT water heating the trans cooler?

So I think I am going to pull the rad and replace with a new one??

Few other issues, I am running one step hotter plugs and 89 octane gas.. I have no knocking like I had with stock plugs and 87 octane
That should not make it run hot? Right??

I also did not notice the fan clutch engage to speed up the fan. ?

Long post but I wanted to explain the problem.

 

The radiator is doing its job. Its a cross flow system, so, you would expect the passenger side of the radiator to be cooler than the inlet side. Your thermostat is also probably 195 degrees, so, running right around 200 or so is just fine.

Given that you have a V-10, which has GOBS of torque pretty much right off idle, I would be more tempted to just leave O/D off while towing horses, regardless of grade. Don't worry about dropping to second. If the PCM thinks that is where it needs to be, that is where it will go.

What was outside temp during that trip?? If it was 90+, I think what you are seeing is perfectly normal. If the radiator still makes ya nervous, you have a couple choices, yank it, and have it professionally cleaned, (radiator shop) or, replace it. Cost is likely to be very similar....... So, call around, see what prices look like, take it from there.

 

Thanks HY
Sort of very concerned with the 'dirt' that flushed out, and it really got way hot today. Ambient temp was 85. Not really hot
Crossflow hot on one side cooler on the other.. would have expected the same temp ..but it makes sense. My son a good mech, was not sure why it is this way.
He suggested IF I pull it, to replace the water pump and the thermostat to a 190.

I run with the OD on while on the flat switch off when I get into hills or if it shuttles to much in and out of OD. Lugs down around 2000 rpm and I have to mash the throttle to get a downshift.
I have to read about how to set the throttle position shift cable to get it to down shift sooner with less travel.

Been reading about the plugs I might have a too hot a plug. I have to look in the log book to see what I put in, I know it was one heat range hotter then stock.
Looks like the autolite 5224 is oem. Was reading on NKG site hot plugs can cause the engine to run hotter..
Going to call around for rad cleaning.. New is around $200.
I dont recall heating up like this when I first got this. It got hot over 210 on the dash gauge- so I added the inline temp gauge , now I can see it really is getting hot. Sort of too much information
This truck is for one purpose to pull the horse trailer etc..not a day driver. It sits hooked up most of the time. It needs to run cool.

 

I think you're on the right track with the dirty coolant. There is sediment lurking in there somewhere and it is not giving up. It's going to be worth having the system flushed properly at a good radiator shop. The flush you get at the parts store doesn't work that well. I had the same dirty coolant issue with an 87 gmc 2500 I had. I flushed and flushed with the prestone super flush but it never really cleaned the block out. The coolant always turned brown after a while and the temps would climb right back up when towing. After having it done at a shop I never had another issue with overheating.

I would also go back to the stock heat range plug for now. Do you have the death flash on yours? I have the hemifever sct tuner running the 89 tune with 92 octane, 180 thermostat, and mine pulls like a bear. I don't pull quite as heavy as you, around 12-13k and I usually see temps right around 200 on hot days.

 

Jimtf
Well I cannot find a radiator repair shop close buy. Most are in Knoxville and not recommended by a few shops around here.
So going to order a new one from NAPA like big$$ 250 but it will be new no junk in it
This truck sat allot, suspect they did not change the coolant all that much. Has to be corrosion or stuff they added over the years.
Decided to NOT change the water pump ..looks like a real big deal. doubt it is a problem with only 83k
Changing the thermostat to a 190- NAPA truck style.
When its all open I will flush the block thought the thermostat housing out the bottom hose.
My plugs are Autolite 5224.. that is suppose to be correct but one heat range above stock.
But Dodge calls for QC9MC4 which is a Champion 435. Might change later
What plug you running in yours?
Not sure about the Death Flash? Dodge shop ran the VIN says it is up to date what ever that means. No PCM flash recommended.
Had SCT tuner for my Ford PSD and later a V10
I do not have the funds to get one for this truck.
Have to look up hemifever and see what he offers.

 

look up your radiator on radiator.com and see what their price is. You get a lifetime warranty there!!! You won't get that at napa. I had bad luck with the ones i got at local parts stores. Mine is a 5.9 though.

 

Before you go out and buy a new radiator, take the old one out and give it a good flush with water. Pressure wash the outside of the tubes, too. Use the fan setting on the pressure washer. Do you have the stock fan shroud on the truck? That's an integral part of the cooling system. Look into getting a 3 row radiator, if such exists.

How are the radiator hoses. If one's collapsing, you have a coolant circulation problem. I think I'd want a look at them and the water pump to see that everything is on the up and up.

Don't really know anything of the history of your truck. But if it's been a while, maybe it's time for plugs, wires, cap and rotor. For what you're doing, you want the engine to be as close to 100% as possible.

 

Moparite- Thannks will check out the online source. Only problem is cost to return if its the wrong size or have a problem.
NAPA has a year warranty..I think. I did not order it yet.

 

Six of one, half-dozen of the other.... You can still keep the old radiator, so if there are issues with the new one, you have the back up in the barn.

 

Brian IN Tucson
Been posting way to much here on the forums
Into post here
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/new-mem...am-3500-a.html


Then I have the Rusty Brake Lines Post on this section.
Truck is nice - it was a great deal 83k miles on it. I thought there was nothing wrong BUT have a few issues. haha
Like someone above said Gen2 trucks are old with issues. 16 yr old truck that sat in a barn most of its first life.
Once I get the current problems fixed It should be good to last me a long time.
Its a V10 so it has a 3 row radiator.
Hoses are good not collapsed. Stock fan shroud.
If I pull this I may as well just replace. I have sprayed the fins from the back side all appears clean. Sprayed the front though the AC coil. Water went though both sets of fins.
Getting the rad professional flushed and reworked does not appear to be an option for me. I could pull it but I could not flush the inside. I think the problem is this dirt? in the rad or the engine.
I am going to install the 190 thermostat this weekend. Maybe I will flush the entire system again and a good flush of the block though the stat port.

Of course I have to install $20 more of coolant. Then IF it still gets hot I have to do it again with the rad replacement. Maybe just drain down low enough to install the new stat and see how that goes.

All new plugs and wires. New hi flow KN air filter. Not sure how that affects the engine, but many drivers do install that aftermarket air filter.
Not sure I really want to tackle the water pump.
But I could have rusted pump impeller fins??

Some pictures
https://goo.gl/photos/YEuqLuS5wi8e6TJHA
https://goo.gl/photos/qVJUCTemkND4qNvh7